A little Grenache for Granada

In our continuing saga of Days dedicated to Wine, we take on another of the unsung heroes in the wine world. Cabernet, Merlot, and Pinot Noir get all the press when it comes to red wines. So, it’s time to look at some of the other reds. Today is national Grenache day. So, what do you say: how about A little Grenache for Granada? Why Granada? Beside the obvious Alliteration, Grenada was once a respected wine making country (and grenache is one of the varieties they produce). And, like Grenache, Granada doesn’t get the respect it deserves. Or, conversely, we could call it a well kept secret.

Grenache is seldom found on its own. Most people know it under a different name. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, abbreviated GSM, is the common blend used in Cotes Du Rhone wine. And, this combination finds itself in other wines as well. The blend creates a memorable experience. Before you complain that it can’t stand on its own, remember that most of your more popular wine varieties rarely go without a blending variety. Bordeaux uses Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon as well as other varieties to create a proprietary blend. Bourgone is Pinot Noir and Gamay, and Chianti is Sangiovese with canaiolo, and others. Again, what’s in a name? Grenache itself also goes by the name Garnacha in Spanish regions where it originated. And, it’s time to give both Grenache and Granada their day in the sun.

A little Grenache for Granada goes a long way

Granada has a checkered history. First, it’s very confusing, because there are actually 2 vastly different places with similar names. There is Grenada, an island in the Caribbean known for it’s beautiful beaches, European colonization, and the US invasion during the Reagan years. And, there is Granada, a city on the Iberian Peninsula in Spain. When I started researching for this article, I was thinking of the Island. Despite typing in Grenada, my searches told me about the wine history of Granada. Grenada does make “grapeless” wine using tropical fruits. While Granada has a couple dozen wine producers growing a variety of grapes including Tempranillo, Cabernet, Pinot Noir, and of course: Garnacha (AKA grenache).

And, we have another twist to the name game as well. The Ford Granada was a mid sized sedan in the US from 1975 to 1983. My brother drove one around the time they first came out. Ford based it on a European version. The intent was a more fuel efficient vehicle with some more “luxury” touches for people looking to downsize.

Differences and similarities

Both the island and the city/region of Spain also have Geo-political issues in their history. The Island had Spanish, French, and British occupiers. In the 1980’s it was famously invaded by the US under Ronald Reagan. Recently, there has been a tourism push by the Island, so it appears they are reaching some stasis in their political situation. And, tourists can enjoy the natural beauty.

The region and city of Granada was a Muslim stronghold until a ten year war from 1482 to 1492 when Isabella and Ferdinand, with the backing of the Catholic church, took it back for Spain. Coincidentally, she also commissioned Columbus to discover the new world around the same time. He landed in the Caribbean, where the Island Grenada is. Meanwhile Granada underwent a forced population shift. Muslims and Jews were either converted or moved out of the region. Over the next few hundred years, it became more Spanish. Then, Napoleon claimed it for the French from 1810 to 1812. Then, in the 1930’s Granada became a bastion for rebels in the Spanish Civil war. Consequently, Franco repressed the area, making it one of the poorest regions of Spain. In recent years, it has become a tourist destination, not unlike it’s similarly named island sibling.

Is Garnacha The Grenache of Granada?

More fun with alliteration. Some vintners claim that Garnacha means wine of Granada. But, that doesn’t really hold water since most Garnacha in Spain comes from the Rioja region, where much of it is blended with Tempranillo. And, to further complicate things, Garnacha is also an appetizer famous in Belize: Tortilla rounds topped with cabbage, refried beans, and cheese. So, while some Garnacha comes from Granada, they can’t lay claim to the variety. In fact, Grenache is one of the most planted grape varieties in the world.

But, Granada does have a perfect climate for the grape. While Pinot Noir prefers cooler temperatures. And, most popular wines do best in temperate zones, Grenache does best in hotter climates. So, Granada, being a short distance from Gibraltar, fits that bill nicely. It also has plenty of hills to create a good home for grape cultivation.

Worldwide phenomenon

As mentioned above, Grenache is one of the most planted grape varieties in the world. This isn’t an accident. It blends well. Where some wines are too much, Grenache is well balanced: not too tannic or acidic, and, not too thin and delicate. On the scale of red wines, it comes in as medium to full bodied. It’s fruit forward with a sturdy structure. Flavors of Orange rind, Plum, raspberry, and tobacco are common descriptors. And, it boasts white pepper notes as well.

Yet, there are wide variations depending on where the grapes grow. Given Spain’s warmer climate, their wines tend to have a higher alcohol content and more fruity characteristics. Meanwhile French varieties, from cooler regions are more floral with notes of lavender, oregano, and cinnamon.

Plus, don’t forget it gets along well with others. The classic GSM blend wins over wine fans around the globe. While Cabernet and Pinot Noir have their fan base, This trio fills the wide gap left in between the heavy, dry, tannic cabs and Syrahs and the delicate fruity Pinot. This trilogy (and grenache itself) is, indeed, a powerhouse that pairs well with everything from Barbecue to fish. Of course, you would want a heartier fish like tuna or swordfish. But, it definitely is versatile.

For any meal

Now that you know a bit about the wine, it’s time to pair it with something that says it’s national Grenache day. And, September is the perfect time to enjoy it. Summer is on its way out, with fall coming in fast. Being a medium bodied wine, it goes well with the cuisine of this particular “shoulder season”. You can sip some while watching the leaves turn. And, after drinking white through the summer, bringing a little color back while the outside colors are changing seems apropos.

This is one of the best times to create good food using local ingredients. We still have great summer ingredienst. And, fall ingredients are starting to come out. No, we’re not talking about PSL. Hell, NO! Let’s replace that with GSM. It’s been around a lot longer, and, it’s so much better.

So, let’s try something along the lines of comfort food that isn’t deep autumn warming and filling. Something that captures the essence of the season. Here in New England, it’s cranberry season. Harvesting begins right around now. What better time to incorporate a local berry in food that will complement the berry and fruit attributes of our good Friend Grenache. While we’re at it, let’s have a little Grenache for Granada. And, since we started talking about Granada, why not try some Spanish cooking as well? Check out our recipes below. Maybe a little tapas is in order tonight.

Salud!

Torta Espanola With spicy tomato Romesco Sauce

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 15 minutes mins

Cook Time 40 minutes mins

Course Tapas

Cuisine American, Spanish

Servings 4 Tapas Portions

Ingredients

  

• 6 Large Eggs
• 1 Cup heavy Cream
• Kosher Salt and pepper to Taste
• Olive Oil For Cooking
• 1 Cup Diced Spanish Onion
• 1 Cup 1/2 Inch Cubed Yukon Gold Potatoes
• 1 Tbsp Chopped parsley
• 1 Tsp Chopped Fresh Thyme
• For Sauce:
• 1/2 Cup Diced Spanish Onion
• 1 Tsp Chopped Fresh garlic
• 1 Cup Home roasted Fresh Red Bell Pepper (may Substitute Canned or jarred)
• 1 Cup Home roasted Fresh Tomatoes in Olive oil (Also, jarred versions acceptable for time sake)
• olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1/2 cup Red Wine
• 2 Tbsp Sliced or slivered Almonds
• 1 Cup vegetable stock
• 1/2 Tsp Hot sauce
• 1 tsp Chopped Fresh Oregano
• 1 tsp Chopped Fresh parsley

Instructions

 

• Preheat oven to 400
• Heat a cast iron skillet over high heat. Saute the onion and potato, stirring frequently until they are soft. Meanwhile, in a mixing bowl, beat the eggs and mix with the cream, salt, pepper and herbs. Add a little more olive oil to the onions and potatoes. Then fold the egg mixture into the pan, mix everything well. Then, place the pan in the oven. Allow it to cook for about 10 to 15 minutes. Check the consistency. It should be firm to the touch. If not, give it a little more time.
• When the Torta is cooked, Remove from the oven. Allow it to cool for at least 5 minutes. Cut wedges and serve with heated Romesco sauce.

Notes

This version of the Spanish classic tapas dish is similar to a frittata. For best results make it in a pan with high sides, as it puffs up a bit in the oven.

The directions here call for baking a full size torta and cutting wedges for a rustic look. But, you can do individuals as well for a different presentation. I find using 4 ounce foil cups or muffin tins sprayed with pan spray work well. This way, you just pop the torta out on the plate for nice clean lines.

Keyword Espanola, Frittata, New Years, Spanish, Tapas, Torta

new England Garlic Rubbed Steak with Wild Mushroom Ragout

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 10 minutes mins

Cook Time 20 minutes mins

marinate 1 hour hr

Course Main Course

Cuisine American, New England

Servings 4 people

Ingredients

  

• 4 each Beef Steak (high quality: Sirloin, Tenderloin, or a flat steak for tenderness)
• 1/4 cup Whole peeled garlic cloves
• 1 cup olive oil
• 1/4 cup chopped Fresh herbs
• Salt and pepper to taste
• For Ragout:
• 1/4 cup diced bacon
• 1 tsp chopped fresh garlic
• 1/2 cup diced onion
• 2 cups chopped fresh wild mushrooms (a variety is best, vary the cuts for texture and visual appeal)
• 1 cup diced fresh tomato
• 1/2 cup red wine
• 2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

Instructions

 

• Bring the oil to a boil and then turn back to heat over low heat with the garlic in it. Allow to simmer until the garlic becomes soft. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
• Use a stick blender to puree the garlic in the oil. Then add in the chopped herbs and season.
• Rub the garlic oil over the steaks and allow them to marinate for about an hour
• Render bacon in a heavy gauge pot or pan until the fat runs freely and the meat begins to caramelize. Add in the onion and garlic and stir. cook until translucent. Then add in the mushrooms. Stir and continue to cook until they have softened. Then add the wine and balsamic. Cook down the liquid until it becomes a glaze. Then add in the tomatoes and cook over medium heat for about a minute until they are softened, but still whole. Fold in the herbs and seasoning and remove from heat.
• Drain off some of the marinade from the steaks, as the oil will cause flares on the grille. Grille the steaks over high heat, a few minutes per side until cooked to your desired temperature. Check the temperature with a meat thermometer. For medium rare, remove from the heat tat around 120 to 125 degrees.
• Serve the steak with the mushroom ragout. If you used a flank steak of flat steak, slice before serving. Allow a few minutes to rest before cutting to avoid the juices leaking out.

Keyword Garlic Rubbed, Hanger steak, New England, ragout, rustic, Wild Mushroom