Enough with the screaming

Do you remember when you were a kid and someone would start with that insipid song: I scream, you scream, we all scream for ice cream? Believe it or not, it’s coming up on 100 years old now. The first recording came out in 1927 by a band named Fred Waring and his Pennsylvanians. And, yes, It’s the same Warings as Waring blenders. So, they had a stake in the ice cream trade (milkshakes). No one remembers the original sing, just the refrain. And, it keeps droning on and on. Well, Enough with the screaming. It’s national ice cream day. So, you’re going to get your frozen treat.

And, since it’s national ice cream day, you don’t have to get your tonsils out or win a tournament. You’re getting that sugary frozen dessert any time you want it. It’s a phenomenon that swept the country and still gets people lining up in huge crowds just to have a lick. The ice cream industry produces around 1.4 billion gallons per year. And, that number probably doesn’t include smaller artisan producers and home made ice cream. Plus, there are sorbets and sherbets that probably don’t make those stats.

We also have a robust frozen yogurt industry as well. Of course, that industry has all kinds of peaks and valleys. In the 1970’s we had Frogurt. That kind of disappeared after a few years. Then, they tried to re-market it in the 2010’s as a healthier alternative to ice cream. It was popular for a few years. But, sales have waned in recent years. Ice cream is still king by a margin of 10 to 1.

How did we get to the point of Enough with the screaming?

One would think that ice cream is a recent invention, since we didn’t have freezers commercially available until the 1920’s. And, mass production didn’t start until the 1940’s. The first gas assisted Freezer dates to around 1857. But, frozen desserts date back to 550 BC in Persia. And, there are many examples throughout history. The freezing technique of adding salt to ice to create a colder freezing temperature dates to around the 16th century in Europe. To our modern sensibilities, this all seems pretty crude. We are spoiled by temperature controls on demand using technology that didn’t exist. Electric refrigerators began replacing ice boxes in the 1930’s and 40’s. So, it stretches the imagination to figure out how ice cream was made and stored before the convenience of this marvel. It wouldn’t be “iced” cream for long.

Ice cream was a luxury until around the 19th century. Making it was arduous. You had to harvest ice and snow in the winter; and, store it in holes or specially designed houses insulated with straw. Then, you would crush some ice with salt to bring it below the freezing point, place it in the outer receptacle of a “freezer pot”. The cream mixture goes into an inner receptacle, where you churn it until it sets up. Today, you can still get variations on that theme. But, we have machines, big and small that can do all that without any of the “labor”. You can get a tabletop machine for your home for less than $100. They even have attachments for your Kitchenaid mixer. So, while it’s easy and fun to go out for ice cream. You can make your own for a fraction of the price.

What’s the difference

When you go to a store or ice cream stand, you encounter a wide variety of ice creams. Some are high quality (with high price tags), and some are mediocre. The difference is usually the quality of ingredients. But, the biggest factor is the butterfat content. The more fat, the richer, smoother, and tastier the ice cream. There is a whole science to determine the flavor components affected by fat. It lubricates the mouth for a smoother feel, accents and carries flavors, and creates a density and richness. So, naturally, one would think to use the highest fat cream you can get.

This makes sense. Butter is solid. Cream is liquid. Butter is around 80% fat. Heavy cream is usually about 30 to 40%. And, Light cream is around 16 to 20%. Now, think of what happens to these 3 when they are frozen. You can’t even cut frozen butter. But, creams are a different story. Controlled studies show that an optimal fat content of around14 to 15% creates the most desirable ice cream. So, most recipes call for a mixture of heavy cream and milk to get the right consistency. But, it’s really up to your personal taste buds.

And, don’t forget gelato. This is the Italian version of ice cream. While they both have similar attributes, gelato is usually lower in fat. So, the flavors shine through more. That’s why when you go to a gelato bar, you see a rainbow of colors. While most ice creams have 14 to 25% fat. Gelato comes in around 4 to 9%. Another potential difference is egg yolks. Most gelatos don’t have any. While some (not all) ice creams do.

So, enough with the screaming, let’s get to the ice cream.

Whether you like “plain” vanilla, chocolate, or a wide variety of flavors, ice cream is a worldwide favorite treat. We posted a chocolate ice cream recipe a while ago (see it here). But, don’t forget ice cream makes a great base for a variety of desserts. There is the classic Peach Melba. And, there are countless variations on the Sundae with all kinds of mix-ins. Of course, there is the simple cone or dish as well. This lets the ice cream stand on its own. Then there are ice cream cakes, pies, bonbons, novelties, popsicles, fudgesickles, eskimo pies, sandwiches, and more. Let’s not forget baked Alaska either.

Even “plain” ice cream poses endless possibilities. You can substitute cow’s milk for other ingredients like goat milk or vegan versions using things like oat, soy, cashew, or almond milk. And, there are sorbets and sherbets (non dairy sugar and water based frozen desserts usually made with fruits). You can make ice cream in all kinds of flavors. While most people go for vanilla and chocolate based flavors and consider ice cream a dessert, you can get more savory. There is an ice cream shop on Cape Cod that makes a lobster ice cream. And, I’ve had foie gras ice cream, as well as avocado. While these may sound odd, they are high fat ingredients. So, they actually work well. Although, the flavors may be intense. If you really want to hear the kids scream, try feeding them these.

Don’t worry. You don’t have to go that far with exotic flavors. However, do feel free to experiment. matcha, ginger, mango, coconut, and more are a delightful departure from the norm. Or you can stick with things like seasonal fruits. No matter what, it’s your taste and sense of adventure. Play with your food.

To that “sweet” end…

We said: enough with the screaming. And, this time we mean it. You can go to your local ice creamery and choose from a wide variety of flavors. Or, you can go to DQ. Howard Johnsons started with one flavor in Blazing saddles. And, expanded to 28. Of course, Baskin Robins had to outdo him with 31 (You bastards). Today, you can go into the frozen food aisle of your local supermarket and find hundreds of varieties of ice cream based desserts. So, there’s no excuse for not celebrating national ice cream day.

Of course, if none of those hundreds of options feel right or wholesome, we are here to help. Remember that $69 ice cream machine at Amazon or Kohl’s. Well, if you don’t have one, run out and get one. Then follow the manufacturer’s directions. Some require you to pre-chill the bowl in your freezer. But, some have their own freezer built in (these ones are usually more expensive). Then you can use our recipe today or make your own variation.

We decided to go just a little off the beaten path today with what may sound like an odd ice cream flavor. But, it actually works. Today, we bring you a beet root ice cream. Some people think of beets as a disgusting vegetable. This is unfair. They are actually very sweet. In fact, some sugars are actually made from beets. Our palates have become accustomed to cane sugar. But, during the 19th century, beet sugar was very popular across Europe. And, isn’t ice cream supposed to be sweet? So, enough with the screaming: eat your ice cream! And, as Blondie sang, eat to the beet!

White Chocolate Apple and Beetroot Ice Cream

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 35 minutes mins

Cook Time 35 minutes mins

Freezing time 2 hours hrs

Course Dessert

Cuisine American, French, Italian

Equipment

• Ice cream machine

Ingredients

  

• 8 oz Whole fresh beetroot
• 1 Cup Peeled and Cored apple, cut into 1/4 inch dice
• 2 Tbsp Orange zest
• 1 Cup Orange juice
• 1 Cup Chopped White chocolate
• 4 Cups heavy Cream
• 4 Large Egg Yolks
• 1 Cup Sugar
• 1/4 tsp Kosher or sea salt
• 1 to 3 cups Water to boil the beats
• Olive oil to saute the apples

Instructions

 

• Cut the beets into 1 to 2 inch chunks. Put in a pot with orange juice and water. Boil until soft. and most of the liquid has evaporated. If they aren't soft enough, add more water and continue cooking. But, in the end, you want just a coating of liquid.
• Puree the beets until smooth. Refrigerate until needed.
• Heat a little oil in a saute pan over medium high heat. Saute the apples until lightly browned and softened, but not mushy. Refrigerate until needed.
• Heat cream, white chocolate and sugar in a heavy pot over medium heat until it comes to a simmer. Whisk to melt the chocolate and sugar. Put the eggs in a bowl. Whisk in a couple tablespoons of the hot cream to temper the eggs. Then slowly add in the rest, whisking continuously. Return to the pot over low heat and continue stirring until it slightly thickens. Be careful not to "scramble" the eggs. Transfer it back to a mixing bowl and set that bowl into an ice bath. Whisk it until it cools completely.
• Whisk in the beets and orange zest. Then fold in the Apples.
• Transfer the ingredients to your prepared ice cream machine. Then follow manufacturer's instructions. You will see it thicken in the bowl. Depending on the machine, you may be able to serve right from the machine, or it may require additional time in the freezer.

Keyword apple, Beetroot, Custard, Frozen, Ice Cream, Sweet, White Chocolate