Another Japanese Rice Burner
American Motorcycle riders have a penchant for American made choppers like Harley Davidson. Anything else meets derision. When they see a Kawasaki, Suzuki, or Honda the usual comment is: Another Japanese Rice Burner. But, today, we aren’t here to talk about motorcycles. We want to talk about Another Japanese Rice Burner because it’s national Sake Day (not sake, Sa-kay). When we say burner, that’s not entirely accurate. You don’t actually burn the rice. But, a burner is involved in the processing, and again, at service time. If you like Sushi, you’re well aware of Sake. If not, there’s a lot more to it than you think.
What is Sake? It’s a rice wine with roots in Japan. But, the term wine is actually a misnomer. Wine is a product of Fruit juice Fermented naturally. Beer is milled grain fermented in water where the starches convert to alcohol. Sake is more akin to beer. You start with “polished Rice”, and Ferment it in water. Except, it doesn’t go through a secondary fermentation. Although, most beer has an ABV of 4 to 10%. Wine comes in around 9 to 16%. Sake comes in around 18-20%, but, they dilute it to around 15% in most cases. So, it’s stronger than Beer or wine in most cases. Having that higher alcohol content is probably why they call it wine. Also, it drinks more like a wine. Sake is rarely carbonated, and, it looks more like wine than beer.
Table of Contents
Sake is more than just another Japanese rice burner
There is a whole ceremony to drinking sake. It’s a staple at Sushi bars. Somehow, eating cold, raw fish and rice pairs perfectly with warm rice beverages. It may sound like too much rice. But, there it is. While you could drink sake cold or at room temperature, the traditional way is to warm it in a porcelain or ceramic decanter and pour it into small ceramic or porcelain cup. The heat opens up the aromas, and intensifies the flavors. Remember, it’s booze made from rice. While Eastern palates are attuned to the flavor of rice, many people in the Western world, don’t think of rice as having a lot of flavor in general. The difference between different varieties of rice is too subtle for a lot of people. And, rice in general is a relatively neutral substance that picks up the flavors of what it’s cooked with.
Don’t cheap out with just another rice burner
Some Sake brewers take the same approach. They don’t really care about the subtleties. There are over 300 varieties of rice in Japan (where most Sake comes from). About 100 of those are used for sake. But, some manufacturers cheap out and use traditional eating rice, which doesn’t have the same properties or purity of quality sake rice. Think of rice you get in local super markets or restaurants. Sushi rice is a sticky and unique rice. Then you have the types of rice you use for risotto. And, there is what most people think of as “regular rice”, like Uncle Bens or other long grain rice. Then there are wild rices and other types. But, just among the white rices, you see a huge difference. Think of how that would make a wildly different beverage. The 4 major types of rice used for sake are:
- Yamada-nishiki (山田錦)
- Omachi (雄町)
- Gohyakuman-goku (五百万石) and
- Miyama-nishiki (美山錦).
each has its own characteristics. Yamada-nishiki is the most popular variety, promote savory flavors. Omachi is difficult to grow, but gives complexity to sake. Gohyakuman-goku has larger inner kernels that are pure starch. This makes a very clean and strong sake. Miyama-nishiki is a hardy variety that makes a clean, smooth textured sake.
Which is best?
Well, that’s in the palate of the beholder? According to Sake Social:
Junmai-shu, Ginjo-shu, Daiginjo-shu, Honjozo-shu and Namazake are the five main kinds of sake. They are brewed in slightly different ways and make use of different percentage of milling and hence, have a unique taste.
That milling is the key to sake. We mentioned “polishing” rice earlier. The term polishing is really milling. Rice has 4 parts: a hull, a bran layer, endosperm, and the germ. When you polish or mill rice you remove layers. The hull is a tough inedible outer layer. So, that goes first. Then there is the bran. The bran is nutrient rich with vitamins, proteins, and fats. While these are good for eating, they don’t help much in fermentation. The germ is the protein and nutrient rice base that feeds the rice. And, the endosperm is what the brewers want. It’s the starchy part. Starch is what we ferment. So, the cleanest sakes come from this part of the rice.
You may think, that makes the best sake. That depends on what you want in your sake. So, different brewers use varying levels of milling. If you leave the Germ and/or bran intact, the color will be off. The cleanest Sakes are clear. The bran and germ make it a bit more yellowish. But, they add mare flavor. Some don’t want that flavor. others do. And, you need to be careful that they don’t become bitter or off putting.
So, what are the types of Sake?
We don’t want just Another Japanese Rice Burner. We want the best Sake. But, again, that’s up to the drinker. Some seek purity and clarity. Others seek a boost in flavor and complexity. So, here’s a quick guide to different types of sake:
Junmai-shu is a pure sake. The rice is minimally milled, leaving 70% of the grains intact. No sugars or adjuncts in this variety.
Ginjo-shu goes just a tad further with the milling, at 60% whole grain. Some varieties are better cold than warm.
Daiginjo-shu mills the grains to 35 to 50%. It has higher alcohol, full body and fragrance, and a delicate flavor.
Honjozo-shu uses 70% whole grain. But, it also has added Brewer’s alcohol. This gives a distinctive aroma and taste. Itis light and smooth in body and flavor.
Namazake is simply a term that means the sake is not pasteurized. All the above varieties can be Namazake. So, you must refrigerate to preserve them. It doesn’t mean it’s better or worse quality. It just is.
So, tonight don’t settle for just Another Japanese Rice Burner
A lot of people only drink sake with Sushi. But, that misses out on a whole world of possibilities. Sake can range from fruity to savory or Umami (as some like to say). Umami is a descriptor of a flavor on the savory scale of things where glutamates and amino acids are prominent. Some say it’s a “meaty” flavor. It usually applies to wines and cheeses among other things. So, having a scale as wide as that, of course Sake applies to a lot more food than sushi. You can serve lighter, fruitier ones as an aperitif. Or you can pair it with lighter fare or desserts. More Savory variations go well with fish, chicken, and heartier dishes. While Sake is technically closer to beer, it does have wine like characteristics. So, wherever wine goes, so can Sake.
no comparison
Of course, Sake purists will tell you you can’t compare sake to other beverages. While this is true to an extent, you can still pair it in similar ways. Many wine descriptors cross path with sake. Common flavors include, Melon, pear, apple, and the ubiquitous wet stone or floral notes. While wines have varying types and levels of acidity, sake tends to come in between 1 to 2%. Again, this doesn’t mean it’s better or worse. But, it does make for a pleasant drinking experience. So, feel free to experiment with Sake. Try it with a cheese course. It may be from japan, but, that doesn’t mean you have to eat it with Japanese food. Although, that is a good place to start. There’s a reason people usually drink it with Seafood: it works. And, the simpler the preparation, the better. It’s all about freshness.
So, here are some recipes to try with your sake. Some you may expect. Others may surprise you. But, give it a try.
KanPai!
Japanese Eggplant and Daikon Radish Salad with Miso Wasabi dressing
Ingredients
- 12 oz Japanese Eggplant
- 1 oz Sesame oil
- 1/4 tsp cracked black pepper
- 1 Tbsp Lime juice
- 1 tsp honey
- 1/2 tsp garlic chopped
- 1 tsp chopped fresh cilantro
- 1 Tbsp Soy Sauce
- 1/2 cup julienne daikon radish
- 1/2 cup Julienne English cucumber
- 1/4 cup julienne red bell pepper
- 2 cups Baby mizuna or other baby greens
- For dressing:
- 1/4 cup honey
- 1/4 cup Rice wine vinegar (Seasoned)
- 1 tsp Lime Juice
- 1 Tbsp Soy sauce
- 1/4 tsp chopped fresh garlic
- 1/2 tsp chopped fesh ginger
- 1 tsp wasabi powder
- 1/2 tsp Dijon mustard
- 1 Tbsp Miso paste
- 1/2 cup soy bean oil
- 2 Tbsp Sesame oil
Instructions
- Marinate the eggplant. make marinade: Mix Lime juice, sesame oil, honey, soy, cilantro, garlic, and black pepper. Split the Japanese Eggplant lengthwise and coat evenly with the marinade. Let sit in fridge about an hour or longer.
- Make the dressing by mixing all ingredients except oil in a blender or in a bowl . Turn on the blender or use a stick blender and slowly drizzle in the oil until the ingredients emulsify into a dressing. Set aside in the fridge until service time.
- Heat a pan over medium high heat. Sear the eggplant until caramelized (about 2 to 3 minutes). Then flip over and cook on other side for about the same amount of time. Turn off the heat and pour in the glaze. Let in coat the eggplant. But, be careful not to scorch it. That would leave a bitter taste and burn the product. Allow to cool. Then slice into diagonal cut shapes.
- At service time, Toss the vegetables together with some of the dressing. If there is extra dressing, it will hold for a couple weeks in the fridge. Serve imediately.
Notes
Vegan Black Cumin And Red Lentil Ragout
Ingredients
- 2 Cups Red Lentils
- 1 Cup Diced Sweet Onion
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Garlic
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh Ginger
- 1 Cup Fresh Grape Tomatoes, Cut in 1/2
- 2 Tbsp Black Cumin Seeds
- 1 Tbsp Brown Cumin Seeds
- 1 tsp Ground Turmeric
- 4 Cups vegetable Broth (may substitute water)
- 1/4 Cup Olive Oil
- Salt and Pepper to taste
Instructions
- Saute the onion, Both types of cumin seed, garlic, and ginger in olive oil over medium high heat until translucent. Then add in the lentils. Stir and cook until well coated with the olive oil.
- Heat the stock over high heat. Fill the pan of lentils with stock so that they are completely covered. You may not need all of it, as red lentils cook quickly. Reduce by 1/2 the volume, stirring as needed. Be careful not to overcook the lentils. Add in the tomatoes and Turmeric. Continue cooking . Add more stock if needed. You want the lentils to be soft, but not breaking apart. Fold in salt, pepper, and Cashews. Serve hot. For today's recipe, we want most of the liquid absorbed, so it can stand on a plate. But, you can leave it wetter if you want more of a stew that you can serve in a bowl.
Lemon Coconut Flan with Candied Zest and Pistachio Brittle
Ingredients
- 12 large egg yolks
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 pint coconut milk
- 1 pint Coconut cream Sweetened (such as coco lopez)
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- 1/4 tsp kosher salt
- 2 medium lemon, zest and juice split the lemon zest: 1/2 for in the flan and 1/2 for garnish. Zest it in strips using a peeler and julienne slice or with a zester
- for the caramel
- 1 cup sugar in the raw
- water to cover the sugar
- For the brittle
- 2 cup sugar
- 1 cup water
- 1/2 cup Agave syrup or honey
- 3 cups peeled pistacchios
- 2 Tbsp Margarine, vegan spread, or coconut oil
- 1/2 tsp Kosher or sea salt
- 1/2 tsp baking soda
Instructions
- Make the brittle: Put sugar, syrup, water, and salt in a pot and bring to a boil, then cut back to a simmer. Stir frequently until a caramel has formed. Remove from the heat and fold in the butter, then add the baking soda and pistacchios and stir vigorously. The baking soda will make the mixture bubble. make sure you cook it until it becomes thick. If it is too watery, it won't harden properly. Transfer to a sprayed baking sheet. Spray a rubber spatula to remove from the pot and spread evenly in the pan. Let cool at least 1 hour. Then, cut or break into pieces for service.
- make the caramel for the flan: Mix the first batch of sugar in the raw and water, bring to a boil, then cut to a simmer. Simmer until it becomes syrupy. about 3 minutes in, add 1/2 of the lemon zest and juice.
- In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar. Whisk until it thickens. Add in the lemon juice and vanilla. Continue whisking. Add in the coconut milk and cream a little at a time. If it starts to look too thin, stop adding liquid.
- Spray oven proof crocks or ramekins with pan spray. Put them in a baking pan with sides that go at least half way up the sides of the crocks. Pour a short layer of the caramel in the bottom of each ramekin. Save out the citrus zest for garnish. Add in the coconut milk custard in equal portions. Put water in the pan between the crocks and put in a preheated 350 degree oven.
- Bake for about 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the flans are firm. They should not jiggle when shaken.
- Allow the flans to cool overnight. Then, carefully, run a paring knife around the perimeter of the flans to loosen. Place a plate over the flan and then turn it over. The flan should pop out and be surrounded by a pool of caramel. Garnish with lemon zest, mint, and pistachio brittle and serve. You may need to heat the bottom of the crock to loosen the caramel. This can be done in the microwave.
Notes
Corriander Seared Scallops on Pureed hearts of Palm with Asparagus Salad
Ingredients
- Extra Virgin Olive oil
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- 1 large Can hearts of palm
- 1/2 Cup Diced Shallot
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh Ginger
- 1 Cup heavy Cream or Cream of Coconut
- 1/2 tsp Coriander powder
- For Scallops
- 1 to 1 1/2 Lb large Sea scallops size 20/30 or larger
- 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Cilantro
- 1/2 tsp Ground Coriander
- 1/2 tsp Cumin, ground
- 1/2 tsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- For Asparagus Salad:
- 1 Bunch Asparagus
- 1/2 Cup Thin Sliced Red Onion
- 1/4 Cup Julienne Red Pepper
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Dill
- 1 Medium Lemon
Instructions
- Prep the Asparagus Salad: Cut the Asparagus into 1 to 2 inch lengths. Blanch in Boiling salted water until al dente. Cool down in iced or cold water.. Drain well. Cut the rest of your vegetables. Toss all ingredients with a the juice of 1/2 a lemon, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Keep chilled until service. Don't make too far in advance or the acid from the lemon will discolor the asparagus.
- Make The Puree: heat a light coating of olive oil over medium high heat in a heavy gauge pot. Add in the shallot, garlic and ginger. Saute until translucent and aromatic. Rough chop, and Add in the Hearts of Palm and coriander powder. Stir. Then add the cream. Bring to a simmer and reduce. Stir as needed. Reduce the liquid until it becomes a coating. Then, remove from heat and puree in a food processor until smooth. Return to the pot to heat at service time.
- Sear the scallops. Mix the seasonings and herbs in a little olive oil and the juice from the other half lemon. Add in the scallops and toss until well coated. Refrigerate 1 hour before cooking. To cook, heat a saute pan over high heat. Add in the scallops in a single layer. Sear each side until nicely browned, about 2 minutes per side. Cook a little longer if needed to cook all the way through. Actual cooking time will vary depending on the thickness of the scallops. They will become firm to the touch and shrink a bit.
- Plate the dish: Gently re-heat the puree. It doesn't have to be screaming hot, but warm enough. Make a line of the puree. Top it with the scallops. Then put the asparagus salad around or on top of the Scallops. Drizzle the extra juice from the salad over the scallops. Serve immediately.
Lemon Tempura Vegetables with Ginger Plum Sauce
Equipment
- Fryer or pot to fry in
Ingredients
- 1 to 2 Lb Fresh Vegetables, green beans are a must, the rest is up to you: Eggplant, zucchini, carrots, Mushrooms, Broccoli, Onions, or more
- 1 Lb Rice Flour May substitute 1/2 AP flour and 1/2 cornstarch
- 1 Large Egg
- 1 Bottle lager or pilsner beer, the lighter the better
- 1 Whole Lemon, just the zest and juice
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- For Dip:
- 1 Cup Whole Fresh Plums, pit removed
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Ginger
- 2 Cup Seasoned Rice wine vinegar or Mirin
- 1/4 Cup Tamari Soy sauce
- 2 Tbsp Honey
- Oil to fry
Instructions
- Make the plum sauce. Cut the plums into one inch pieces. Saute the plums and ginger, in a little bit of oil, over medium high heat until they begin to soften and break down. Add the mirin or rice wine vinegar and bring to a boil. Taper off to a simmer and cook until the liquid has reduced by about half and the plums are falling apart. Add the honey and tamari. Then blend until smooth. You can do this with an immersion blender in the pot or in a stationary blender. Cool down for service.
- Set up your frying station: Put at least 3 inches of oil in a pot on a stove or fill your frying machine to the proper level. Get your equipment together: Frying spiders, tongs, bowl to mix batter in, paper towels and pans or plates to dry the tempura on.
- Cut your vegetables. Green beans can be whole. For best results, try cutting everything in similar sizes so they will cook at about the same rate.
- make the batter: Whisk your egg. Add the flour, lemon juice and zest. and Begin whisking. Pour the beer in a little at a time, and continue whisking until the batter is at a consistency you like. You may want to add the whole beer or stop when it is a little thicker. Adding the whole beer will result in a pretty thin batter. Season with salt and pepper.
- Heat the oil to about 350 degrees. If you don't have a thermometer, watch the oil. It will move freely about. drop a little batter in. If it bubbles up and forms a ball, your temperature should be about right. You can adjust the flame too. remember. when you add food in, the temperature of the oil will drop, so you can regulate the temperature by adjusting the flame.
- Dip your vegetables in the batter one at a time. Shake off extra batter and bring the dipped item to the oil. Swirl the item a little bit until it begins to float up a little bit. Then, let go and let it fry. repeat this step until you have an amount of vegetables in the pot that you feel comfortable keeping an eye on. You will notice that the underside of the vegetables will begin to get more color than the top. Flip the vegetables at this point to get an even color. Cook until golden brown, remove from the oil onto paper towels. Repeat this process until all the vegetables are done.