So, Are you seeing red, yet?

It’s that time again. We had national wine day, drink wine day, and national wine and cheese day. Now, we get a little more specific. For, today is national red wine day. While some people feel there is no other wine than red wine, others beg to differ. But, we’ll save those for other days. Because this day will only focus on one color. Time to celebrate Cabernet Sauvignon, Chianti, Merlot, Pinot noir, Malbec, Syrah, Tempranillo, and a host of other varieties. So, Are you seeing red, yet?

As you can see form this abbreviated list, Red wines come in a diverse variety. So, when the waiter says: “red, white, or rose?”, either demand more specificity or go to a more erudite establishment. We aren’t suggesting you be a wine snob. But, having a basic knowledge of the difference between Merlot and Pinot noir goes a long way. I know it seems daunting. People spend their entire lives developing a palate for wines and distinguishing various vintages. Whatever floats your boat. There is nothing wrong with being passionate about something. For the rest of us, just knowing a few basics is plenty. We’re not asking you to relive the Cask of Amontillado.

Leave the in depth education of current vintages and specialties to your local wine-monger. But, learn some of the basic ideology that will help you make a well informed decision when choosing a wine for dinner. Pairing an appropriate wine for a particular dish doesn’t have to be a scientific endeavor.

Exploring wines will have you saying: So, Are you seeing red, yet?

You don’t need to know the difference between a kvevri and a Barrique or tell botrytis from brettanomyces to understand wines. You only need to excite your senses. If you don’t feel comfortable with the terminology, how about “it smells good” instead of it has a “floral bouquet”? Wine snobs make wine intimidating on purpose. They don’t want the uneducated infringing on their piece of paradise. Granted, when you get into wines that cost hundreds or thousands of dollars, you do want to know what you’re getting. But, to enjoy a $10 or $20 bottle, you don’t need to be a sommelier. But, you do want to develop an ability to recognize certain flavor characteristics.

You will read or hear that a wine has notes of cherry, vanilla, spice, red berries, and wet stone. The wine contains none of these. It is all grape. But, these are flavors that develop during the wine making process. So, why not say “it tastes like grapes”? Good question. Well, there are about 10,000 varieties of grape grown across the world. While there are similarities, the difference between 2 grapes is vast, and we need descriptors to differentiate. Think of it like this, When someone asks, “what do frog’s legs taste like”, the answer is usually: “Tastes like chicken”. Since we only get a limited variety of grapes in the supermarket, most people don’t eat gamay, zinfandel, cabernet, or pinot noir grapes straight. So, to describe them, we need to compare them to other fruits that people readily recognize (just like comparing exotic foods to chicken).

What to look for:

Price

If you aren’t a wine connoisseur, or even if you have some expertise, the world of wine can be daunting. But, if you learn to distinguish good from bad, you will be fine. Chances are, you won’t find a lot of bad, unless you get into bargain wines. Winemaking is an art. If you are paying $8 for a 5 liter box of wine, there probably isn’t a lot of artistry there. Inflation and the modern market dictate a going price for a good bottle of wine. In most wine stores, expect to pay at least $10 for a good bottle of wine. But, don’t be afraid to bargain hunt. I am lucky to have a great discount wine purveyor near me, called Bin Ends wine. They buy end run vintages for pennies on the dollar. I’ve gotten wines that drink like a $30 bottle for $5 to $10.

Keep an eye out for rebates and incentives. Most liquor stores offer volume discounts. So, if you buy 6 or 12 bottles you get a percentage off. Plus, buying in bulk saves trips to the store, saving gas, and more money. While some rebates and discounts apply to single wines, most stores offer a mix and match volume discount. Rebates can add up too. I’ve bought cases for $72, then gotten $3 per bottle rebates, meaning $36 per case. So, you are paying $3 per bottle. But, don’t expect to find pricing like that outside a specialty discounter. Most good reds fall in the $20 to $30 range. But, some can cost hundreds or thousands of dollars. Unless you’re Elon Musk, some wine prices will have you saying So, Are you seeing red, yet?

Reviews and recommendations

But, don’t let price be the only determining factor. You can definitely get burned buying cheap wine. While some stores will let you sample some wines, that is not a given. So, start with a little research. And, if you order wines online, you can only go with what you read. So, know what to look for. You may see something advertised as 95 points. But, if the reviewing body is reader’s digest: warning. Look for reviews from Wine enthusiast, Robert Parker’s wine advocate, or Wine Spectator. These publications tend to be the most reputable and consistent. Ask for recommendations from a wine expert if available at your wine store as well. But, if the wine expert is Hank Hill, stick with the professional reviewers.

There is a company called 90 plus cellars. They guarantee their wines receive over 90 points from major reviewers, and sell at a reasonable price. This is a pretty safe bet for a good wine. But, remember, the reviews are based on a subjective set of criteria. You need to read the reviews for characteristics. You’ll hear a lot about bracing acidity, long finishes, and flavors of wet stone. You need to imagine how these elements blend together. Think of how you intend to serve the wine, and how these characteristics play with each other. So, if you want a porch sipper, you’ll want something that doesn’t need food to compliment it. Conversely, if it’s a pasta and red sauce night, you’ll want something bold and assertive to cut the acidity and heaviness of the dish.

So, Are you seeing red, yet? Let’s talk varieties

Despite there being 10,000 types of grapes, not all find their way into wine. Generally speaking, there are about 50 varieties in the wine market consistently. While some can be the only variety in a bottle, most wines actually are a blend of wines. Bordeaux wines are world famous. The predominant grape is Cabernet Sauvignon. But, it is usually blended with varieties like Cabernet franc and Merlot to create a complex wine with multiple layers of flavors, tannins, and nuances. Another popular combination is GSM (Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre). These wines are fruit forward with a lot of herb accents. While there is always a predominant grape, many famous regions produce blended wines built off that central variety. Chianti, Rioja, Hermitage, Meritage, Burgundy, Barolo, Montepulciano, and port are more examples.

So, Are you seeing red, yet? Here is an abbreviated list of major varietals

• Cabernet Sauvignon: The major grape of Bordeaux and Napa valley. Characteristics include bell peppers, olives, cherries, herbs

• Merlot: Grown better in colder climes, some of the best come from Washington State. Usually needs a blend to give it the oomph of a Cabernet. Fruity wine that boasts watermelon, strawberry, cherry, or plum flavors.

• Pinot Noir: A difficult grape to control, it tends to be lighter and more refreshing than the heavier Cabernet and Merlot. Pinot is the predominent grape in Burgundy, and finds its way into champagne as well. Beet root, pale cherry, plum, blackberry, and cola are descriptors.

• Syrah/Shiraz: Popular in California and Washington state, this is also known as Shiraz in Australia. This grape is heavy and boisterous. It tends to be peppery with hints of clove, blackberry, plum, and boysenberry.

• Gamay: This is the predominant grape of Beaujolais. Unlike most red wines, it does not age well. So, you drink this one young. Beaujolais Nouveau comes out every year, and is intended to be drunk at that time. Fruit forward, this smacks of Strawberry, Cherry, and raspberry.

• Grenache: Widely used in Spain, Chateauneuf du pape, and cotes du rhone, This is a spicy cherry flavored wine similar to a Syrah, but smoother.

• Malbec: Best known as a blending grape in Bordeaux, there are many fine examples of malbec as a predominant grape. Sour Cherry and spice are hallmarks.

• Mourvedre: A spicy cherry flavored grape from the Mediterranean, This usually ends up in blends like the GSM mentioned above. Popular in Australia, California, Washington, France, and Spain.

• Nebiolo: One of the Great Italian Grapes. It’s the prime grape of Barolo and Barbaresco. Plum and Cherry pie are characteristics.

• Tempranillo: The major grape of Rioja, Spain. It is medium bodied with flavors of plum, fig, tomato, cherry, and vanilla.

• Sangiovese: The central grape in Chianti and other Italian wines. Cherry, Plum, red currant, and smokiness are all part of this grape.

• Zinfandel: Native to California. This is a fruit forward wine without the heavy tannins of Cabernet. It smacks of raspberry, Blackberry, Black Cherry, raisins, and Prunes. Coming from such sweet grapes, the alcohol content of Zinfandel tends to be high, reaching 15 or 16% in some cases (as opposed to an average of under 12% for most wines).

The perfect blender

While you can get all of these varieties as their own flavor, they are seldom found on their own. Blending grapes is what vintners get paid the big bucks for. Some vintners use their own grapes. Others import from nearby vineyards or blend from different vines across the region. Grapes develop different characteristics depending on where they grow. Mountainside growing accents different things than valley grown, The drainage of soil, minerality, amount of sun, ambient temperature, and more factors play into the final product.

It’s common to see a company like Kendall Jackson or Robert Mondavi produce a wine in Napa Valley with grapes grown in Mendocino or Santa Barbara. Terms like “Estate Grown” or “Mis en bouteille au château” denote that the grapes and wine are produced at the vintner’s estate. Traditionally, these are considered the best wines. But, that doesn’t have to be the case. There is nothing wrong with importing wines from a different vineyard or consortium, if the grapes are grown in conditions conducive to the desired characteristics. If you grow some great Cabernet, but need a good blending wine, it’s okay to import it, if the end product is a smooth, complex wine.

Read your labels. Again, companies like Mondavi have multiple levels of wine. They have classic, reserve, and their budget line “Woodbridge”. The difference in price will make you say “So, Are you seeing red, yet?”.

Domestic or imported

There was a time when this question was derogatory toward American wines. But, the American wine industry has come a long way. Old world wineries laid claim to the best wines in the world. And, that reputation skewed the international perception. While Château Lafite Rothschild makes some of the world’s most expensive wines, that doesn’t mean all French wines are superior. In the 1970’s some American wineries joined competitions and fared well against their “old world” counterparts. And, since then, viticultural science has progressed. American wines are on par, and in some cases, better than, their European Peers. But, it’s not just America. Australia, South Africa, and Chile are now major wine producers. In fact, some of the Greatest French chateaus now have vineyards in these “new world” areas.

The Rothschild family owns a vineyard in Chile called Los Vascos. You can get a world class wine, produced by one of the top, most expensive vintners in the world for $10 to $20 a bottle. Remember, it’s about the soil, growing environment, or “terroir”. France doesn’t have an exclusive on the best growing conditions. remember, grapes like pinot noir require special attention and conditions. A mountain at 35 degrees south of the equator can display similar attributes to a Hillside in Provincial France. It’s about the terroir. And, if you can grow great grapes in a remote area for a fraction of the cost, why not. What was once like another planet, has vintners saying “so, are you seeing red yet?”.

What are we drinking?

Now that you have an idea of types of wine, it’s time to taste them. Wine tasting doesn’t have to be an exercise in pomposity. But, there are a few steps to take to experience a wine for what it is. Our exploration of wine from National Drink Wine day, will give a good idea of how to properly taste wines. But, here’s a bit of a recap. While there is method behind the madness of a wine expert methodically aerating and testing wines, you need to take a 2 or more step approach to deciding which wine is right for you.

First, take an analytical approach. Place a small amount of wine in a glass. Swirl it to allow air in. Observe how the wine drips down the sides of the glass. It will leave “legs” (Streaks where it settles back into the glass). The legs tell you about the viscosity of the wine. If they are thick, expect a heavier wine. Take a sip. Swish it around your mouth. Let it dance over your tongue to see what flavors and sensations it excites on different parts of the tongue. Try to pick out characteristics like cherry, plum, spice, etc. Inhale to allow air in with the wine. This will wake up different aspects of the wine. Then spit or swallow. This exercise will show you things about a wine that you may miss.

Now, again, with feeling

Then, do it again. But, this time, drink it like you normally would. This is what you will be drinking. Noone, but a pompous ass, sits there swirling and aerating every mouthful of wine when they drink. Chances are, you’re just having it with dinner. So, try it with and without food. Know what you really like about a wine. Just because Robert Parker says its great, doesn’t mean its for you. And, it really depends on the context. Swilling, sipping, or Suppering.

so, are you seeing red yet? Food alright? Try the wine.

While white and rose wines tend to be refreshing, reds are more hardy. This is why some people poo poo white wines. They want to be inundated with flavor. Whites can be subtle. But, reds are bold and expressive. It’s like the difference between red and white meat. Just remember, though, that the difference between a Cabernet and a Pinot noir is vast.

To that end, here are a couple pointers. We already listed characteristics of different grapes above. But, here is a short example of lighter vs heavier.

Medium or heavy:

If you want a lighter red wine that doesn’t hit you over the head with too much flavor, one that can even withstand a slight chill, try Pinot Noir, Gamay, or Grenache.

For Big, heavy reds, try Cabernet, Syrah, or nebiolo. Your Chiantis and Bordeaux wines tend to be heavier as well. And, there is a south African blend: pinotage that is a mouthfull. It is a variation of hermitage using cinsalt and Pinot noir grapes. The result is a smokey red wine. Be careful though, the smoke flavor can be overbearing.

Then there are your medium wines that are not as tannic or ascerbic. I put Zinfandel, merlot, and Tempranillo into this category. They are fruit forward, but, smoother. While tannins and acidity are desired in some situations, sometimes you want something to just go down smooth.

Of course, it’s rare to get a straight grape varietal in a wine. Even the best Cabernets have 10 to 20% blending wines. So, again, talk to your wine expert, and read the labels and reviews. Remember, wine making is an art. And, half the art is the story. So, are you seeing red yet?

Where you from?

The story behind where a wine comes from can have great impact on the enjoyment of the wine. If you have ever visited any vineyards, you know how special they are. The rolling hills, the vines, the air, and the stories of how the vintner picked this location can all be as intoxicating as the wine itself. And, now there are new considerations, like sustainably grown, harvested and produced wines. The use of organic pesticides and growing methods are also forefront. One of the first vintners I met was a member of the Lolonis Family of Northern California. This was about 40 years ago. And, they were using ladybugs to control pests. This was long before the current environmental concern. They were way ahead of the curve. And, it’s a story that has stuck with me for all these years.

So, get out there. Attend wine tastings or visit vineyards. Of course, take COVID precautions. And, support smaller, local wineries as much as possible. Sometimes, the best wine isn’t technically the best. It’s the wine you connect with. Just like a good story resonates, the backstory and location of a winery can impact its enjoy-ability. If you can’t get to a local winery, find out what your local wine store carries. If they start talking about white, say, So, are you seeing red yet? For today is about red wine. Next week, ask about whites.

With all this wine, you’ll need a base

While Drinking wine by itself can be fun, usually, it goes best with food. And, red wines are definitely, heavily, food dependent. Since they are, generally, heavier, a heartier food item is a good accent. That’s why most people recommend red wines with red meat. But, they also work well with lighter foods, even desserts. Again, it depends on the variety of grape. I wouldn’t recommend a Pinotage with a lemon sorbet. But, try something like a Zinfandel with a Poached pear tart, and, you’re in heaven.

And, if you plan on drinking a lot of red wine, be prepared. You will want some food to absorb it. And, Cheese is always a good choice. Bread, cheese, and wine go together like peanut butter and chocolate. So, if nothing else, pair wine and cheese. Add in some fruits, and you’re on your way to a bacchanalian adventure to remember (or not, if you overdo it).

But, don’t stop at wine and cheese. Dinner is best with red wine. Ask any Italian. It’s just part of life. And, you can cook with red wine too. It’s a great base for sauces, marinades, glazes, and braising. Even a simple pot roast with a red wine infusion can warm the cockles of your heart.

So, are you seeing red, yet? Serve it with food.

Julia Child used to talk about a little wine for the food and for the cook. So, today, we present a recipe with a little wine that goes well with a glass of wine. It’s a blue cheese tart with red wine poached pear. We suggest a nice port to go with it. But, any wine will do. It’s sweet and savory at the same time. So, it can be an appetizer or dessert.

Of course, you could also do something like a red wine braised pot roast or something hardier. But, we like these tarts a as a simple, yet elegant foil for any type of wine. Especially red. So, are you seeing red yet?

Salud!

Bleu Cheese Mousse tart with Port Poached Pear

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 20 minutes mins

Cook Time 1 hour hr

Course Appetizer, Dessert

Cuisine American, French

Servings 24 Mini Tarts

Ingredients

  

• For tart shell:
• 1 Cup Flour
• 1/2 Cup Chilled Butter
• 1 large Egg yolk
• 1 Tbsp Sugar
• 2 Tbsp Cold Water
• 1/2 tsp Salt
• For Blue Cheese Mousse
• 1/2 Lb Soft Blue Cheese
• 1/2 Lb Cream Cheese
• 1/4 Cup Honey
• 1 Tbsp Sour Cream
• For Poached Pear:
• 2 to 3 Medium Fresh Pears
• 1 Bottle Port Wine
• 1 Cup Sugar
• 2 Each Cinnamon Sticks
• 1 Each Fresh Orange
• 2 Tbsp Sliced Fresh Ginger
• 1 Each Vanilla Bean, split

Instructions

 

• Make the tart shells: Chop the butter into pea sized pieces. Mix the dry ingredients in a bowl. Then mix the butter in with the flour mix until it begins to form a dough. Add in the water and egg yolk. Continue kneading until a solid dough forms. Allow to rest for at least 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Then, roll out and place the dough into miniature rounds. Place in tart baking pans. You can do minis or a large. For our purposes, we prefer mini. Poke the bottoms of the shells with a fork. Bake the shells for about 20 minutes until golden brown. You may want to blind bake by lining the shells with foil and weighing that down with dry beans or rice. When baked, remove from oven and allow to completely cool.
• Poach the pears: Peel and core the pears. Cut them in half for the poaching. Place all ingredients except pears into a pot and bring to a boil. Allow the sugar to completely melt. Then, place the pears in the liquid and bring to a simmer. Allow the fruit to soften, yet maintain a bit of a crunch. Check after about 15 minutes. They should be done. Give a little more time if necessary. Remove the cooked pears from the liquid. Then, continue cooking the liquid down until it becomes a thick syrup. You will drizzle this on the final tart.
• make the Mousse: Puree the bleu cheese until smooth, with few chunks. This can be done in a food processor or mixing bowl. Whip the cream cheese in a stand mixer and fold in the remaining ingredients. It should be fluffy. Be careful not to overwhip or it will become too loose.
• Assemble: Cut the pears into appropriate size for the tarts. Pipe the mousse into the shells using a pastry bar with or without a tip. Top with the poached pears and drizzle or brush on the port syrup. Serve immediately or refrigerate for later use.

Keyword Appetizer, Bleu Cheese, dessert, Mousse, pastry, Pear, Poached, Port, red wine, Tart