Nothing like eaux de vie
Today is one of those days dedicated to a drink that derives its name from a certain region. It’s National Cognac Day. This is ironic since cognac is a french product, but, this is an American celebration. But, as the Lady’s man would tell you, a romantic evening starts with a bottle of Cognac. While most agree that it’s a fancy drink, few, in this country, actually know what cognac is. To it’s producers in France, there is Nothing like eaux de vie. That is the name of the essence that becomes cognac after aging. Eau de vie (singular) translates to water of life. And, it certainly does provide a life for distillers in the cognac region of France. The cognac name instantly increases the value of what could be an average brandy. But, you know you’re getting a quality brandy if it bears the cognac name.
So, what is this mysterious libation? Cognac is a distillation of white wine from the Cognac region of France. To carry the name Cognac, beyond being from the region, it must come from a handful of grape varieties. It must be twice distilled in copper pots of a specific design. And, it must age for a minimum of two years. Most age more. And, there are different titles for the amount of aging. If you drink cognac, you know how scintillating it is. Ironically, the grapes used are actually pretty inferior. That’s why it has to go through double distillation. Some describe the major grape varieties as undrinkable. But, don’t let that fool you. There are 3 main grape varieties. But, there are several other varieties allowed in cognac. Some, like semillon, make pretty decent wines on their own.
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Cheap grapes are Nothing like eaux de vie
The 3 main grapes used for cognac are Ugni blanc (known in Italy as Trebbiano), Folle blanche and Colombard. Wine experts describe them as Dry, thin, and acidic. Not exactly an endorsement of quality. But, if a vintner doesn’t care about the designation of “cru” for their product, they may introduce a half dozen other grape varieties into the blend. But, the government has very strict guidelines governing the use of the name cognac. So, producers follow the rules.
And, it truly is artistry in action. Once pressed, the grapes ferment for about 10 days to an alcohol content of around 7 to 8 percent. Then, the distillation process creates the essence (named Eau de vie). This is then aged in oak casks, a minimum of 2 years. It starts at 70% alcohol. But, during the aging process, some of the alcohol evaporates, creating a final ABV of around 40%. The lost alcohol is, artistically named la part des anges (the angel’s share). When the eau de vie is aged long enough, they usually blend it with other batches to create a consistent product, since variations in grape quality and environmental factors create differences in product. So, your Corvoissier will always taste the same in spite of what year it comes from.
But, some local producers eschew the blending step, preferring the variations like fine wines do. Unfortunately, few of these leave the region. The world market values consistency over variation. Not that that’s a bad thing. If it was a bad year for crops, it will show in a non blended cognac.
Age is more than just a number
The major difference in quality designations of cognac is how long it’s aged. and, there are designations based on just that. We mentioned, it has to age at least 2 years. But, most age longer. The following designations sum up the difference between cognacs. And, they help you buy that right cognac for you.
- VS: Very Special, means that the brandy aged for at least 2 years in oak. This is the minimum standard. But, still high quality. Most are blends of different vintages. So, the youngest one is 2 years. That means that some could age longer.
- VSOP: Very Superior Old Pale, means that the youngest brandy in the blend aged a minimum of 4 years.
- Napoleon: While this sounds like it would be the highest quality, it really means a blend or single vintage at least 6 years old.
- XO: Extra old. To get this title, the youngest in the blend must be at least 10 years old.
- XXO: Extra extra old: Aged over 14 years
- Hors d’âge: Beyond age. This is an alternate designation for XO. So, it must age at least 10 years. But, often it means an extra high quality cognac. You would want a better explanation from the producer as to the difference.
You may notice a blend of French and English terminology in these designations. That is due to years of close trade with British buyers.
More to the flavor profile
As with fine wines, the designation of cognac, like champagne or Bordeaux, means it comes from a specific region in France. This means the terroire, soil composition, and atmospherics play a major role in the fruit that becomes the wine, that becomes the eau de vie, that becomes cognac. But, at heart, it’s all just brandy. People think cognac is its own animal. But, in reality, it’s inferior grapes fermented and distilled. You don’t have to be in France or cognac to make a good quality brandy. Although, the history and experience of Cognac producers gives them a leg up on the competition.
A long time ago, I visited Sonoma California. Remy Martin (The cognac producer from France) had a distillery there, named RMS. They brought their years of experience to America to produce some fine cognac quality brandies. I was especially enamored of their Pear de pear brandy. And, they had a room swirling with the fumes from the distillation, that they called the breath of angels. Unfortunately, they sold the distillery. But, there are still producers outside of France making quality brandies. In the US, there are distilleries in many states, including, surprisingly: Indiana, Wisconsin, New Hampshire, Colorado, New Mexico, Washington state, and of course, California.
Not surprising is that some comes from Kentucky. Since they are known for Bourbon whiskey. This is America’s own appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC). It’s not a far stretch to switch out grains for grapes.
Straight or mixed, there’s Nothing like eaux de vie
The classic way to enjoy cognac is straight in a snifter glass. For an extra special appreciation, Place the snifter over a glass of hot water to warm the liqueur. But, there is so much more to do with cognac. That method, i prefer for finer quality cognacs where you don’t want anything else. But, mixing a lesser aged cognac or brandy is fine too. And, if you don’t want to go through the trouble of mixing a drink, there are a number of liqueurs based on cognac and brandy. Grand Marnier is orange and cognac. Chambord infuses berries and vanilla, domaine de Canton is a ginger flavored brandy. And, of course there is the classic pear as in Poire William or Apple as in calvados or similar.
Since, there’s Nothing like eaux de vie, cognac does mix well with other things. Most cognac drinks are strong, more martini’esque. But, you can mix with non alcoholic ingredients as well. But, if you’re going to do that, go with a cheaper variation, since a well crafted cognac or brandy tends toward unique flavors best enjoyed as close to straight as possible. And, why waste the money when a more neutral version will suffice.
So, your mission ofr today is to enjoy some cognac or a good cognac substitute. Whether straight or mixed depends on the quality and your tolerance for a stronger drink.
Here are a few cocktail ideas if you do decide to mix:
- Sazerac: 1 part cognac, 1 part Absynthe, a dash of bitters, and a splash of simple syrup or classically prepared by pouring the liqueurs over a sugar cube.
- Brandy Alexander: 2 oz cognac, 2 oz creme de cacao, 2 oz cream, Shake with ice
- French 75: 2 oz Cognac, 4 oz Champagne, 1 oz Simple Syrup, 1 oz Lemon Juice
Feel free to play around. You could even do things like mix brandy or cognac based liqueurs like cognac and grand marnier or pear brandy. No matter how you serve it, today will be a romantic day involving a bottle of cognac and good times.