Bouillabaisse Rules the Day
If you haven’t updated your calendar, do so now. December 14 is national bouillabaisse day. Picture yourself in the French seaside port of Marseille. The effervescence of the waves, the salty spritz of the Mediterranean, and the Chatter of Local fishermen discussing what to do with their catch fill the air. A catch of rockfish flavors a stew accented with crustaceans, fennel, saffron, garlic, citrus, and tomato. Thus was born the world renowned dish known as bouillabaisse. Although, its roots trace back to ancient Greece and the people who actually founded Marseille. When it comes to classic cuisine, much like the Greeks of yore, Bouillabaisse Rules the Day.
At some point in their career, a chef prepares a version of bouillabaisse. But, it is probably not correct. This is because the powers that be in the French Culinary world sat down multiple times and decried the exact composition of the dish. Just like champagne can only come from the Champagne region and Burgundies can only come from Burgundy, bouillabaisse can only be authentic if it is made with 3 specific fishes from Marseille, France. But, I call BS. The best bouillabaisse is made from locally sourced, fresh fish. And, if you don’t live near or have access to rascasse (Scorpaena scrofa); sea robin; and European conger, you are probably better off. Damn the snobbery. As much as consistency counts, creativity and adaptability are the most important ingredients to a heart felt recipe.
And, it’s a great way to use your Fish Heads, fish heads, roly poly fishheads…
Table of Contents
Bouillabaisse VS Cioppino
Many people confuse Bouillabaisse with Cioppino. But, that’s not something to be ashamed of. Cioppino is an Italian American version of a tomato seafood stew. While Bouillabaisse is a French version of a seafood stew with saffron and Tomato. Both derive inspiration from Mediterranean waters. The main differences are saffron in the French version and the base of the stew. Cioppino is a tomato based stew with seafood. Bouillabaisse starts with a fish stock, then adds tomato. Traditionally, wine is not an ingredient in the French version. But, it is basic in Cioppino.
To me, a hybrid version is the best. And, as mentioned before, using local fish, shellfish, and crustaceans brings the freshness of the sea into your home. Adding crab, mussels, clams, shrimp, lobster, and scallops are a must. In fact, today is national Bouillabaisse day. But, Christmas eve is around the corner. And, anyone familiar with Italian customs knows about the feast of the seven fishes. This is the perfect opportunity to experiment with a hybrid version of Bouillabaisse. Combining the richness of cioppino with the saffron infusion and seafood elements of Bouillabaisse is a perfect vehicle for the celebration. This is one version of fusion that should not cause consternation in foodies. Although, purists will fight like congressmen over a piece of pork in a bill when it comes to the blasphemy I am suggesting.
Well, poo poo to them. Let’s cook some seafood stew. Who cares what you call it? Bouillabaisse Rules the Day no matter what its name.
Bouillabaisse Rules the Day especially as a hybrid
There is something to be said about getting the spices right in an authentic seafood stew. Taste memories stay with us for decades. But, there is also something liberating and invigorating about trying new taste sensations. So, where other chefs, cookbooks, and dogma insist you follow ze rules to a tee, I hereby give you permission to experiment and play with your food.
That being said, here are a couple guiding principles (not to be confused with rules).
- You will want a couple different types of fish. They should be relatively firm, as they could easily fall apart in the stew. Monkfish, Sea bass, halibut, grouper, tile fish, orange roughie, and swordfish are all good choices.
- Garlic, onion, fennel, and saffron make an excellent aromatic base.
- Add some shellfish and crustaceans for variety. Langostinos are popular in European areas. But, shrimp, crawfish, crabs, and lobster are great options here in the states.
- Start with a flavorful broth. If you have access to fish bones or lobster bodies this will give a great seafood flavor. But, if you want something less fishy, feel free to go heavier on the tomato broth.
- Don’t forget to add some herbs and spices. Traditional Bouillabaisse relies on light spicing outside of the saffron. But, basil, oregano, dill, and Thyme are welcome additions in our hybrid world.
If seafood isn’t your thing, you can always listen to this stimulating version of the French classic Bouillabaisse by Fernandel…
Bouillabaisse Rules the Day with this recipe:
Since it is possible that not having any rules could result in a chocolate, crab, coconut, avocado, marshmallow fluff disaster, here is a recipe for a hybrid Bouillabaisse to start you on your way. Again, you can make substitutions. If a certain fish is not available, get something else. For this recipe, I have the Feast of the seven fishes in mind too. So, it will feature 7 fishes. Feel free to simplify and skip things if they are unavailable or not to your liking.
When making the soup. I cook the seafood separately and then add it into the soup so that they don’t overcook and break down. Seafood is very delicate and has to be served immediately for the best flavor and consistency. So, this recipe requires a lot of steps and attention. But, the end result is a flavorful dish with a wow factor. The blend of flavors, textures, and aroma are intoxicating. And, your guests will thank you.
If this seems a bit arduous and involved for your tastes, check out our tribute to the maritimes and the scallop recipe therein. It also has “wow” factor with fewer ingredients. But, if you love a variety of seafood and want to impress with your feast of the 7 fishes, give our bouillabaisse a chance.
Bon Apetit!
Maritime Bouillabaisse with Garlic croutons and Dill Aioli
Ingredients
- 8 each Shrimp in shell, size 16/20 or 21/25
- 2 each 1 1/4 Lb lobsters, live
- 1/2 Lb Boneless, skinless halibut Filet (or comparable firm flesh fish)
- 1/2 Lb Boneless, skinless swordfish
- 3/4 Lb Monkfish (cleaned and trimmed down)
- 12 each 20/30 size sea scallops
- 3/4 Lb Mussels in shell
- 1 Lb Fish bones and heads if available
- 1 Quart Rough chopped Carrots, Onion, and celery
- 1 Head Whole garlic.
- 2 cups Julienne Sweet Onion
- 1 Medium Fennel Bulb
- 2 Cups Baby potatoes cut in 1/2 or 14 depending on size. They should be about 1/4 to 1/3 inch.
- 1/2 tsp Saffron threads
- 1 Oz Pernod or anise flavored liquor
- 1/2 tsp Anise seed
- 4 each Bay leaves
- 1 Tbsp Whole peppercorns
- 1/4 cup Fresh basil leaves
- 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Dill
- the zest and juice of 1 large lemon
- 1 28 ounce Can of diced tomato in juice
- 1 Pint Fresh grape tomatoes, cut in half
- Kosher salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
- Olive Oil for cooking
- For croutons:
- 1 Each French baguette
- 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 1/2 Cup Olive oil
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- For Aioli:
- 2 large Egg Yolks
- 1 tsp Dijon Mustard
- 1/2 Tsp Chopped fresh Garlic
- 1 Tbsp Lemon Juice
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Dill
- 1 Cup Olive Oil
- Salt and Pepper to taste
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 300
- make the croutons: Cut baguette into 1/2 inch thick angle cut ovals or rounds. Spread them out on a baking sheet pan. Mix the garlic, oil, salt and pepper together. Brush this mix over the bread and bake for approximately 10 minutes until they are cooked through. They should not be too soft. Be careful not to overcook though.
- Make the aioli: Put all ingredients except oil and dill in a food processor. Turn the machine on. Drizzle the oil in slowly until the aioli forms a loose mayonnaise consistency. Add in the dill, Pulse until mixed. Adjust seasoning if necessary.
- Peel the shrimp if they have peels. Cut the back and remove the black or blue line in he shrimp (this is its digestive track. Save the shells for seafood stock.
- If you are not too squeamish, Separate the lobster into parts. You will use the body for the stock. Otherwise, you can boil the whole lobster and use the court bouillon for the stock base.
- To make the stock: Place Fish bones, lobster bodies, and shrimp shells with celery, carrots, onions, and trimmings from fennel in a large pot. Add peppercorns, 2 bay leaves, and water to cover by at least 2 inches. Bring to a boil. Then taper back to a simmer. Allow to simmer for about 45 minutes. Then strain the liquid. Use this liquid to boil your lobsters for about 8 to 10 minutes. Cool them in ice water. . Then, remove them from their shells. Cut the tail pieces in 1/2.
- Julienne slice fennel bulb and Onion. Chop the garlic, zest and juice the Lemon, chop the dill, and cut the tomatoes and potatoes while the stock is cooking. Also, cut your fish into 2 ounce pieces. Remove muscle from the scallops and make sure your mussels are cleaned and beards removed.
- Heat olive oil over medium high heat in a large wide pot. Saute the onion, garlic, bay leaves, and fennel until translucent. Add the potatoes and let them lightly brown. Stir as needed. Add in the saffron and lemon zest, and stir. Then add the Pernod and burn off the alcohol. Add in the can of tomato and 1 quart of stock. Bring to a boil and cut back to a simmer. Cook for about 20 minutes. You want the potatoes cooked, but not overcooked. Add the Tomatoes and dill. Stir and Season the soup.
- In a separate pan. Heat olive oil over medium high heat. Sear the fish, shrimp, and scallops, about 1 minute per side, separately. Season with salt and pepper. When they are all done, add them to the soup. And add in the mussels. Cover the soup and allow the mussels to open.
- To serve: Divide the cooked lobster between bowls. Then split up the seafood evenly between the bowls. Ladel the soup over the seafood. Then top with a crouton and a drizzle of aioli. Or you can serve family or buffet style from a large serving bowl or crock.