Fill That Wine Glass!
Well, if you needed an excuse to drink, today is National Drink Wine day. And, I thought that was any day ending in the suffix “day”. For those of you who don’t drink wine on a regular basis: this is a good opportunity to join the rest of the Winos here. If that isn’t “your bag“, please leave now. You will only bring yourself and everyone else in the audience down. As for all you devotees to the Dionysian arts, your day has arrived. Thankfully, we have been practicing. We Fill That Wine Glass every day, and ask, “is it National wine day yet? No? How about now?” So, today, we get it right.
I know there are people out there who shun alcohol and other pleasurable practices. Usually, they cite religious proclivities. But, that is CRAP. If you read the bible, you’ll find wine all over it (Yeah, I probably should have cleaned that up. But, now it’s soaked into the pages). Jesus turned water into wine. It was at the last supper in a refrain that Christians recite every week at church. And, if “god” didn’t want us to have wine, why did Noah plant vineyards after the flood and proceed to make wine? But, it’s not just a Christian thing. Every religion has alcohol in it’s lore, especially the Greeks and Romans (whom we can thank for civilization as we know it). The history of wine is indelibly linked to the history of the world. So, put down your scriptures and Fill That Wine Glass!
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Fill That Wine Glass and toast history
While myth credits Dionysus, son of Zeus with inventing wine, the real world has some different facts. Archaeologists cite China as having a grape/rice wine as far back as 7000 BC. And, wine showed up in Georgia (Not the one with Ted Turner, the other one related to the Soviet Union) around 6000 BC. Throughout the ancient world, wine spread through Persia, India, Sicily, to Western Europe, where the Romans developed methods to prevent spoilage of wine. And, Monks in France perfected the art of wine-making. Dom Perignon (the namesake of one of the world’s premier champagnes) was a monk himself. For a quiet, pious group of do-gooders, monks were, and continue to be, some of the best producers of alcoholic beverages in the world.
The commercial trade of wine is thought to date back to around 3000 or 4000 BC through Egypt, Canaan, and other Middle Eastern territories. Of course, modern Muslim adherents forbid alcohol. So, the area that saw the beginnings of the wine trade now have some of the toughest restrictions. The constant battle between factions over wine is a bit hypocritical, as wine has been a part of the history of religions across the spectrum. But, as with all religions (and politics), people focus on a couple passages to support their interpretation, while ignoring the vast body of evidence in their own texts that wine is actually an important part of their lore. Whether you Follow Jesus, Mohammed, Moses, or Buddah, Wine, in one form or another, is part of your heritage.
Wine in the modern era
In centuries past, local growers, small scale wineries, and importers provided wine to the masses. But, since the discovery of the new world, mass production has developed into one of the largest industries in the world. In the US alone, we are consuming close to a Billion gallons of wine per year (about 3 gallons per person). We are the world leader. But, if you look at Europe with all of its countries combined, they consume 59% of the wine in the world. And, on a per person basis, Portugal drinks more wine than any other country per year. As far as production goes: Italy is the number 1 producer, with France and Spain close behind. The USA comes in a distant 4th place, making less than half of what Italy does. Ironically, Portugal doesn’t even make the top ten list. But, I do love a fine port.
Over the years, Wine-making grew into a business more than an art. Big companies with deep pockets like Gallo and Riunite pushed out quantity over quality. They began to buy up local vineyards, and push out the mom and pop vintners. But, there remained a core of dedicated artisans. Many of them, though, couldn’t beat the system, and they had to make deals with the conglomerates to continue production under their own name, but profits would go to the parent company. The EJ Gallo company is presently the #1 wine company in the world with constellation brands a close second. Both of these companies and a dozen other corporations own some of the most iconic wineries in the world. But, it’s not all bad news for smaller vintners. The demand for artisan brands, local, farm to table, sustainable, and niche production has increased over the last few decades.
Fill that wine glass with variety
While conglomerates are gobbling up independent growers, the market for niche wines is still expanding. Oenophiles are responsible for the bad rap many varieties have received in the past. But, the proliferation of peer to peer exchanges and a revitalized experimental spirit have joined together to put underappreciated grapes into context. Most old school wine snobs were only interested in Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. These 2 are still the top varieties in the market.
But, by only focusing on the big names, the smaller varieties were seen as inferior. In reality, it’s a lot more nuanced (kind of like wine flavors). If we think of wine like music, that would be like saying: There are the Beatles and the Stones. All other bands are inferior. While this may be true to a degree, there are many bands for many occasions. You probably wouldn’t play Helter Skelter at a wedding. Someone like Stevie Wonder might be more appropriate in that setting. And, Frank Sinatra is great at a gala Event, but maybe not at a rave. The same holds true to wine: A heavy wine may be good with Pasta. But, you may want a light wine for Summer front porch sipping.
You don’t want to be judgmental until you put a wine into its proper context. The line, “if anybody orders Merlot, I’m leaving”, from the movie Sideways, comes to mind. True wine appreciation is about context.
What’s in a name?
Once there was a time when you would order a glass of wine and be met with the question: “Red, White, or Rose?”. Pompous people would ask for a Bordeaux or Chianti. And, heaven forbid you ask what year the vintage was. One of my favorite movie scenes is in the Jerk, when Steve martin says, he wants to splurge: “No more of this 1966. Bring us the fresh stuff, something from this year.” We’ve come a long way since then. People understand the difference between the various varietals and vintages.
Traditionally wines were named after the region they came from. This is still the case in some parts of the world. Most people know that champagne only comes from the Champagne region of France. Burgundies come from Burgundy, Chianti from Chianti, etc. But, the region doesn’t tell you what kind of grape you are drinking. The proliferation of Wineries in the USA brought about varietal recognition. Since we don’t name wines after the region, we use the varietal name instead. The famous Bordeaux wines are actually Cabernet Sauvignon or blends based on cabernet. So, when Californians make a Bordeaux style wine, it is called Cabernet Sauvignon. This name recognition has helped increase awareness of what grapes are good in which context.
Putting wines in context
You may have noticed that word several times in this article. I hope I am not becoming Vizzini from Princess bride: “You keep using that word. I do not think it means what you think it means.” And, he met his demise from a glass of wine. I probably will, as well, but, it will take a few years. But, context is the word I want to use here.
When the context is Venison, you want a big bold flavor that will overcome the strong gaminess of the meat. So, a Cabernet, Merlot, or Syrah would be in order. Conversely, If you are serving flounder, a delicate unobtrusive wine is called for, let’s say a Sauvinon blanc, viognier, or pinot Grigio. And, if you are on dessert, a sweeter wine like a Reisling or Gewurtztraminer is a better choice. So, when someone tells you that Cabernet Sauvignon is the best wine in the world, ask them which context they are basing that decision on. If you’re stuck in a dessert, out of water, and about to collapse from the heat, a glass of ripple will be the best thing you ever tasted. There is some context for you.
Variables
But, it gets more involved. There are the different varieties. Then, there are a wide number of variables that go into a particular wine’s characteristics. It starts with the terroire: where the grapes are grown. This sounds like a pompous word. But, it really is complicated. Terroire is the land where the grape is grown. It encompasses a lot of factors: the density of the soil, minerals in the soil, elevation (on a hillside or in a valley), Climate, weather conditions (too much rain can ruin a crop as easily as too little), drainage, the amount of sunlight, and more. Terroire and growing conditions are just the facts of how the grape comes to be. And, different terroire is required for different varietals. Cabernet thrives in one realm. Reisling prefers another. That’s why you see more Cabernet from California and more Reisling from Washington state.
Those are just the natural forces on the grape. Then comes a whole slew of other variables. Harvesting at the right time changes everything. If grapes sit on the vines too long, they sweeten and wilt. If there is a frost, the sugars intensify, and you may end up making eiswine.
Beyond the picking, comes the pressing. What temperature are they at? Skin on or off? Machine extracted or by hand or foot? Any chemicals?
Then comes the fermentation, storage (Stainless steel VS wood, etc), strains of yeast used, and more factors introduced by the vintner. There are a lot of factors to control the final product. And, even then, the final product remains a mystery until the bottle is open. So, even mass produced wines come out different every time. This is why wine artistry has such a grand following.
Fill your wine glass with a blend
While it’s hard enough to come up with a consistent product based on all the variables above. There is another layer to wine artistry: Blending varieties. Cabernet is a heavy, tannic variety. While these characteristics are desirable, sometimes it can be too much. So, many people blend Cabernet Franc and/or other varieties to mellow the wine a bit. Or, sometimes you want a unique flavor. One grape may have cherry characteristics, another may have plum, pepper, berry or other flavors. It’s like making a cocktail. But, you do it in a bottle, and wait for the results. Sometimes vintners will take grapes from different vineyards and blend them together. The possibilities are endless.
If you have ever gone to a wine tasting, you can taste a dozen different wines all made from the same variety of grape, and find each one completely different. Sometimes there is a blending. But, usually, it’s as simple as this wine spent 6 months in an oak barrel, this one was stored with wood chips, and this one was in stainless steel. We recommend trying wines yourself. If you can attend tastings, that is best. But, if that isn’t an option, ask your wine monger or read descriptions. Sometimes a blend is the best thing for whatever you are serving. Sometimes it’s a particular variety from a particular vintner.
Fill your wine glass with endless possibilities
So, now comes the part you have all been waiting for. Here’s a little cheat sheet when it comes to picking wines. Of course, the best wine is the one that happens to be handy. But, if you have to go out and buy some, here are a few things to look for:
Don’t judge a wine by the label.
Many wineries go out of their way to make a flashy label or lay claims to awards. Leave the reviewing to the pros. But, don’t just look at the ratings: read the reviews. Just because something got 90 points doesn’t mean you will like it. Remember, reviewers have certain criteria that doesn’t match yours. They can tell you about how the wine tastes like wet stone or citrus elements. But, does that really mean anything to you? When was the last time you enjoyed a glass of wet stones? Most good reviews will go in depth about the origins of the grapes, growing conditions, and characteristics of the wine. And, if they do their job right, they will recommend food pairings. These are the important parts to read.
But, like any technical jargon, you will need to interpret what they are saying. “Bracing acidity” doesn’t sound pleasant to most readers. But, it can actually mean the wine will wake up your taste buds. So, when you read a review, try to picture what they are saying. Again, context comes in. If the review says something like muted tones of grapefruit with bracing acidity, that probably isn’t a great review. But, sometimes these combinations can be meaningful. The job of a reviewer is to vicariously walk you through a mouthful of wine. It should start with the aromas, what it smells like, is there an earthiness, etc. Then, there is the initial effect as it passes your lips. What sensations occur on the tongue. How the flavors develop. And, then, how the wine goes down and what after tastes are left.
When you taste wines on your own, remember these steps. This is how you can judge for yourself.
Forget the flowery language
If you don’t want to feel pompous discussing the effects of Brettanomyces or Malolactic fermentation, it’s okay. You can use real language. How about, this wine tastes like mouse poop? Or, maybe this tastes buttery? Sometimes it is helpful to have a professional with you to point out some of the flavors you may miss. But, with time, you can pick the flavors out yourself.
And, don’t get confused when someone tells you this has strawberry or plum flavors. This doesn’t mean there are berries in the wine. It is just a way to equate what flavors are presenting themselves. This is why grapes are an amazing fruit. They can emulate the flavor of other fruits, and most of this occurs naturally, unless you buy a wine made by an unscrupulous winemaker. But, there are laws in most countries about purity in wine making, so this usually isn’t an issue.
This isn’t to say you can’t use other fruits in making wine. While 99.99% of wines available are from grapes, you can make wine from pretty much any edible source. Think of dandelion, apple, cranberry, strawberry wine, or even summer wine. But, for most of us, it’s all about the grape juice. We don’t want to be seen as a rube by elites complaining: “the wine you drink has never seen a grape.”
Relax! and fill that glass with wine
But, don’t feel obliged to drink any particular wine because it’s what the “experts” tell you. Make your own decisions. While most professionals will give great recommendations and wine pairing suggestions, it’s really up to you. We drink wine to leave our cares behind and relax. So don’t stress out over what wine goes with what. As Robin Williams once said, it’s not like the chicken’s going to lift off the plate and say, pick the red wine… But, if you don’t drink before wine shopping, you should be pretty safe with what you are drinking. I know we said don’t judge a wine by it’s label. But, there are certain things to beware of. If it says MD 20/20, warning. If it has a picture of a derelict in an alley, or a smiley faced lemon, maybe give it a pass.
And, don’t be taken in by price. Just because it’s $80 a bottle doesn’t mean you will enjoy it more than a $12 bottle of wine. If you are a seasoned Sommelier, you may be able to tell the difference. And, yes, there is a difference in most higher end wines. But, there are plenty good, and even great, wines available for under $20. So, don’t get worried about breaking the bank when you fill that wine glass.
A short list of varietals:
When it comes time to fill that wine glass, knowing a little about varietals comes in handy. Here is a brief list of some of the most available varietals out there and what to expect:
Reds:
- Cabernet Sauvignon: A heavy red wine with high tannins, dry on the palate, and available in a wide variety of styles and price points. The most popular grape used in wine. Often it is blended with other varieties like Cabernet franc and Merlot to create a more mellow, complex drinkable wine that is less
- Merlot: A close cousin to Cab, Merlot tends to be a little sweeter, fruity, and balanced than Cabernet. If you want something less assertive, but still stand up to heavy foods, Merlot is a good choice.
- Pinot Noir: a favorite of wine snobs, Pinot is a pain to grow and get right. The most famous versions come from Burgundy France. But, it is grown all over the world now. It offers complex fruity flavors when young and develops more savory flavors with age.
- Syrah or Shiraz: Another heavy wine. It is actually darker than Cabernet, higher in antioxidants, and lower in tannins and acidity. This is definitely a meat eaters wine. Heavy on dark berry flavors, it is sturdy and complex. It has different names depending on where it comes from. Some of the best versions can be found in Australia.
- Zinfandel: White zinfandel is popular, but, it is just a rose version of the true grape (More on roses later). Zinfandel, also known as primitivo, was originally from Croatia, but is most frequently found in California. This is a rich red bursting with fruit and jam flavors. Sweeter than its contemporaries, it falls in and out favor, primarily because wine aficionados want drier wines. But, it’s a flavor powerhouse.
- Other major varieties include Malbec, Sangiovese, Grenache, nebiolo, and cabenernet franc. Sangiovese is the grape used in chianti. Nebiolo is used in barolo and other Italian wines. And, the others are generally found in blends.
Whites:
- Chardonnay: The most popular white wine. This is a full bodied dry white wine with a complex array of flavors. Originally from Burgundy France, it ranges from light to heavy. Oak aged versions are strong and assertive, while stainless steel aged tend to be lighter. Chardonnay stands up to heavier foods than most white wines because it is heavier and more flavorful.
- Sauvignon Blanc: Similar to Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc hails from southern France. It’s flvor varies widely, tending to be lighter, and greener, more herbacious than chardonnay. While most are made dry, there are some wonderful, sweet versions sold as dessert wines. It’s more approachable than chardonnay in the same way merlot compares to Cabernet. And, no, it’s not the same grape as Cabernet Sauvignon.
- Reisling: A world class wine originating in Germany. Reislings are fruity, sweet wines. They range in flavor and acidity. If you want a dryer version, check the alcohol content. The lower the alcohol, the sweeter the wine. Grown in colder regions, the coldness accents the sugar content. While true reislings come from Germany and follow strict guidelines, there are some great versions from USA, especially Washington state.
- Moscato: Another super sweet wine. This one started in Italy. Sparkling versions called Moscato d’asti are very popular. It can go down like soda pop, hence the reason it is popular with the younger crowd.
- Pinot Grigio: A very light bodied and subtly flavored wine. This one is refreshing and vibrant on a summer day.
- Viognier: This is a rich complex medium bodied wine. More subtle than Chardonnay, but heavier than most whites. Where some whites lack pizzazz, this one bridges the gap.
Rose and Sparkling wine:
Also known as blush wines, rose is not a type of grape, but a method of making wine. Red wines get their color from the skins of the grapes. White wines press without skins. Roses use only some of the skin. Pretty much, any grape can become a rose or blush. The most popular is white zinfandel. As the name and concept would suggest, you get more flavor than most whites with a lighter feel. Red wines are best at room temperature. But, whites drink better at cold temperatures, making them more refreshing. many people poo poo white wine for a lack of flavor. I prefer to think of it as more refreshing. You don’t sip a glass of Cabernet to be refreshed. But, you can drink a chilled glass of rose. Sometimes you don’t want a flavor to sit on your tongue for hours.
Sparkling wines are a conundrum. Red wine aficionados malign them. But, there is true artistry in them. The first champagnes were a happy accident. The vintner had some low quality grapes. By adding sugar and performing multiple fermentations, they discovered the carbonation and sweetness masked the imperfections. Over the years, champagne making became an art form. Since it originated in the Champagne region, French laws declared that anything not from there could not be called champagne. This didn’t mean you couldn’t make it. You just have to use another name. So, we now have Asti’s and Proseccos from Italy and a variety of sparkling wines made all over the globe. In fact, some of the best sparkling wines come from Napa valley. The beauty of sparkling wine is it doesn’t rely on any one particular grape. There are even blancs de noir (White from black) versions using skinned black grapes.
Fortified Wines
Another type of wine is what we call fortified. These are high alcohol wines that usually find a home around dessert or in cooking. These are wines “fortified with a distilled spirit such as cognac. The addition of a spirit increases the alcohol content. These are your port, Marsala, vermouth, sherry, and Madeira wines. Most don’t get a lot of press. There was a time when people would have a glass of sherry for a nightcap. But, now, most are used for cooking. This is due, in large part, to the proliferation of cheap versions marketed to the cooking crowd. It is hard to find a high quality vintage fortified wine outside of a nice port these days. Although, martini drinkers do use vermouth. But, it’s mixed with vodka or gin, so the quality isn’t as important.
So, if you want a good fortified wine, 9 times out of 10, your option is a vintage port. And, believe me, those are worth trying. I once catered for a very wealthy client who opened a 1940 vintage port for a birthday party. Heaven in a glass, that’s all I’m saying. Besides that, there are a few good sherries out there. And, you can pick up a fine Amontillado still. Just be careful that you don’t drink it with Edgar Allen Poe fan. You might wake up walled into a basement.
Fill that wine glass with whatever you want
We’ve talked a lot about what goes in the glass. But, what about the glass itself? If you go shopping for wine glasses you’ll discover a dizzying array of shapes, sizes, and styles. While having the perfect glass isn’t going to make or break your experience, there are a few things to think about.
- If you are using a red solo cup, you may have a drinking problem, and it doesn’t really matter what’s inside.
- There is a reason for different glasses.
a) Red wine glasses should have a wide bowl that you can get your hand around. Red wine is best at room temperature. A wider bowl allows your hand to warm the wine. It also allows more air to interact with the wine to open up the flavor, aroma, and texture.
b) White wine glasses should be a little more narrow than red wine. You want to hold in the cold to keep them more refreshing. A stem is preferable, so you can hold the glass without warming the wine.
c) Champagne glasses should be very narrow. You have probably seen champagne coups and flutes. The coup is actually for a champagne cocktail, but is often used for straight sparkling wine. The reason you want a flute is to keep in the bubbles. A wide glass allows carbonation to escape. Thinner glasses hold them in.
There are dozens of glasses designed for particular types of wine. But, don’t get bogged down in semantics. Just remember: Red is warm’ish, White is cold, bubbles should be contained. Otherwise, have be more concerned with what you fill that wine glass with.
A couple more notes on tasting
As our friend Vincent Price showed us, there is a method to tasting wine. It may look foolish. But, it does expose all of the characteristics of a wine. However, let’s stop a minute to think about how we drink wine? When you drink a glass, do you sniff, swirl, huff, and slosh? No. You open your mouth and pour it in. I’ve done many tastings where I used the proper method and found myself enthralled with a particular vintage. But, a week later, with friends, it came across as brash and acidic. Again, it’s the context. So, when you taste wines, do it in stages. First, try it like a pro:
- Don’t fill that wine glass to the brim. Pour a small amount. Lift the glass, look at the color of the wine. Swirl it to see how thick it is, how it moves. Let the wine settle into the glass. Watch the “legs” as it leaves thin or thick streaks.
- Smell the wine. Stick your nose in the glass, inhale. Sense the aromas. Do you smell vanilla, oak, smoke, fruit?
- Sip. See how it feels as it passes your lips. The flavors at the front, middle, sides, and back of your tongue. Swish it around, see what happens when the flavors wash over your tongue. Then swallow it to see how it feels going down. Wait a bit. See how long the flavors and sensations linger. Some people say to spit the wine. But, that’s to stay sober. Swallowing is part of the tasting experience.
Taste for real
Now that you have tasted “the right way”, and picked up on all sorts of flavors, smells, sensations, and nuances, try again. This time, drink like you normally would. Go ahead, gulp, burp, whatever it is you do. This is how the wine will taste and feel when you are in the real world.
To fill that Wine Glass, Further research is necessary
When you look at all the factors that go into wine, it’s no wonder it is such a passion to people throughout the world. People spend whole lifetimes in search of the perfect glass of wine. And, it is a noble pursuit, even though, as mentioned above, the best glass of wine is the one you are having at this moment. There is no absolute perfection, only perfect moments. So, It is your prerogative, nay, your duty to pursue perfect moments. So, here is your homework assignment for the rest of your life:
Start by Filling your wine glass with whatever wine you have on hand. Then, read some of our wine related posts like Wine and cheese day or Prosecco day. After a little wine, they will probably read better. Then, spend the rest of your life trying new wines. Try tasting by both methods. Enjoy your life and relax, Just keep that wine glass full (in moderation of course).
What to serve with the wine?
When we fill that wine glass repeatedly to taste different wines, it is important to “cleanse the palate” between wines. And, you need to taste in an order that will allow your palate to adjust. If you start with a heavy assertive wine, your taste buds will be overwhelmed and you won’t pick up on the flavors of the lighter wines. We suggest you start with white wines and work up to reds. And, you want to arrange the tasting order by the heaviness and pungency of the wines. So, start with a light white, like a pinot grigio, then to sauvignon blanc, to chardonnay, to a rose, to pinto noir, to merlot, to cabernet. These are just examples. Learn the characteristics of the varieties you are tasting, and arrange them in order.
Between each taste, you need to cleanse the palate with a neutral food product like crackers or bread. Otherwise, you will keep on tasting the last wine, and the new wine will be lost in the shuffle. Also, don’t forget to rinse the glass with water to remove residue. And, drink some water yourself to rinse out the flavors and prepare your taste buds for what’s next.
remember, when you fill that wine glass, it helps to have something to eat. Nothing goes with wine better than cheese. So, here’s a recipe for Gougeres that is bound to fill the bill and absorb some of that wine. Plus, it serves as a great palate cleanser.
Salud!
Rosemary Goat Cheese Gougeres
Ingredients
- 1 Cup Milk
- 4 Oz Unsalted Butter
- 1 Cup AP flour
- 4 large Eggs
- 1 Cup Gruyere cheese shredded
- 1/2 Cup Crumbled Goat Cheese
- 1/2 tsp Fresh Ground Nutmeg
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Rosemary
- Kosher salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 400
- Bring milk and butter to a boil in a heavy pot. Then stir in the flour with a wooden spoon. Stir frequently until the dough pulls away from the pan. Continue to cook for another minute , stirring continuously to prevent burning.
- Remove dough to a mixing bowl. Whip in the eggs, one at a time. Make sure each one is fully incorporated before adding the next one. This is easiest if done in a mixer. But, it can be done by hand if you want a bit of a workout. Add seasonings and rosemary. Then fold the two cheeses in by hand. Make sure the goat cheese doesn't break down too much. You want creamy pockets in the puff. Have a little extra gruyere to sprinkle on top.
- Line sheet pans with parchment paper or a non stick liner. Put the dough in a pastry bag. You can use a star tip or plain tip. Pipe mounds of the dough about the size of a quarter onto the lined sheet pans. Leave enough space between each to expand. Sprinkle a little extra cheese on top for visual effect.
- bake for about 20 minutes. If they still look a little pale, give a couple more minutes. They should have an even brownish hue. And, when you tap them, they should be crisp on the outside with a hollow sound inside.
- Serve hot. They can be made ahead of time and reheated at 350 degrees for a few minutes if necessary. Serve by themselves or with a nice fondue or tomato sauce.