Don’t lose your Tempranillo
In 1979, the Band XTC recorded a song that ended up on the B side of a single from the Black Sea Album called “Don’t lose your temper”. And, now that earwig is stuck in my head, and probably yours once you listen to it. The chorus pleads “don’t lose your temper because I’d hate you to grow mild”. Well, today is Tempranillo day; so we say, Don’t lose your tempranillo. This is a true red wine (even though the skins are black), known by many names. It’s so red, that even the leaves turn red (which reminds me of another XTC song: Red).
You may be familiar with Rioja. The names Tinto del toro, Tinto fina, and Tinto del pais apply as well. As the names may reveal: 80% of tempranillo comes from Spain. But, Portugal, Mexico, Argentina, Australia, and The USA are all on board with this wild, not mild wine.
Professionals describe it as alternating between flavors of leather and cherry (see I told you it was wild). A medium to heavy variety, you can put it up against Cabernet Sauvignon , Sangiovese, or Merlot any day of the week. Think of it as the Spanish version of a classic red (as opposed to its French or Italian competitors). Like Merlot, it can range from an opaque medium body to heavy fruit forward taste sensation. Similarly, while it may stand as it’s own variety, Tempranillo (like Merlot) is often part of a blend. Grenache, Cabernet, and even Merlot pair nicely with it.
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Don’t lose your tempranillo to the Summer nights
Being fully entrenched in Autumn, that shouldn’t be a danger. But, Tempranillo has strayed from it’s original flavor profile. If you want a true, old world, style of tempranillo, your best bet is a version from Spain. This is the drier variation. The difference, as with many other wines is in the climate the grapes are grown. Grapes from mountain regions with a cooler climate are less sweet. This results in lower alcohol and a dry finish. Some varieties, especially those grown in The United states and other warmer regions, tend to be sweeter, and boast more fruit. While purists defer to the dryness as superior, it’s more about balance. You want tannins and acidity. But, you also need to taste the complex fruits, herbs, and Earth.
The proliferation of multiple variations of the same grape make it more difficult to choose the right wine, simply because you don’t know which style you’re getting until you either try it or get a professional opinion. Now you know the importance of wine “experts”. If you want a dry, Earthy wine vs a sweet, fruity wine, your best bet is to read reviews, and/or talk to your local wine expert. Most liquor stores have a wine guy on staff to point you in the right direction. So, even if you feel a little lost, you don’t have to lose your Tempranillo. And, don’t forget, Tempranillo is one of the major varieties blended in everyone’s favorite dessert wine: Port. So put that in your glass and drink it.
A wine by any other name
As mentioned above, Tempranillo can be confusing to buy. It suffers from the same stumbling blocks as Merlot. Both tend to find themselves as a blending wine, as opposed to the main feature. And, the effects of climate result in vastly different wines. Coincidentally, Merlot is the 3rd most grown wine grape, and tempranillo is 4th. And, when you look at their flavor profiles, you see a lot of similarities. But, unlike Merlot, Tempranillo tends to be more finicky about where it grows. It thrives in cooler, mountainous regions. And, it has issues in warmer areas. When it first came to California, growers thought it was an inferior wine, and only used it as a blending grape for “jug wine”. But, when they planted it in more mountainous regions, they discovered its potential. Now, it grows from Texas all the way through to Washington state.
But, the struggle of the grape doesn’t end with finding the right home. When it first came to the USA, they called it Valdepeñas. That’s just one name change. People used to think it was related to Pinot Noir. But, in 2012, geneticists dispatched that rumor by showing it was a “cross between Albillo Mayor and a forgotten grape variety called Benedicto.“
What do you call it?
According to Wikipedia, here is a partial list of names for Tempranillo:
Albillo Negro, Aldepenas, Aragon, Aragones, Aragonez, Aragonez 51, Aragonez da Ferra, Aragonez de Elvas, Araúxa, Arganda, Arinto Tinto, Cencibel, Cencibera, Chinchillana, Chinchillano, Chinchilyano, Cupani, De Por Aca, Escobera, Garnacho Fono, Grenache de Logrono, Jacibera, Jacibiera, Jacivera, Juan Garcia, Negra de Mesa, Negretto, Ojo de Liebre, Olho de Lebre, Pinuela, Sensibel, Tempranilla, Tempranillo de la Rioja, Tempranillo de Perralta, Tempranillo de Rioja, Tempranillo de Rioza, Tempranillo Rioja, Tinta Aragones, Tinta Corriente, Tinta de Madrid, Tinta de Santiago, Tinta de Toro, Tinta do Inacio, Tinta do Pais, Tinta Fina, Tinta Madrid, Tinta Monteira, Tinta Monteiro, Tinta Roris, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Santiago, Tinto Aragon, Tinto Aragonez, Tinto de la Ribera, Tinto de Madrid, Tinto de Rioja, Tinto de Toro, Tinto del Pais, Tinto del Toro, Tinto Fino, Tinto Madrid, Tinto Pais, Tinto Ribiera, Tinto Riojano, Ull de Liebre, Ull de Llebre, Valdepenas, Verdiell, Vid de Aranda
No wonder it’s so hard to find a good Tempranillo. You may have unknowingly been drinking it in a blend or under a different name. This further adds to the confusion of what it is and isn’t. Just remember, it often ends up in Port. So, put that in your glass and drink it.
Don’t lose it
The double whammy of variable characteristics and a proliferation of diverse names makes classifying Tempranillo an onerous task. But, that makes it even more fun to pursue. Our song, Don’t lose your Tempranillo alternates between I love you when your wild and I’d hate you to grow mild. Maybe it doesn’t want to be classified or stereotyped, like the Descendents sang in 1982. When something is exceptional, unpredictable, and individualistic, people say “It’s punk rock” as a compliment. Well, Tempranillo is Punk rock! Punks are like the honey badger, They don’t give a sh–. And, neither does Tempranillo. It just says, drink me. And, you should. Whether it’s a fruity, viscous wine, or a ruddy, tannin laden Rioja type, you won’t be disappointed. And, if you’re a vintner, just use it, don’t lose it. If it doesn’t develop the way you wanted, it will surely work well in a blend.
If you want a traditional Tempranillo, that you know what to expect, The Spanish Wine governing authority has a few classifications to help with your choice.
- Vin Joven: Young varietal that is best when consumed at the young age. These are lighter, drinkable variations that drink well in warmer weather.
- Crianza: Aged 2 years, with at least 6 months in oak
- Reserva: Aged 3 years with 1 year in oak
- Gran Reserva: Only the best year vintages end up in this category. For Tempranillo: 2010, 2016, and 2019 were exceptional years. So, to get this classification, start with wine from those years, age it for 5 years with at least 18 to 30 months in oak.
Don’t lose your tempranillo over Tapas
So, now that you know a bit about Tempranillo, Try to get into a Spanish state of Mind: Picture the Countryside of Barcelona, Madrid, Granada, Seville, and think of the tastes and Ambiance of this old world country (the same country responsible for the “discovery” of the New World. The favorite meal past time in the country is Tapas. Variations of Tapas have also gained popularity here in the USA too. While there are some traditional dishes, tapas is more of a concept that is adaptable to the local palate. At heart, it’s small plates intended for sharing.
Things like stuffed and/or fried Sardines, White Anchovies, garlic Shrimp, Empanadas, Croquettes, bacon wrapped stuffed dates, meatballs, flatbreads, and more characterize a tapas table. Think of it like a meal comprised of appetizers or Hors d’oeuvres. In addition to experiencing multiple taste, texture, and aromas, it’s a social endeavor. Tapas are meant to be shared. This can be 2 people or more. It can be an intimate date night or a gathering of close friends. And, variety is key. So, keep the portions small.
We have a few ideas here. But, feel free to branch out. If you have a tapas restaurant nearby (and the financial means), let someone else do the cooking. Doing Tapas at home requires a good amount of work since you want at least 4 or 5 items. So, at 20 minutes to an hour per item, this can take up a good portion of your day. But, you can make some things ahead of time. And, a charcuterie and cheese board is always a relatively easy part of any tapas offering.
SALUD!
Torta Espanola With spicy tomato Romesco Sauce
Ingredients
- 6 Large Eggs
- 1 Cup heavy Cream
- Kosher Salt and pepper to Taste
- Olive Oil For Cooking
- 1 Cup Diced Spanish Onion
- 1 Cup 1/2 Inch Cubed Yukon Gold Potatoes
- 1 Tbsp Chopped parsley
- 1 Tsp Chopped Fresh Thyme
- For Sauce:
- 1/2 Cup Diced Spanish Onion
- 1 Tsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 1 Cup Home roasted Fresh Red Bell Pepper (may Substitute Canned or jarred)
- 1 Cup Home roasted Fresh Tomatoes in Olive oil (Also, jarred versions acceptable for time sake)
- olive oil
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 1/2 cup Red Wine
- 2 Tbsp Sliced or slivered Almonds
- 1 Cup vegetable stock
- 1/2 Tsp Hot sauce
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh Oregano
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh parsley
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 400
- Heat a cast iron skillet over high heat. Saute the onion and potato, stirring frequently until they are soft. Meanwhile, in a mixing bowl, beat the eggs and mix with the cream, salt, pepper and herbs. Add a little more olive oil to the onions and potatoes. Then fold the egg mixture into the pan, mix everything well. Then, place the pan in the oven. Allow it to cook for about 10 to 15 minutes. Check the consistency. It should be firm to the touch. If not, give it a little more time.
- When the Torta is cooked, Remove from the oven. Allow it to cool for at least 5 minutes. Cut wedges and serve with heated Romesco sauce.
Notes
Truffled Goat Cheese and Ramps Flan with Morel and Asparagus Salad
Ingredients
- olive oil for cooking
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- For Flan
- 1 Cup Fresh Ramps, Cleaned and trimmed, plus a few extra for garnish
- 1/2 tsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 12 Each Large Egg yolks
- 3 cups Heavy Cream
- 1 Cup Crumbled Goat Cheese
- 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Thyme
- Truffle oil and truffle shavings to taste
- For Salad:
- 4 Oz baby greens, arugula or whatever is freshest
- 8 Oz Fresh Morel Mushrooms
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh garlic Scapes
- 1 Bunch Asparagus
- 1/2 Cup Sliced Fresh Spring Onions
- 1 Cup White Wine
- 1 Medium Lemon: Zest and Juice only
- 1/2 Cup Olive Oil
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Marjoram
- Grape tomatoes for garnish
- Extra fresh herbs for garnish
Instructions
- Soak the morels in cool water for about 20 minutes to remove any dirt. Remove from the water, and soak a second time. They tend to get a lot of grit inside the gills.
- Preheat oven to 375
- Heat a little olive oil in a saute pan over medium high heat. Saute ramps and garlic, stirring as needed. Cook until translucent. Allow to cool.
- Whisk eggs until beaten smooth. Continue whisking in the cream, salt, pepper, and Thyme. Add in about a tablespoon of truffle shavings and a splash of truffle oil. Fold in the goat cheese.
- Spray individual ramekins or foil cups with pan spray. Fill each evenly with the flan mixture. Place on a sheet pan and bake in the oven about 30 minutes. You want them firm, but not too puffed up. If the center is still a bit runny, cook a little longer. 10 minutes should do.
- Heat a little olive oil in a pan. Saute the garlic scapes and spring onions until soft. Add in the mushrooms and cook until soft. Then add the wine and cook until it evaporates. You want it to create a glaze on the mushrooms and onions. Add in the asparagus, stir, and remove from heat. The residual heat will cook the asparagus. You want it al dente.
- Grill extra ramps for garnish if desired.
- Whisk the lemon juice, zest, oil, salt, pepper, and marjoram together. Toss the greens, asparagus, mushrooms etc in. Mix well.
- Invert the flans onto individual plates. Garnish with the salad, tomatoes, and grilled ramps.
Spicy Pork and Pumpkin Empanada
Ingredients
- For Dough
- 3 Cups Flour
- 1/2 tsp Sea salt
- 5 Tbsp Melted coconut oil
- 1 Cup Water
- For Filling:
- 1 Lb Pork loin Cut into 1/4 inch thick slices
- 2 tsp Ground Cumin
- 2 tsp Chili Powder
- 1 tsp Ground corriander
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- 1/4 Cup Seasoned rice wine vinegar
- 1 Tbsp Soy sauce
- 1 Tbsp Sugar
- 1/4 Cup Diced Sweet Onion
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh Garlic
- 2 Tbsp Chopped Scallion
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Cilantro
- Kosher or sea salt and ground black pepper
- 4 Oz Fresh Pumpkin or squash
- Shredded jack Cheese (optional)
- Oil to fry
- For Salsa:
- 1 Cup Diced Fresh Tomato
- 1/4 Cup Diced Sweet Onion
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Cilantro
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Chili (Jalapeno or other)
- Juice of 2 Key Limes
- 1 tsp Ground Cumin
- 1/2 tsp Ground Coriander
- 1/2 tsp Chili Powder
- Flaked Sea Salt and Cracked Black Pepper
Instructions
- make the salsa: Chop and fold all ingredients together. Put in the fridge until service time. If you are making ahead, hold back on the avocado until you are less than an hour from service, then fold it in.
- Make the dough. Put the flour and salt in a food processor and pulse. Add the Oil, Pulse again. Then drizzle in the water until a solid dough forms. It should pull away from the sides easily. Don't make it too wet. Tightly cover the dough and set aside to rest.
- Cook the Pork: make a dry rub using cumin, chili powder, coriander, salt, and pepper. Reserve a teaspoon to mix in with filling later. Heat a little oil in a saute pan over medium high heat. Sear the pork about 2 to 3 minutes per side. You want a nice color on each side. Remove the pork from the pan. Then add the rice vinegar, sugar and soy sauce. Cook this down until the liquid becomes a glaze. Remove from the heat. Dice the pork into small pieces and toss it in the glaze, coating evenly.
- Make the filling: Saute the onion and garlic in a little oil (Avocado preferably). Add the Pumpkin. Cook until tender, stirring as needed. Add a little water to keep moist. Add in the pork and remove from heat. You should have a filling that will stick together.
- Cut the dough into 1 inch Balls. Press them flat in a tortilla press, by hand, or with a rolling pin. You want them very flat. Place a dollop the bean filling in the middle of each dough round. Fold the dough over the filling to create a half moon shape. Crimp the edges by folding them in on each other or use a fork. Make sure they are well sealed so the filling doesn't escape when cooking.
- Heat the oil in a heavy pan or fryer to around 350 degrees. Carefully place the empanadas in the oil. Cook until golden brown. If they are cooking too quickly the dough will brown before cooking through. Turn down the heat a little if needed.
- Serve hot with the salsa
Turbinado and Anise Crusted Sea Bass with Pernod Scented Fennel Relish
Ingredients
- 4 Each 6 ounce Boneless, skinless Sea Bass fillets
- 1/4 Cup Turbinado Sugar
- 2 Tbsp Anise Seed
- 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Thyme
- 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Chives
- Kosher Salt and Pepper to taste
- olive oil for cooking
- For Relish
- 1 Cup Shaved Fresh Fennel, plus chop some of the fronds to add at the end.
- 1/4 Cup Shave Fresh Leeks
- 1 Tbsp Fresh Chopped Ginger
- 1 Tsp Sugar
- 1 Oz pernod
- 1/8 cup 1 inch long thin slices of red pepper
- 1 Oz Lemon Juice
Instructions
- Mix The turbinado sugar, anise, herbs and salt to make a rub for the fish. Dredge each fish filet in this mix, coating both sides evenly. Allow to sit for about an hour so the flavors penetrate.
- make the relish: Heat olive oil over medium high heat in a saute pan. Lightly saute the leeks and ginger until translucent. Add the sugar and melt. Add in the Fennel and cook until al dente. Then de-glaze with pernod. Add the lemon juice. Then cut the heat and fold in the peppers, salt, pepper, and fennel frond for color. Set aside.
- Preheat oven to 350.
- Heat Oil in a saute pan over medium high heat. Add in the fish (top side down). Brown one side. Then flip to the other to create a bottom crust. Spray a sheet pan with pan spray and transfer the fish to the pan and put in the oven. Cook about 10 minutes until it is fully cooked. If you don't feel comfortable with knowing when it is done, use a meat thermometer. Stick it into the center of the fish. You want an internal temperature of 145 degrees.
- Serve the fish hot, top with the relish (make sure the juices drip over the fish. Accompany with fresh roasted or sauteed vegetables and a starch like our truffled latkes.
Candied Lemon, Berry, and Ricotta Grilled Flatbread pizza
Ingredients
- 4 Cups Typo 00 Flour
- 2 Cups Warm Water
- 1 Tbsp Yeast
- 2 Tbsp Turbinado Sugar
- 1 tsp Kosher or sea salt
- 2 Tbsp Olive oil
- For the lemon
- 2 Medium Lemons
- 2 Cups Water
- 1/2 Cup Sugar
- For berries
- 2 Cups Assorted Fresh Berries (Sliced strawberry, Blueberry, Raspberry, Blackberry)
- 2 Tbsp Sugar
- 1 Tbsp Grand Marnier
- 2 Cups Ricotta Cheese
- 2 Tbsp Chiffonade Fresh Basil Leaves
- 2 Tbsp Honey
- Large Grain Kosher or sea Salt like Malden's sea salt for sprinkling (optional)
Instructions
- Make the pizza Dough: Mix the water, yeast, and turbinado Sugar. Let it "bloom" for about 10 minutes until it becomes frothy. Add flour, oil, and salt and mix with a dough hook until a firm dough is achieved. Oil the dough and allow to rise in a bowl. Then punch down the dough and form into 2 or 4 balls. Set aside. This can be refrigerated or frozen until needed or just keep out if using immediately.
- Use a zesting tool or peeler to make thin julienne strips of zest from the lemons. Mix the zest, the juice from the lemons, water, and sugar in a pot. Cook over medium heat until the zest is soft and the juice becomes a syrup. Allow to cool.
- Fold a little of the lemon syrup, honey, and basil into the ricotta. Taste it. Add more sweetener if you want it sweeter or less if not.
- Slice the Strawberries. Mix all the berries with sugar and grand Marnier. Let it macerate for about 10 to 30 minutes.
- Preheat a grille to high heat. Also, preheat oven to 400.
- If pizza dough was refrigerated, allow it to return to room temperature and rise slightly. Otherwise, it should be good to go. Dust with a little flour to prevent sticking. Pull the dough by hand. Shape into rounds or rectangles as you prefer.
- Place the pizza dough on the grille to give it marks. The dough will begin to bubble. Flip and mark on the second side. be careful not to burn it. Place the grilled doughs on sheet pans sprayed with pan spray.
- Brush the dough with the lemon syrup. Sprinkle the ricotta and berries around the dough evenly. Drape the lemon zest over the cheese and berries in an evenhanded manner as well. Place the pizzas in the oven and cook about 10 to 15 minutes until the cheese is melted and slightly browned.
- Remove from the oven, cut and serve. Sprinkle with a little Large grain salt if desired. Accompany with a nice Rose wine.