Can we be Franc here?
Ah, the world of Wine. To some it’s just red or white. To others it’s a lifelong obsession full of nuance and adventure. There are hundreds of grape varieties. And, each of those has good and bad years.Then, there’s the blending of varieties to come up with an entirely new wine. And, that’s what we celebrate today. Can we be Franc here? It’s national Cabernet Franc day. This is one of the most widely used grape varieties, despite rarely seeing a starring role in a bottle. Most of the time, it’s a blending grape in Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. But, don’t be fooled. This grape plays a major role in vinification.
As with most grapes, its origins aren’t entirely known. But, records indicate it migrated from the Basque region on the border of Spain and France deep into the French countryside. It’s credited with being a parent of Cabernet Sauvignon via cross breeding with Sauvignon Blanc. It also claims patronage to Merlot and Carmeniere. While its kids have enjoyed international fame, Cabernet Franc usually plays a supporting role, except in Chinon from the Loire Valley; and, some new world vintners proudly serve it as the main attraction, especially in the US and Canada where colder climates compliment its attributes. It even shows up as eiswein (Ice wine), a sweet wine derived from late harvested grapes where the cold activates more sugar.
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The new world answers the question: Can we be franc here
Thanks to modern vintners experimenting with Cabernet Franc, maybe some of that obscurity will dissipate. While Napa and Sonoma continue to fold it into Cabernet Blends, other regions of the USA, like New England proudly sell cabernet Franc by name, like Truro Vineyard on Cape Cod. And, up and coming regions like Argentina also see the wisdom in promoting this noble grape. It’s an unlikely grape from unlikely regions. In a way, it almost has a cult classic following. Think of it like a band, say “the Box Tops”. People know “The Letter”. But, the band and its successors Big Star, and founding member: Alex Chilton never saw commercial success or mass audience approval. However, those in the know appreciate the beautifully crafted songs they created. In fact, they are the inspiration for dozens of other bands and musicians.
Their songs have all the elements of a Beatles or Byrds composition. But, they reach a more select audience tired of the same old songs being played ad nauseam on main stream radio. The band “the replacements” even have a song called Alex Chilton venerating his influence. Chilton and his followers remain committed to quality songwriting, in much the same way as Cabernet Franc remains a stalwart in the corners of the world that mass produced wine and music are accepted as fine, but, boring after a while. Think of it like Mary Clayton. Her claim to fame is the back up singer of the Rolling Stones “Gimme Shelter.” But, everyone knows, she’s the star of that song. Without her surging vocals, it would be a pretty mundane piece in the Stone’s catalogue. It’s time Cabernet Franc took center stage, where it Belongs.
You don’t have to go to some backwater town
Although finding Cabernet Franc on its own is not as easy as Cabernet Sauvignon and the other big sellers, it is available at big box stores like Total Wine. You won’t find it in the prime shelf space. But, it is there. And, even the wines in those prime spots probably have some Cabernet Franc in them. Going back to music, it’s like “Elvis is everywhere“. It’s the secret ingredient in every vintner’s pantry. A huge majority of red wines need a little help to round out the vintage. In a way, Cabernet Franc is like salt in its ubiquitous appearance in wine blends. So, today’s assignment is easy: drink some Cabernet Franc. You probably already are, and didn’t know it. And, if you encounter some local variations, you can really see it shine.
What to expect
The so called “Big Reds” like Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are heavy, highly Tannic wines. But, Cabernet Franc is more balanced. It has a medium body, moderate to high tannins, Mid to high acidity, and a balance of fruit, herbs, and “earthiness.” As with all grapes, where it grows holds the key to what you get. It has a bit of a tart red berry flavor with dry fruit accents in some cooler regions, like Bordeaux, France. But, in Warmer climates like California, it has a fuller body, and more fresh fruit accents. Moderate temperature areas bring out more savory and herbal tones. Some people say to expect hints of mint and green pepper. Being a red wine, though, expect the predominant flavors of plum, berries, violet, and some pepper flavors and scent.
Since it’s not as heavy as its forebears, you don’t have to serve it with the heaviest foods. Although, you don’t want to serve it with super light fare either. Just like the good parent it is, it’s about balance, the kids want to be flashy and extreme, while the parent can do everything the kid does, but, with a bit of restraint and class. Think of it like driving a family sedan with a high powered engine. The kids may laugh at how it looks, until it goes zero to 60 in 3.9 seconds.
I would pair it with a full flavored meal or snack. If you decide on cheese, try for more flavorful ones, like triple cream or a bleu cheese. Stinky is always a good way to go. Tallegio or an aged Gouda won’t let you down. For a meal, think pasta, Roasts, an eggplant or Legume dish, or a hearty seafood like Monkfish or Sea Bass. Try some of our recipes below.
Herb Seared Monkfish with White Wine, Leek, and Bacon Beurre Blanc accompanied by Cauliflower and Golden Potato Puree, and Lemon Scented Brussel Sprouts
Ingredients
- 2 Lb Monkfish Filet
- 1 cup Chopped fresh herbs, Parsley, dill, chive, Basil, Thyme
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 1/4 cup Olive oil
- 1/4 cup Jullienne fresh leeks
- 1 Cup White Wine
- 1/4 cup diced raw bacon Use Slab bacon if available or thick cut
- 1/4 cup Chicken Broth or fish stock
- 1/4 Lb Sweet Unsalted butter cut into slices
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- 1 whole lemon, Just the juice
- For the Cauliflower Potato Puree
- 4 Cups Raw cauliflower cut into smaller florets so the moisture can cook out.
- 2 Cups Raw peeled potato, preferably golden
- 4 Tbsp Sweet unsalted butter
- Sea salt and Ground white pepper to taste, plus oil to coat cauliflower
- For Brussel Sprouts
- 1 Lb Brussel Spouts, trim bottoms and split in 1/2
- Oil to saute
- 2 Tbsp Sugar
- 1/4 cup Lemon juice
- A little water if needed
- salt and pepper to taste
- Garnish the plate with lemons and herbs
Instructions
- Trim the tough skin and membrane from the monkfish and cut into 4 equal portions. If you can get your fishmonger to do this for you, even better.
- Combine, the garlic, herbs, and a little salt and pepper in a mixing bowl. Toss the fish in the herb mixture to coat evenly.
- Heat a large saute pan over medium high heat. Put in a good amount of olive oil. Place the fish in the pan when hot. Sear one side until lightly browned, then turn over and sear the other for about a minute.
- Transfer the fish to a flat pan sprayed with pan spray, place in 350 degree oven to finish, about 10 minutes. You can check the temperature with a meat thermometer. It should be 145 to 155 degrees.
- Start the sauce before putting the fish in the oven and make it while the fish is roasting. You can use the same pan as the fish if there aren't too many stray herbs that will burn in the pan. Or you can wipe it out and start fresh.
- Heat a saute pan and add in the bacon pieces, render until it becomes brown and the fat is liquid. Drain off some of the fat if it looks like too much. Add in the leeks and stir occasionally. Cook until they become translucent. Then add the wine and cook it down by 1/2 volume. Add in the stock and reduce that by 1/2. Before you serve, whisk in the butter a little at a time so it blends in, but doesn't separate. It will create a creamy sauce. You don't want it to melt and separate.
- Continue whisking and add in the lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Make the sauce as close to service as possible. If you try to reheat it could "break" and separate into liquid and melted butter. This is why the butter is added last (with the seasoning and lemon juice).
- For the Puree: Boil potatoes in lightly salted water.
- When they are fully boiled, soft to the touch, but not falling apart, strain them.
- Toss the cauliflower in a little oil, salt, and pepper and roast in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes. They should be soft to the touch.
- Put the cauliflower into a food processor while still hot. Puree until smooth, scraping down the sides occasionally. Add in the potatoes and follow the same procedure. Be careful how long you puree for. The potatoes can become gummy.
- With the machine running, add in the butter, continue pureeing. Add in salt and pepper to finish and transfer to a bowl (or pan if it needs to be reheated) and test to make sure the seasoning is good and it's not too thin.
- For the brussel sprouts, heat oil in a pan over medium high heat. Add in the brussels and allow them to get some color on one side, Then toss or stir to get color on both sides. Stir often to keep from over cooking. They should still be firm. Add sugar and stir. Allow the sugar to melt. Then add the lemon juice and cook down. If the brussels are still undercooked you may add a little water. The liquid should be mostly gone except for a light glaze. Add salt and pepper. Stir that in.
- To Plate: Spoon the Cauliflower puree unto the plate and drag it a bit to make a trough to put the fish on. Alternatively, you could mound the puree to give the dish height. Place the fish atop the puree. Arrange the Brussels around the puree. Spoon the sauce over the fish and then garnish with lemons and herbs or microgreens. Enjoy with a lighter ale, like Harp or Smithwicks or a nice white wine.
Notes
Grilled Eggplant Stuffed With Herbed Quinoa Drizzled with Tomato Coulis and Garnished with Micro Greens
Ingredients
- 1 Lb Fresh Eggplant
- 1/2 Cup Assorted Chopped Fresh Herbs (Thyme, Parsley, Marjoram, Chives, Sage, Rosemary)
- Olive oil for cooking
- Kosher salt and pepper to taste
- 12 each Whole Fresh Chives
- 1/4 Cup Fine Diced Sweet Onion
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 1 cup Dried Quinoa
- 1/4 cup Fine Diced Fresh Mushrooms
- 2 Tbsp Fine Diced Fresh Carrots
- 2 to 3 Cups Vegetable stock or Water
- For tomato Coulis:
- 1/4 cup Minced White Onion
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 2 Cup Canned Diced Tomato
- 4 or 5 each Leaves of Fresh Basil
- 1/4 cup Red Wine
- Kosher salt and pepper to taste
- 1/4 cup Olive oil
Instructions
- make the Tomato Coulis: Blend the tomato at high speed until totally smooth. Heat olive oil in a Heavy pot. Saute the onion and garlic until translucent. Add the red wine and reduce until it is almost gone. Add the Tomato and basil and bring up to a simmer. Allow it to simmer about 45 minutes to an hour, stirring as needed. If it gets too thick, add a little water. You want the acidity of the tomatoes to cook off. When done, season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
- prepare the eggplant: If you have a slicing machine, that works best for this. Or you can use a mandolin or knife if you can slice thin and even slices. First, Pick eggplants that are not too large. About 3 inch diameter is best. Slice The vegetable lengthwise. about 1/8 inch thick. Brush them with olive oil and sprinkle evenly with a little bit of the herb mixture, salt, and pepper. Preheat a grille or grille pan and grille the slices carefully over high heat. You want nice marks and the eggplant to become pliable enough to wrap around food. Set aside.
- make the Quinoa: Heat olive oil in a pot over medium high heat. Saute the Onion and garlic until translucent. Fold in the carrots and mushroom sand continue to cook for about 1 minute. Add the Quinoa, and mix all ingredients. Add the stock, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil. Then cut back to a simmer. Cook until the quinoa is tender, but not falling apart. If it is cooked, but there is still liquid,remove from the heat and strain out the extra liquid. Adjust seasoning if necessary. Then fold in the remaining herbs. Allow to cool.
- Dip chives into Boiling water to make them pliable.
- lay out the eggplant slices on a sheet pan. Use a scoop, spoon, or your hands to place a generous amount of quinoa about an inch up in the wide part of the eggplant. Roll up the eggplant. Fold the sides over to partially cover the quinoa. Then roll up the eggplant into a package. Repeat with the each slice. Then, wrap each bundle with a chive and tie it tight. reheat in a 350 degree oven.
- Reheat the Coulis. Spread a thin coating on a small plate. Place the eggplant bundle on top. Then drizzle a little more sauce over the top and garnish with micro greens, a couple drops of fine olive oil, and Some fresh ground black or mixed peppercorns.
Northwestern Coffee rubbed Hanger steak with Whiskey apple chutney
Ingredients
- 3 Lbs Trimmed Hanger steak
- For the rub:
- 1/2 cup fresh ground coffee (grind extra fine, use a deep roasted coffee)
- 1/4 cup Chili Powder
- 1/4 cup ground cumin
- 1/4 cup brown sugar
- 1/4 cup mustard powder
- 1 Tbsp ground cinnamon
- 1 tsp kosher salt
- 1 tsp ground black pepper
- For chutney:
- 2 cups diced fresh apple
- 1 cup diced sweet onion
- 1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh ginger
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 1/4 cup Whiskey (preferably from Washington or Oregon)
- 1/4 cup Cider vinegar
- 1 each cinnamon stick
- 1/2 tsp curry powder (optional)
- 1/4 cup chopped scallion
- coconut oil to cook
Instructions
- Make the rub: mix together all the spices until well blended. Then, rub the steak with the spice blend. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. If you can make it the day before and let it marinate over night, even better. You want the flavors to penetrate the meat.
- make the chutney: Heat coconut oil over medium high heat. Put the cinnamon stick in the oil. Add in the onions and ginger and stir. Cook until translucent. Then add in the sugar and stir until melted. Add the apples and spread them evenly. Allow them to caramelize a bit, then stir. Add in curry if desired (optional). Add in the whiskey and burn off the alcohol by flaming the pan. If you don't feel comfortable with the flames, turn down the heat and allow the whiskey to cook down. Add the vinegar and reduce by half. Stir to evenly combine everything. The liquid should be more of a glaze, and the apples should maintain their shape, but be relatively softened. Remove from the heat and fold in the scallions for color and texture.
- Fire up your grille and cook the flank steak. You want a medium high heat to get nice markings, but not burn. Cook about 3 to 5 minutes per side. Then remove from the grill e and let it rest for about 5 minutes before cutting. If you cut it straight off the grille, the juices will bleed out and the steak will become tough and dry. I like rare to medium rare. Cook longer if you desire.
- Slice the steak and fan it on a platter. Serve it with the apple chutney.