Don’t be such a cream puff

So, it’s January second. And, it’s time to forego that New Year’s resolution to lose weight. Did you really think you’d follow through this year? Just like all the rest, you had your day. Now, face reality. You’re just going to have to give in and celebrate the good things in life. Julia Child famously said, “the only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook.” So, Don’t be such a cream puff. Enjoy life to the fullest. But, keep moderation in mind. And, join us in celebrating national Cream Puff day.

Why not start the year with something soft, sweet, and delicious? If you have never had a cream puff, you’re in for a treat. Even if you have had them before, unless you got them in a Paris Bistro or high end restaurant, they probably weren’t the best. Now, at the risk of sounding “elitist”, Entenman’s don’t cut it. But, you don’t have to go to that Paris Bistro either. The best Cream puffs are freshly made. Even though they can be frozen or refrigerated to be eaten at a later date, there is nothing like a fresh cream puff or eclair. You wouldn’t want a day old doughnut or cannoli. So, why eat a cream puff that has been sitting around?

Don’t be such a cream puff. Start with a good Pate a Choux.

The base of cream puffs is pate a choux. This is a French term which literally translates to cabbage paste. Don’t worry. There is no cabbage involved. The term refers to the resemblance of the dough to a cabbage. It is a simple dough of cooked flour, butter, liquid, and eggs. This dough is very versatile. While it is prominent in cream puffs, profiteroles, and Eclairs, it can have savory applications as well. It adds a puff to Duchess Potatoes and makes a great base for fritters (See our recipe here). Some American chefs and bakers simply call it puff paste or choux paste. But, don’t confuse it with puff pastry. They are 2 completely different animals.

It’s Simple. But, the devil is in the details

The success of Pate a choux lies in the attention t detail. While it is a simple process with simple ingredients, there are a couple places where you’re dough can falter. The first lies in the first phase of cooking. You want to bring your liquid and butter to a Boil. But, be careful not to scorch it (especially if you use milk or cream). Then, when you add your flour, you want to stir vigorously to incorporate the liquid and avoid lumps. During this phase, you need to control the temperature (again to avoid burning). Additionally, you want to cook it well enough to cook the flour. The gluten in the flour is what gives structure and bite to the puffs. So, use a mid to high gluten flour (not cake or pastry flour).

Then comes the crucial part: incorporating the eggs. For best results, add them one at a time. And, don’t pre-whip them. Most recipes I have seen call for whisking the eggs before adding. This makes sense from a logical perspective. But, I have found that adding them whole incorporates more air into the whites, resulting in a puffier dough. Maybe I’m crazy. Or maybe there is something to it. Try it both ways and see what you think. Either way, adding one at a time is the important thing. This creates a smooth, well balanced batter.

Time to bake

When you bake the puffs, keep the heat in mind. Remember, there is no leavening agent like baking soda or powder. So, the puff comes from the expansion of moisture in the dough. The best way to “create steam” is by using high heat. While a lot of baked goods call for a 300 to 350 oven, you want a solid 400 for cream puffs. This activates the moisture, which gets trapped in the gluten strands of the flour. This results in a semi-hollow cavity that is easy to stuff.

Some recipes will tell you to turn down the heat. This step is not necessary. But, it may be be called for if your oven is not consistent. Once the puff is achieved, the shell of the puff could overcook. If they are darkening too quickly, then you can turn down the heat. But, in most cases, you will be fine. If you keep the oven door shut, the heat should be consistent. This is a version of a watched pot never boils. If you open the oven during baking, heat escapes, and you lose the momentum of steam in the puffs. This can result in a cream flop instead of a puff. If you have a light and window in your oven, use them to check on the puffs.

Choose your liquids wisely

Most pate a Choux recipes use water for the liquid. There is wisdom to that. Water is pure liquid, while dairy products contain fats, proteins, and other particles. So, when you bake the puffs, the water will evaporate and create a crunchy crust. For our recipe, though, I chose milk or cream for flavor and richness. The resulting dough will not be as crunchy, but it will be more decadent. If you prefer a crunchier dough, substitute water. Or, you can do a mixture of water and dairy. Frankly, I appreciate both ways. Sometimes, I want a crunchier crust. They are easier to work with. And, the mouth feel of a bit of crunch is desirable.

Don’t be such a cream puff. Try different fillings.

You can go with a simple whipped cream filling f you want. But, I like the consistency of pastry cream. Our recipe here calls for both. Pastry cream is a thin, malleable custard. The richness and smoothness compliment puff paste creations well. But, don’t feel constrained to an either or. Combine fillings. You can do a niche chocolate ganache, marzipan, jams, jellies, or preserves. How about a layer of chocolate, a berry compote, and a whipped cream topper? Or, for those of you who like a pumpkin spiced latte: pumpkin spice mousse. And, of course, a classic profiterole is filled with ice Cream. So, have at it. Play with your food.

And, let’s not forget that the size and shape is negotiable. Eclairs are made from the same dough. The only difference is that you pipe the dough out in a log.. And, instead of cutting it in 1/2, you poke a hole in one end and pipe the filling in, like a jelly doughnut. We usually use a pastry bag to pipe the dough onto a sheet pan. But, you can scoop the dough as well. If you are piping, though, when you try to pull the bag from the dough, it will, inevitably, leave a tail or point on the mound of dough. This point can burn in a hot oven. So, we usually smooth it over by dipping a finger in water and tamping it down gently.

So, Don’t be such a cream puff. Get up off that couch. And, get in the kitchen. Start baking something you and your loved ones will truly enjoy. And, don’t worry about making too many. These can be frozen. Don’t forget profiteroles. Stuff them with ice cream and have a sweet treat in the freezer at all times.

Happy New Year! And, A Happy Cream Puff day to all!

Lemon and Salted Caramel Cream Puffs

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 20 minutes mins

Cook Time 50 minutes mins

Course Dessert

Cuisine French

Servings 3 Dozen Puffs (approximately)

Ingredients

  

• For Pate A Choux:
• 2 Cups Light Cream or milk (or water)
• 2 Cups AP Flour
• 1 Stick Unsalted Butter
• 7 large Eggs
• 1 Tbsp Sugar
• 1/2 tsp kosher salt
• For Pastry Cream:
• 2 Cups Light Cream
• 2/3 Cup Sugar
• 1 Tbsp Vanilla Extract or 1 vanilla bean, scraped
• 3 Large Eggs (2 Yolks and 1 whole)
• 1/4 Cup Corn Starch
• 3 Tbsp Unsalted Butter
• 1 Large Lemon, just the zest and Peel
• For the Whipped Cream:
• 2 Cup Heavy Cream
• 1 tsp Vanilla Extract
• 1/4 Cup Powdered Sugar
• For The Caramel:
• 1/2 Cup Water
• 2 Cup Sugar
• 1/2 tsp Large Flake sea salt, plus extra for garnish
• 1 Tbsp Unsalted Butter

Instructions

 

• Make the Caramel: Melt the Sugar in a pot over medium heat. Stir in the water and allow to caramelize, stirring continuously. Let the This forms a syrup. Allow the syrup to brown into a caramel. When it reaches a nice color, stir in the butter and salt. You want it to be relatively stiff. Set aside for later.
• make the Pastry Cream: Heat the cream and half the sugar in a heavy pot over medium heat, whisk until well blended. In a separate bowl, Whisk the egg yolks and eggs with the remaining sugar, cornstarch, vanilla, and lemon zest. Then ladle a little of the hot cream mixture into the eggs, whisking the entire time, you don't want the eggs to cook. Continue adding the cream a little at a time until all is mixed. Then, return the mixture to the pot and return to a low heat. Whisk until it thickens, but be careful not to curdle the eggs. Remove from the heat, and stir in the butter and lemon juice. Sprinkle a thin layer of sugar on top and refrigerate.
• make the Pate a Choux: Heat the milk or cream and butter over Medium heat in a heavy pot until it comes to a boil and the butter is melted. Then stir in the flour, sugar, and salt. Mix it with a wooden spoon. Keep stirring to keep it from sticking to the bottom of the pan. It will come together to form a ball of dough. Continue cooking for a couple minutes, stirring as need, to cook the flour and remove excess moisture. Remove from the heat and transfer to an electric mixer. Mix the dough at a medium speed. Add in the eggs, one at time until they are all incorporated. The mixture will be a sticky beige batter.
• Preheat the oven to 400.
• Line sheet pans with parchment paper and spray with pan spray. Put the Choux paste into a pastry bag with a plain tip. Pipe the paste into quarter sized mounds on the parchment. If you want to make eclairs, pipe it into logs. Space the mounds at least an inch apart, so they have room to puff out. Once piped out, dip your fingertip in cool water and flatten the point left from where you pulled the pastry bag off the mound.
• Bake the Puffs at 400 degrees for 30 to 35 minutes. They should be golden brown and semi-hollow inside. Air cool them.
• Make the Whipped Cream: Whip the Cream in an electric mixer or by hand until it begins to stiffen. Then add in the sugar and vanilla. Whip until it holds its shape, but don't over-whip or it will begin to break down and become butter. Keep this cold. Put in a pastry bag with a star tip.
• Using a bread knife, carefully cut the puffs crosswise so you have a top and bottom for each.
• Put the pastry cream and whipped cream into pastry bags. Pipe a little of the pastry cream on the bottom halves of the cream puffs. Then pipe the Whipped Cream vertically on top of that. Top with the top half of the puffs. Then re-warm the caramel and drizzle over each. For an extra touch, you can also sprinkle with powdered sugar and top with a couple grains of flaked sea salt. Refrigerate for at least 15 minutes. Serve cold.

Keyword Cream Puffs, dessert, Eclairs, Lemon, Pastry Cream, Pate A Choux, Profriteroles, Salted Caramel, Whipped cream