The Equinox meets Autumn
It happens twice a year, The relation of the Earth to the sun reaches a point where they are at a distance where the days in the central regions of the world are roughly equally divided into light and dark. If you are located near the equator, the sun will be directly overhead at noon. For the rest of us, it is approximate. But, it signals a stasis or equilibrium. It is a perfect time for truly balanced living. The vernal equinox signals longer days ahead. Unfortunately for us in temperate zones when The Equinox meets Autumn, that signals the impending dark days of winter. This is when seasonal affective disorder becomes an issue. If you live far enough to the north, it is really a problem, as you can go days without seeing the sun.
But, this doesn’t mean it’s time to despair. In fact, this is the perfect time to get your affairs in order. It’s time to take stock of what is good in your life, and, discharge the negative energy around you. Outdoor activities give way to gathering around the hearth. You don’t need to worry about your beach body. In fact, it’s time to indulge in comfort foods and snuggly clothing. Today is the day you reflect on the best of both worlds: the light sun-drenched days of summer and the cozy days of decadence to come. Today is an even day. Soon, you will wake in darkness, and drive home from work while the sunsets. But, Hot soup, Hearty casseroles, and Warm cocktails await.
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The Equinox meets Autumn in the kitchen
In traditional western culture, the hearth has been the center of Culture. If you read stories of periods before the invention of modern appliances, the hearth was where the warmest part of the house was. And, all the activity centered around the kitchen. The scent of fresh baked breads and stews permeates the house. And, people share their lives and stories around the hearth. In Gaelic regions, the Ceilidh is a traditional gathering of stories, song, and merriment in a truly intimate setting. Picture several families gathered around a kitchen, singing, playing instruments, and enjoying each other’s company. Traditions, tales, and poems are passed on in this setting.
And, the equinox keeps coming, every year. As do Ceilidhs, albeit in a different setting. Today, most ceilidhs are more of a concert than gathering. They have mostly moved out of the kitchen. But, food and company are still hallmarks of Autumn gathering. Remember, it’s equinox. All things are equal today. Just like comfort food, there’s something familiar about this time of year. Maybe it’s time to bring back the traditional gathering. Unfortunately, most people do their gathering digitally. Although, that’s still gathering. Except you don’t get to share the smells and tastes of traditional gatherings over the internet. Of course, you don’t share the germs and diseases either. So, again, it’s the equal trade off of equinox meets autumn.
It’s not mystical or cosmic
When we think of equinox, we picture Druids and Wicca in medieval garb dancing around Stonehenge, celebrating the occult and aliens. But, the reality is, even the druids were simply celebrating humanity. As mentioned in our opening sentence, Equinox is strictly an Earthly phenomenon. It marks our relationship to the sun. There are only 9 planets in our solar system (yes, I still consider Pluto a planet despite what a group of scientists say). That means we have 8 siblings with a direct relationship to our sun, which is a minor star in the scheme of the universe. And, each of these planets has it’s own particular orientation with said minor star. Our particular relationship governs temperature and light exposure. Before the advent of modern scientific inquiry, these changes meant mysterious forces were at work. But, now we know, it’s just a facet of life on Earth.
It’s fun to ascribe mystical or cosmic meaning to equinoxes and solstices. And, there’s nothing wrong with that. But, remember, it’s simply an acknowledgement of our living conditions on this planet at this time. There are equinoxes and solstices on neighboring planets too. They just happen at different intervals with different effects. For instance, Mars has 687 days in it’s solar year, as opposed to our 365. That’s how long it takes for the planet to orbit the sun. There’s nothing other-worldly about The Earth orbiting the sun. It’s just the way we roll. So, when we celebrate equinox, we take note of our existence, humans, animals, and everything else on this verdant rock. And, if you want to believe we pierce a veil between worlds, sure, why not. There’s nothing wrong with entertaining ourselves and telling stories. And, that brings us back to Celidhs.
The Equinox meets autumn most fiercely in the European tradition
Celtic lore and European interpretations of Equinox is what drives the autumnal celebration season. Equinox means that planting and harvest are coming to an end soon. We just had the harvest moon. And, now it’s time to hunker down for winter. But, it depends on where on Earth you are. Europe is where these traditions flow from. But, if you’re in places like Peru or South Africa, you’re actually going in the opposite direction. The days are about to get hotter and longer. This is because the earth is tilted. So, our whole view is opposite.
And, it proves Einsteins theory of relativity. Our experience is relative to where we are. I happen to be writing this in New England. Our climate is similar to Europe. Plus we were settled by Europeans. So, we have a Euro-centric view of the world, based in European lore. Ironically, we also share a similar geographical orientation as China. But, it’s our European roots that predominate our world view. That’s not to say China and Eastern countries don’t also celebrate Equinox. They just do it a little differently. It’s a good time to try balancing eggs on end to demonstrate equilibrium. They also use lights to illuminate the path through the colder months. Either way, it’s still about understanding your surroundings. The real phrase for the day should be “know your place”.
Ironically, it’s the equator where Equinox is at its optimal. But, it’s in these northern areas where we make a big fuss over it.
For everything, there is a season.
Pete Seeger took the words of Ecclesiastes and put them in a song that the Byrds had a huge hit with: Turn, turn, turn. “To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven” really sums up what we celebrate with the passing of the sun. So, when we look at equinox, it’s important to remember it’s only one day in the cycle of the planet as we turn, turn, turn. Especially poignant is the line: “a time to plant, and a time to pluck up that which is planted”. This is important to us culinarily, since we want to strive for eating local. In our temperate zones, this means the last corn of the season, and lots of squashes and root vegetables. So, let’s celebrate the equinox with food that is equally seasonal and delicious.
To that end, we bring you some recipes that capture the essence of the season, especially here in New England and the European traditions. Get yourself some mulled cider and/or wine, and settle in with some more hearty comfort food. It’s that time of year to put vanity aside, and enjoy food for what it is: sustenance and satisfaction.
Winter warmer Mulled Wine
Ingredients
- 1 quart Red Zinfandel Wine (may substitute other variety. But, avoid heavily oaked or high tannin wines)
- 2 Whole Clementines or tangerines may substitute oranges
- 4 3 inch cinnamon sticks
- 1 tsp Whole Cloves
- 1/2 cup Brown Sugar
- 1/2 Cup Honey
- 1 clove Nutmeg
- 1 Medium Apple
- 4 each Star Anise (optional)
- 1 each bay leaf (optional)
- 4 Large Seasonal Grapes for garnish
- Mixture of 1/2 and 1/2 sugar and cinnamon for rimming the glass
Instructions
- Cut the clementines in half. Cut the apple into eight wedges and remove the seeds. Place all ingredients except grapes and cinnamon sugar in a pot. Bring to a low simmer. Stir well until the sugar and honey melt into the liquid. Allow to steep for about 10 to 15 minutes until the flavors have had time to mull together.
- Dip the rims of Thick rimmed glasses, preferably mugs, in water to moisten enough to make the cinnamon sugar stick. Put the sugar mix in a plate and dip the wet rims into the sugar mix. make sure you get a nice sugar rim.
- Strain the wine into the rimmed glasses. Garnish with the clementines, apples, cinnamon sticks and grapes. If you can slit the fruits so they can hang on the edge of the glass, that is preferable. Drink while still warm.
Herb Seared Monkfish with White Wine, Leek, and Bacon Beurre Blanc accompanied by Cauliflower and Golden Potato Puree, and Lemon Scented Brussel Sprouts
Ingredients
- 2 Lb Monkfish Filet
- 1 cup Chopped fresh herbs, Parsley, dill, chive, Basil, Thyme
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 1/4 cup Olive oil
- 1/4 cup Jullienne fresh leeks
- 1 Cup White Wine
- 1/4 cup diced raw bacon Use Slab bacon if available or thick cut
- 1/4 cup Chicken Broth or fish stock
- 1/4 Lb Sweet Unsalted butter cut into slices
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- 1 whole lemon, Just the juice
- For the Cauliflower Potato Puree
- 4 Cups Raw cauliflower cut into smaller florets so the moisture can cook out.
- 2 Cups Raw peeled potato, preferably golden
- 4 Tbsp Sweet unsalted butter
- Sea salt and Ground white pepper to taste, plus oil to coat cauliflower
- For Brussel Sprouts
- 1 Lb Brussel Spouts, trim bottoms and split in 1/2
- Oil to saute
- 2 Tbsp Sugar
- 1/4 cup Lemon juice
- A little water if needed
- salt and pepper to taste
- Garnish the plate with lemons and herbs
Instructions
- Trim the tough skin and membrane from the monkfish and cut into 4 equal portions. If you can get your fishmonger to do this for you, even better.
- Combine, the garlic, herbs, and a little salt and pepper in a mixing bowl. Toss the fish in the herb mixture to coat evenly.
- Heat a large saute pan over medium high heat. Put in a good amount of olive oil. Place the fish in the pan when hot. Sear one side until lightly browned, then turn over and sear the other for about a minute.
- Transfer the fish to a flat pan sprayed with pan spray, place in 350 degree oven to finish, about 10 minutes. You can check the temperature with a meat thermometer. It should be 145 to 155 degrees.
- Start the sauce before putting the fish in the oven and make it while the fish is roasting. You can use the same pan as the fish if there aren't too many stray herbs that will burn in the pan. Or you can wipe it out and start fresh.
- Heat a saute pan and add in the bacon pieces, render until it becomes brown and the fat is liquid. Drain off some of the fat if it looks like too much. Add in the leeks and stir occasionally. Cook until they become translucent. Then add the wine and cook it down by 1/2 volume. Add in the stock and reduce that by 1/2. Before you serve, whisk in the butter a little at a time so it blends in, but doesn't separate. It will create a creamy sauce. You don't want it to melt and separate.
- Continue whisking and add in the lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Make the sauce as close to service as possible. If you try to reheat it could "break" and separate into liquid and melted butter. This is why the butter is added last (with the seasoning and lemon juice).
- For the Puree: Boil potatoes in lightly salted water.
- When they are fully boiled, soft to the touch, but not falling apart, strain them.
- Toss the cauliflower in a little oil, salt, and pepper and roast in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes. They should be soft to the touch.
- Put the cauliflower into a food processor while still hot. Puree until smooth, scraping down the sides occasionally. Add in the potatoes and follow the same procedure. Be careful how long you puree for. The potatoes can become gummy.
- With the machine running, add in the butter, continue pureeing. Add in salt and pepper to finish and transfer to a bowl (or pan if it needs to be reheated) and test to make sure the seasoning is good and it's not too thin.
- For the brussel sprouts, heat oil in a pan over medium high heat. Add in the brussels and allow them to get some color on one side, Then toss or stir to get color on both sides. Stir often to keep from over cooking. They should still be firm. Add sugar and stir. Allow the sugar to melt. Then add the lemon juice and cook down. If the brussels are still undercooked you may add a little water. The liquid should be mostly gone except for a light glaze. Add salt and pepper. Stir that in.
- To Plate: Spoon the Cauliflower puree unto the plate and drag it a bit to make a trough to put the fish on. Alternatively, you could mound the puree to give the dish height. Place the fish atop the puree. Arrange the Brussels around the puree. Spoon the sauce over the fish and then garnish with lemons and herbs or microgreens. Enjoy with a lighter ale, like Harp or Smithwicks or a nice white wine.
Notes
Thyme scented Beef Stew with Candied Turnips and Brussel Sprouts
Ingredients
- 2 Lb Cubed beef (Use a bottom round or shoulder cut, not a high quality cut like sirloin)
- 1/2 cup AP flour
- 1/4 Lb Unsalted Butter
- 1 Cup red wine
- 1/2 cup Sweet Onion in 1 inch squares
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 1/4 Cup Chopped Fresh Thyme
- 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Sage
- 1 cup Potatoes, peeled and cut in 1 inch cubes
- 1 cup Sweet Potatoes, peeled and cut in 1 inch cubes
- 1/2 Cup brussel sprouts, ends snipped and cut in 1/2
- 1/2 Cup Carrots Cubed
- 1/2 cup Celery Cubed
- 2 Quarts Beef or veal stock
- For Candied Turnips:
- 1 Lb Turnips, Peeled and cut into 1 inch Cubes
- 1/2 stick Unsalted Butter
- 1/2 cup Brown Sugar
- 1/2 Cup Orange Juice
- Salt and Pepper to taste
Instructions
- Season the flour with salt and pepper. Toss the beef cubes in the flour and coat evenly.
- Melt the butter in a heavy pot or dutch oven over high heat. When fully melted add the beef. Cook evenly let the floured sides brown.
- Add the onion and garlic and stir. Cook until translucent, stir frequently to prevent the flour and butter form burning. If there is any leftover flour add it in and stir. This creates a roux that will thicken the sauce. Add in the celery and carrots. Stir and cook another minute or two.
- Deglaze the Pan with red wine. Stir to mix. The flour and butter mixture will thicken the wine as it reduces. Cook off the alcohol for a minute or two. Then add in the Stock and herbs. Turn down the heat and allow to simmer for about an hour. At this point, test the meat to see if it is tender yet. It should still be relatively firm, but, yield to a fork.
- Add in the Potatoes and sweet potatoes. Stir them in. Add more liquid if necessary. Bring the mix back to a simmer. Allow to cook until the potatoes become tender.
- Candy the turnips. Melt butter over high heat and stir in the sugar. Bring this mix to a boil to create a caramel. Add in the turnips. Brown them evenly over medium heat, stirring as necessary to prevent burning. Add in the orange juice and bring to a boil. Stir occasionally and cook for a couple minutes until the turnips begin to soften. Add in the brussel Sprouts and season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat.
- When the stew is cooked, the sauce is relatively thick, the meat and vegetables are tender, season with salt and pepper. Then fold in the turnips and brussels. Serve with a hearty breads or popovers.