We’ll Serve some wine before its time

Orson Wells, once an icon of film, theatre and radio had a resounding baritone voice that exuded confidence and authority. Paul Masson winery used this beautiful voice to hock their cheap wines in the late 1970’s. He famously stated, “We will sell no wine before its time.” This was a low point for Wells. And, it was a lie. If you ever drank Paul Masson’s wines, you know they are far from quality. While they are fine for cooking, you may not want to drink them straight. The concept of the ad, to properly age your wines, is noble. But, the reality is, many of their wines didn’t age that long. The statement should be: We’ll Serve some wine before its time. Which would actually be a good thing for today’s holiday. It’s Beaujolais Nouveau Day. A wine best drunk young.

While the best French wines boast their aging process. Beaujolais Nouveau is the exact opposite. It falls under the category of vin de primeur, which means it can be sold in the same year it is bottled. While Beaujolais Nouveau is legendary, it’s not alone in that style anymore. In recent years wineries all over the world have gotten in on the Nouveau bandwagon. These are wines sold before their time on purpose. They tend to be lighter, and pair well with less hardy foods, such as many plant based options. Beaujolais Nouveau comes from the Gamay grape, which is lower in tannins to begin with, and with its early release, flows elegantly, complimenting a far wider range of foods than a well aged wine from the same region.

French vintners said We’ll Serve some wine before its time in the 1800’s.

The tradition of Beaujolais Nouveau began in the 1800’s, when growers would celebrate the end of harvest season by cracking open bottles of the current vintage. Before long, this became tradition, and demand for it to be shipped up and down the river increased. The AOC (wine controlling governing authority) of Beaujolais instated regulations in 1937 that wines bottled in September could go to market in November. This was pushed back to December for a while, then reverted to the third week in November. Demand for the wine spread throughout Europe. And an annual race ensued.

To this day, they release the wine at 12:01 on the third Thursday of November. Trucks and boats rush to get the wine from the appellation to the destination, whether it be Paris, London, New York, or elsewhere. In recent years, the modified the schedule a bit, to prevent a huge cluster. So, the wine may ship before that third Thursday 12:01 time, but with explicit instructions to not sell it before that time. So, unless you know a distributor who says We’ll Serve some wine before its time, you aren’t getting this year’s vintage until today. And, the chances are, you won’t see it in your local market until tomorrow at the earliest, in most US locations. Although, if your local distributor wins the race, you’ll have a glass in your hand today. Be careful, though, make sure it’s this year’s vintage you get, and not last year’s leftovers.

Fleeting, like the daylight hours

Every year, this race builds excitement and demand for Beaujolais Nouveau. There is a whole culture around it. It’s a supply and demand thing. For wine drinkers, it’s like the tickle me Elmo of the holiday season: the must have gift. The irony, of course, is that drinking young wine is a major faux pas in the wine world. If you order a non vintage wine, people think you’re a jerk. But, Beaujolais Nouveau is the exception where merchants say, We’ll Serve some wine before its time. The fervor to get yours comes from the limited availability. If you want yours for holiday drinking, get it soon. They only make about 27 million cases a year, and only 40% of that gets exported, meaning that depending on your location, you may have a hard time finding it. Outside of France, there are about 10 million cases.

The wine ships to over 110 different countries. So, that means less than 100,000 cases per country in some cases. Even if a country like the USA gets a million or more cases, remember, there are over 300 million people here. After restaurants and clubs buy the bulk, you have winning the lottery odds of getting a bottle, let alone a case. Well, that may be a bit of an exaggeration. But, try getting a bottle 6 months from now. The whole point is to buy it when it’s fresh.

Some things just don’t age well

While you drink this wine intentionally young, aging it won’t hurt. But, it won’t necessarily improve it either. The Gamay grape doesn’t have the tannins and other characteristics of grapes like Merlot, Cabernet, or Tempranillo. So, there isn’t much to develop over the years. And, the production method favors fruit over tannin as well.

They use an anaerobic fermentation method where tons of grapes are put in 20,000 gallon containers. CO2 is added. And, the weight of the grapes crushes the berries on the bottom. This releases more CO2 and natural fermentation. The result is a fruit forward wine without the bitterness of some of its contemporaries. while other wines develop characteristics over years, this one actually loses its charm. The point of Beaujolais Nouveau is the taste of fresh fruit. Try drinking any other fruit juice that sits in a pantry for years, it isn’t pleasant. That’s why they have expiration dates. Containing alcohol, BN has a natural preservative. But, it’s good for a few years, not decades. Your best bet is to drink it fresh.

That’s what makes this day so special. Every year, you need a new bottle, as opposed to buying younger wines to cellar for a few years. This wine is perfect for the short attention span of modern life. It provides instant gratification. And, it’s life is as fleeting as the current Instagram meme. Think of it as the original FOMO. And, remember the motto: We’ll Serve some wine before its time.

Versatile and Fresh

Red wines, traditionally, pair well with heavier foods. Beef, Lamb, red sauce, and other strong flavors come to mind when competing with something like a cab or Syrah. Conversely, white wines are the choice for lighter fair like seafood, chicken, and salads. Beaujolais Nouveau bridges that gap. You can have it with the heavier foods. But, it actually goes well with your salads; and, it’s a great alternative to afternoon tea. It doesn’t have the heavy body of most reds, and the fruit forward characteristics make it perfect for a light lunch, as opposed to a fireside sipper.

And, it’s one of the few red wines that you actually want to chill. Red wines, generally serve best at room temperature. This opens up the aromas and brings forth flavors that refrigerating mutes. But, BN is all about the fruit. Think about how you usually drink fruit juice: chilled. Try drinking Orange juice at room temperature. It loses its crispness and charm.

And, when you drink BN, you may notice something that tends to be missing from most reds. With traditional reds flavors of Berries, plum, tobacco, cherry, and a host of other attributes spring forth. But, you never hear anyone say it tastes like what it is: grapes. Today’s wine actually tastes like grapes. Other descriptors include raspberry, cranberry, fig, and banana.

Today, We’ll Serve some wine before its time.

Most wines start their aging process months after production. Beaujolais Nouveau is in your glass before many wines even go from barrel to bottle. And, it’s cause for celebration. While we merely go out to get a bottle of the wine, In the Beaujolais region, it’s a time of celebration. Les Sarmentelles is a 5 day festival centered around BN.

According to Visit French wine:

This five-day festival in the vineyards includes wine tastings, prestigious dinners, all types of concerts, balls and open-air cafés with dance floors, as well as quirky trips through the vineyards, a craft market,a nature fair and, of course… a wine fair!

And, as a bonus, you can beat the rest of the world to the first glasses of Beaujolais Nouveau, if you happen to be there when it’s released.

For the rest of us, though, it’s more of a DIY affair. So, to help with that, we have some recipes for a perfect pairing of this once a year phenomenon.

Sante!

Maritime Bouillabaisse with Garlic croutons and Dill Aioli

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 30 minutes mins

Cook Time 1 hour hr 30 minutes mins

Course Main Course, Soup, Stew

Cuisine American, French, Italian

Servings 4 People

Ingredients

  

• 8 each Shrimp in shell, size 16/20 or 21/25
• 2 each 1 1/4 Lb lobsters, live
• 1/2 Lb Boneless, skinless halibut Filet (or comparable firm flesh fish)
• 1/2 Lb Boneless, skinless swordfish
• 3/4 Lb Monkfish (cleaned and trimmed down)
• 12 each 20/30 size sea scallops
• 3/4 Lb Mussels in shell
• 1 Lb Fish bones and heads if available
• 1 Quart Rough chopped Carrots, Onion, and celery
• 1 Head Whole garlic.
• 2 cups Julienne Sweet Onion
• 1 Medium Fennel Bulb
• 2 Cups Baby potatoes cut in 1/2 or 14 depending on size. They should be about 1/4 to 1/3 inch.
• 1/2 tsp Saffron threads
• 1 Oz Pernod or anise flavored liquor
• 1/2 tsp Anise seed
• 4 each Bay leaves
• 1 Tbsp Whole peppercorns
• 1/4 cup Fresh basil leaves
• 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Dill
• the zest and juice of 1 large lemon
• 1 28 ounce Can of diced tomato in juice
• 1 Pint Fresh grape tomatoes, cut in half
• Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
• Olive Oil for cooking
• For croutons:
• 1 Each French baguette
• 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh garlic
• 1/2 Cup Olive oil
• Salt and Pepper to taste
• For Aioli:
• 2 large Egg Yolks
• 1 tsp Dijon Mustard
• 1/2 Tsp Chopped fresh Garlic
• 1 Tbsp Lemon Juice
• 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Dill
• 1 Cup Olive Oil
• Salt and Pepper to taste

Instructions

 

• Preheat oven to 300
• make the croutons: Cut baguette into 1/2 inch thick angle cut ovals or rounds. Spread them out on a baking sheet pan. Mix the garlic, oil, salt and pepper together. Brush this mix over the bread and bake for approximately 10 minutes until they are cooked through. They should not be too soft. Be careful not to overcook though.
• Make the aioli: Put all ingredients except oil and dill in a food processor. Turn the machine on. Drizzle the oil in slowly until the aioli forms a loose mayonnaise consistency. Add in the dill, Pulse until mixed. Adjust seasoning if necessary.
• Peel the shrimp if they have peels. Cut the back and remove the black or blue line in he shrimp (this is its digestive track. Save the shells for seafood stock.
• If you are not too squeamish, Separate the lobster into parts. You will use the body for the stock. Otherwise, you can boil the whole lobster and use the court bouillon for the stock base.
• To make the stock: Place Fish bones, lobster bodies, and shrimp shells with celery, carrots, onions, and trimmings from fennel in a large pot. Add peppercorns, 2 bay leaves, and water to cover by at least 2 inches. Bring to a boil. Then taper back to a simmer. Allow to simmer for about 45 minutes. Then strain the liquid. Use this liquid to boil your lobsters for about 8 to 10 minutes. Cool them in ice water. . Then, remove them from their shells. Cut the tail pieces in 1/2.
• Julienne slice fennel bulb and Onion. Chop the garlic, zest and juice the Lemon, chop the dill, and cut the tomatoes and potatoes while the stock is cooking. Also, cut your fish into 2 ounce pieces. Remove muscle from the scallops and make sure your mussels are cleaned and beards removed.
• Heat olive oil over medium high heat in a large wide pot. Saute the onion, garlic, bay leaves, and fennel until translucent. Add the potatoes and let them lightly brown. Stir as needed. Add in the saffron and lemon zest, and stir. Then add the Pernod and burn off the alcohol. Add in the can of tomato and 1 quart of stock. Bring to a boil and cut back to a simmer. Cook for about 20 minutes. You want the potatoes cooked, but not overcooked. Add the Tomatoes and dill. Stir and Season the soup.
• In a separate pan. Heat olive oil over medium high heat. Sear the fish, shrimp, and scallops, about 1 minute per side, separately. Season with salt and pepper. When they are all done, add them to the soup. And add in the mussels. Cover the soup and allow the mussels to open.
• To serve: Divide the cooked lobster between bowls. Then split up the seafood evenly between the bowls. Ladel the soup over the seafood. Then top with a crouton and a drizzle of aioli. Or you can serve family or buffet style from a large serving bowl or crock.

Notes

If you don’t have access to fish bones or fish heads, use the lobster and shrimp bodies to make a seafood stock.

Keyword Aioli, Bouillabaisse, Cioppino, croutons, Garlic, Hybrid, Maritime

Kale and Brandied Pear Salad with Roasted Chestnuts and Nutmeg vinaigrette

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 15 minutes mins

Cook Time 10 minutes mins

Course Salad

Cuisine American, New England

Servings 4 people

Ingredients

  

• 8 Oz Fresh Cut kale or baby kale
• 2 medium Fresh pears
• 1 Oz brandy or cognac
• 1/4 cup Dried Cranberries or house cured cranberries
• 1/2 Cup Fresh Chestnuts, roasted, removed from their shells and chopped
• 1 tbsp Sugar
• For Dressing
• 1/4 cup maple syrup or honey
• 1/2 cup Cider Vinegar
• 1 tsp Ground nutmeg
• 1 tsp Dijon Mustard
• 3/4 cup Neutral oil, plus more for cooking the pears
• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

 

• Cut and core the Pears. My preferred method is to cut the pear in 1/2 lengthwise, then cut those halves in half again, for 4 wedges. Then, carefully, cut the core and seeds from each wedge. Once the core is removed, cut each 1/4 into 3 to 5 wedges depending on the size of the Pear.
• heat a light coating of oil in a saute pan over high heat.Add in the pear wedges carefully in a single layer. Allow them to brown on one side, then flip them to the other for even color. Once browned, add a dash of sugar and stir. Then add the brandy and flame the pan to burn off the alcohol. Allow the pears to cool.
• Make the Dressing: Put all the ingredients except the oil in a blender. Turn on the blender at low speed and bring it up to high. Slowly drizzle the oil in until the dressing emulsifies. Set aside.
• Build your salad: Start with the Kale, add pears, nuts, and dried cranberries. Toss with the dressing or put the dressing on the side.

Notes

To roast the Chestnuts: Carefully split the soft top side of the shell on each chestnut. Cut a cross pattern (2 overlapping slits. Roast in a high heat oven until the shells split along the cuts. Remove from the oven and allow to cool enough that you can remove them from the shell.

Adding goat or blue cheese is also a nice touch on this type of salad. For our vegan friends, we omitted dairy.

Toasted pepitas can be another nice addition as well.

Keyword Brandied Pear, Chestnuts, kale, Nutmeg Vinaigrette, Roasted, salad, Thanksgiving, vegan

Bleu Cheese Mousse tart with Port Poached Pear

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 20 minutes mins

Cook Time 1 hour hr

Course Appetizer, Dessert

Cuisine American, French

Servings 24 Mini Tarts

Ingredients

  

• For tart shell:
• 1 Cup Flour
• 1/2 Cup Chilled Butter
• 1 large Egg yolk
• 1 Tbsp Sugar
• 2 Tbsp Cold Water
• 1/2 tsp Salt
• For Blue Cheese Mousse
• 1/2 Lb Soft Blue Cheese
• 1/2 Lb Cream Cheese
• 1/4 Cup Honey
• 1 Tbsp Sour Cream
• For Poached Pear:
• 2 to 3 Medium Fresh Pears
• 1 Bottle Port Wine
• 1 Cup Sugar
• 2 Each Cinnamon Sticks
• 1 Each Fresh Orange
• 2 Tbsp Sliced Fresh Ginger
• 1 Each Vanilla Bean, split

Instructions

 

• Make the tart shells: Chop the butter into pea sized pieces. Mix the dry ingredients in a bowl. Then mix the butter in with the flour mix until it begins to form a dough. Add in the water and egg yolk. Continue kneading until a solid dough forms. Allow to rest for at least 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Then, roll out and place the dough into miniature rounds. Place in tart baking pans. You can do minis or a large. For our purposes, we prefer mini. Poke the bottoms of the shells with a fork. Bake the shells for about 20 minutes until golden brown. You may want to blind bake by lining the shells with foil and weighing that down with dry beans or rice. When baked, remove from oven and allow to completely cool.
• Poach the pears: Peel and core the pears. Cut them in half for the poaching. Place all ingredients except pears into a pot and bring to a boil. Allow the sugar to completely melt. Then, place the pears in the liquid and bring to a simmer. Allow the fruit to soften, yet maintain a bit of a crunch. Check after about 15 minutes. They should be done. Give a little more time if necessary. Remove the cooked pears from the liquid. Then, continue cooking the liquid down until it becomes a thick syrup. You will drizzle this on the final tart.
• make the Mousse: Puree the bleu cheese until smooth, with few chunks. This can be done in a food processor or mixing bowl. Whip the cream cheese in a stand mixer and fold in the remaining ingredients. It should be fluffy. Be careful not to overwhip or it will become too loose.
• Assemble: Cut the pears into appropriate size for the tarts. Pipe the mousse into the shells using a pastry bar with or without a tip. Top with the poached pears and drizzle or brush on the port syrup. Serve immediately or refrigerate for later use.

Keyword Appetizer, Bleu Cheese, dessert, Mousse, pastry, Pear, Poached, Port, red wine, Tart

Vanilla Mint Crepes with Grand Marnier Apricot and Cherry Flambe

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 10 minutes mins

Cook Time 15 minutes mins

Course Breakfast, brunch, Dessert

Cuisine American, French

Servings 4 people

Ingredients

  

• For the Crepes
• 2 Large Eggs
• 11/2 cup Light Cream
• 1 cup AP flour
• 2 Tbsp Melted unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1 Tbsp chopped fresh mint
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• Pan spray for cooking
• For the Topping
• 1/2 stick Butter
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 1 cup pitted fresh rainier or other type of cherries
• 1 cup fresh apricots, pits removed and cubed
• 2 oz Grand Marnier

Instructions

 

• make the crepe batter: Whisk the eggs. Add in sugar and mint and continue whisking. Add the cream and vanilla. Continue whisking. Slowly add in the flour until it is well incorporated and there are no lumps. Allow to rest for at least 10 minutes.
• Heat a non stick pan over medium heat or use a crepe maker. A flat pan works best. Spray the pan with pan spray and carefully ladle the mix in in a thin layer, turning the pan to get maximum thin coverage. If it is too thick, it will be more of a pancake than a crepe. Cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute depending on your heat level. It should be golden brown on the bottom. The top should be just about cooked through. Then flip the crepe, either by hand or using a rubber spatula. Stack the crepes when done. repeat this process until all the batter is used up.
• make the flambe: Melt the butter over high heat and stir in the sugar. They will make a caramel syrup type of base. Add in the fruit and stir until well coated. Remove the pan from the heat and add in Grand Marnier. Dip the pan toward the flame and allow the flames to catch. This will result in a bluish flame. Burn off the alcohol and continue to cook about 30 seconds to a minute. The result will be fruit in a caramel syrup.
• Fold the crepes in quarters and arrange on a plate. Spoon the fruit and syrup over the crepes, garnish, and serve hot.

Notes

The crepe making process can be done in several ways. The method described here doesn’t require any special equipment. I find that a non stick saute pan works great. If you are more comfortable with a “crepe pan” or crepe making apparatus, feel free. These are usually flat pans or machines that have a flat heated surface. You use a wooden spatula or trowel to smooth out the batter. If your batter is thin enough, you can get similar results from an old school saute pan, though.

As for the color of the crepes. Some people don’t want any color at all in their crepes. So, you will want to cook over a lower temperature. I prefer a golden brown color. One side has a nicely marbled coloring. The flip side is pretty much cooked batter with a few brown spots. If you are making stuffed crepes, blintzes, or a manicotti, you probably want less color. For this type of recipe, though, color is good.

To make it easy here, we just spoon the fruit and syrup on top. In classical cooking, the crepes would be reheated in the syrup to evenly coat them. Having larger chunks of fruit in this recipe, makes that less than practical. Again, it’s up tp you  how you want to present the dish.

Keyword Apricots, cherries, Crepes, Flambe, Grand marnier, Mint, rainier, vanilla