Albarino rolls off the tongue
When you think of wine, chardonnay, cabernet, merlot, and pinot come to mind. While those are the most popular varietals, don’t think they are your only choices. Today is one of those days to discover more flavors. It’s Albarino day. Try saying that a couple times: Albarino, rolls off the tongue. doesn’t it? If you aren’t familiar with it, you don’t drink enough Spanish and Portuguese wines. Also known as Alvarinho, it is a white wine grape that may or may not be a clone of Riesling (according to rumors). It is a grape that, generally likes warmer regions, it flourishes in many environments. The Rias Braixas, DO in Spain and Vhino Verde region in Portugal are the most prolific growers of the grape. But, its popularity is spreading. Some vintners now grow it in California, Oregon, and Washington state, as well as Australia.
Albarino is at its best when it rolls off your tongue and into your belly. And, that’s what today is all about: enjoying this mysterious wine. Rumors say it may be a clone from Alsace. Others claim French Monks brought if from Burgoyne. But, forensics say it is a native species to Portugal. And, it even goes by different names. In the Galician region of Northwest Spain, Albarino is common. But, in Portugal, the Alvarinho pronunciation rules. But, it also goes by Cainho Branco. And, the rumor that it’s a clone of Riesling seems made up since it has been in use since at least 1200 AD, compared to 1500. Also, Riesling is usually sweet, while Albarino is dry. Although, many compare Albarino to Gewürztraminer, Viogner, and Petit Manseng. All three of those grapes receive praise from wine enthusiasts worldwide.
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When Albarino Rolls off the tongue, you know its a good day
White wines, in general, don’t get a proper appreciation. Many wine snobs and connoisseurs look to red wines for complexity. But, this is a fallacy. While reds tend to be big on fruit and tannin, whites are more subtle. If you drink a Cabernet, flavors like Plums, berries, and cherry envelop your tastebuds. But, Albarino is more understated with hints of apricot, pear, citrus, and a refreshing salinity. And, there is a floral aroma redolent of these fruits as well as honeysuckle, and even beeswax according to some experts.
Here it is, August in the temperate zone. Temperatures are soaring. So, which would you rather have: a Cabernet, Merlot or Syrah that lingers on the palate and warms the soul, or a refreshing light wine dancing with citrus tones that pairs perfectly with summer fair like seafood? There is an artistry to fine wines. And, part of that art is how it fits in various situations. While reds can overcome strong flavors like lamb and red sauce, Albarino works perfect with lighter fair. Not everything has to be a competition of flavors. Albarino makes a better complement than competitor. And, isn’t that what life should be?
Green Wine?
In Portugal, Vinho Verde is a very popular wine made of 5 or 6 varietals. It usually has a slight carbonation. And, it’s relatively cheap. Vinho Verde translates to Green wine. Aged only 3 to 6 months before release, they are low in alcohol, and have a bracing acidity. If you are a red wine drinker, the whole experience can be a bit of a turn off. But, on a hot summer day, Flavors of lemonade, honeydew, grapefruit, and lime blossoms may win you over. Again, it’s part perception, part context.
How can a cheap under-aged wine be any good? Again, we turn to context. As with any art form, wine making draws on subtlety, shading, nuance, and environment. The Vinho Verde growing region sits at the northwest corner of Portugal. It stretches from a steamy Atlantic ocean to the mountainous border of Spain. Most of the climate here is conducive to White wine viticulture. But, in the mountains, reds are more viable. Port wine also comes from this area. So, we know the quality of the grapes is superb. And, Vinho Verde works well with the cuisine of the region. Picture a slightly effervescent glass of VV with a freshly prepared sea bass or red bream ceviche while overlooking the pristine Atlantic waters off the coast of Portugal. It may be green. But, it sure works here.
You may even start singing Verde Vinho in Portuguese like Paulo Alexandre (or maybe not).
From Iberia to your table, Albarino rolls off the tongue
While Vinho Verde relies on a mix of grapes, All across the Iberian Peninsula (jutting from the Pyrennese mountains to the straits of Gibralter) and throughout the growing regions of Spain, Albarino stands on its own or blended with Trajadura. It is usually a more refined wine than VV. And, it has the eye and palate of far more people than the Iberian contingent. Albarino rolls off the tongue in newly planted areas, like New Zealand, California, and even Uruguay. Ironically, Australian growers got themselves in a bit of a pickle with it. They marketed thousands of bottles of “Albarino” only to find out that DNA tests confirmed that the grapes are in fact French Savagnin. Whoops…
So, what does that mean for us? If you don’t come from the Iberian region of Portugal and Spain, you can now get your hands on their favorite summer time sipper all across the globe. Of course, like any regional sensation, what we get from vintners outside this area will be different. But, the underlying characteristics will all be there. The grapefruit, honeysuckle, and melon tones of Albarino will still be there. But, a Napa producer may incorporate a more California feel to the wine, while someone in Yalumba may introduce a more Germanic feel. Well, today is your day to find out. Lucky for us, Spanish, Portuguese, and other variations are all easily available in most wine stores. Most are moderately priced, with some being bargains. So, go grab a couple bottles and start drinking.
Don’t forget the food
Remember, Albarino works best with food. So, here are a couple light dishes to complement the wine. There is a large Portuguese population here in New England, so we adapted the beloved ceviche to scallops. And, being summer, zucchini and summer squash are in full bloom. So, we stuffed the squash blossoms with a mixture of local produce and cheese. If you think flowers aren’t your thing, give it a try. The combination of a creamy filling with all the fresh produce, and the crispy tempura crust make for a perfect pairing with Albarino.
Tempura fried squash blossoms
Ingredients
- 12 each Squash Blossoms (Flower from zucchini)
- 1/2 Cup Diced sweet onion
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Garlic
- 2 Cups Diced Lion's mane Mushrooms
- 2 Cups Fresh Pea Shoots, chopped fine
- 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Basil
- 1/4 Cup Mascarpone Cheese
- 1 Cup Shredded Mozzarella
- olive oil for cooking
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- 1 Large Egg
- 1 12 oz Beer
- 1 Cup Flour
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- oil for frying
Instructions
- Saute Onion and Garlic in olive oil until softened. Then add a little more oil and add the mushrooms. Saute until soft. Then add in the pea shoots and cook until soft as well. Fold in the basil and season with salt and pepper.
- Mix the cheeses in a bowl and fold in the vegetable mix.
- Remove the stamens from the flowers. And carefully fill the flowers with the stuffing.
- Whisk the egg, and add in the beer, then flour to make the tempura batter. Season with salt and pepper.
- heat oil to fry on the stove or in a fryer to about 350 degrees. Dip the stuffed flowers into the batter and gently place in the hot oil. Cook until the batter is evenly browned and crisp. Serve immediately.
Notes
Mandarin Orange Scallop Ceviche With Crispy Tortilla Threads and Avocado
Ingredients
- 8 oz Fresh sea or bay scallops
- 2 each Mandarin oranges
- 1 cup fine diced sweet onion
- 1 cup diced fresh tomato
- 1/2 cup fine died sweet peppers
- 1 Tbsp fine diced jalapeno
- 1 Tbsp chopped fresh cilantro
- 1 Tbsp chopped fresh chives or scallions
- 3 Tbsp fresh squeezed lime juice
- 2 Tbsp Avocado oil
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 1 each Avocado
- 1 Tbsp lime juice
- 1 each raw tortilla or flour tortilla Julienned
- Oil to fry tortillas
- Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
- Either make or buy raw tortilla dough. You can substitute flour tortillas as well. Julienne them super thin and fry in 350 degree oil. Drain on paper towels and season with salt and pepper. These will be your garnish
- Peel and pull apart the mandarin oranges. Place the segments in a bowl. Cut them in 1/2 if you prefer. make sure to remove the little muscles from the scallops before marinating. They can be tough. Then add in all ingredients except avocado and second lime juice. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Closer to 1 hour is better. This gives time to "cook" the scallops.
- Place the flesh of the avocado in a food processor or mixing bowl and puree with lime juice, salt, and pepper.
- Serve the ceviche in small bowls or in ceramic spoons as an hors d'ouevre. Garnish with tortilla threads and avocado puree.