How About Some Seoul Food Tonight?

It’s Thursday the 13th. Far from being unlucky like Her cousin, Friday, this is your lucky day. It’s Korean American Day: a day dedicated to awareness of our friends from Northeast Asia. Many people only know of Koreans from what they saw on MASH or from KPOP videos. But, these don’t tell the real story of what life for Koreans and Koreans in America is like. The best way to get to know someone is through sharing a meal. So, How About Some Seoul Food Tonight?

Korean history is fraught with power struggles. On a map, it looks like a small, insignificant piece of land (The combined mass of North and South Korea is about the size of Minnesota). But, the real estate maxim of location, location, location is the key to Korea’s import to the world. It is a peninsula on the coast of China that also happens to abut Russia. And, japan is a mere 600 miles away (about the distance from Boston to Washington DC).

The fact that Korea is its own sovereign nation is a miracle, given all the power hungry forces around it. In fact, throughout its history, it has been under the control of multiple countries. There was about a 15 year period from the late 1890’s to 1910 when they had their own empire until Japan annexed Korea for itself. The country would remain under Japanese control until after WWII. Then, it became a pawn in the Russia/US cold war.

How About Some Seoul Food Tonight? Not in Pyongyang.

The end of WWII resulted in a lot of redrawn maps. Korea was divided on the 38th parallel. And, the United states and Russia backed factions in the south and north respectively. Thus, came the division we know of today, with North and South Korea as separate countries. And the war that ensued moved the line

In essence, the Korean conflict was a manifestation of the cold war. The Russian backed North became a communist regime. And, the capitalist South became a beacon of commerce. To this day, this single plot of land represents a stalemate between communism and capitalism with the north struggling under a repressive dynasty;, and, the south emerging as an international economic powerhouse. If you have a Samsung TV, phone, or other device, you can thank South Korea. Or, maybe you drive or know someone who drives a Hyundai or Kia. And, let’s not forget KPOP.

If South Korea is such a great place to live, why do Koreans come to America?

Koreans have been migrating to the United states a lot longer than you would think. In the 1990’s the US and Korea opened diplomatic channels. At this time, several Christian Missionaries converted a number of Koreans. They paved the way for the new Christian Korean students and diplomats to migrate to the US. This, however, was not a mass migration. Those came later.

The first major wave of immigrants came in 1903, when the recently US annexed Hawaii found a need for plantation workers. Koreans were living through a period of political turmoil and poverty. So, the offer of slave wages was more appealing than their concurrent situation. Thousands of Koreans came to Hawaii. When their labor contracts ended, many moved to Mainland US to seek employment or start their own businesses like laundry and beauty shops.

Unfortunately, in 1924, our forward thinking (that is sarcasm) politicians enacted the Asian Exclusion act, prohibiting Asian immigration (with the exception of students). This anti-Asian sentiment became even more hurtful during WWII, as Korea was still under the control of Japan.

The Second wave

After WWII, Koreans were freed from Japanese rule. Of course, the division into communist vs Capitalist resulted in a great war. About 15,000 Koreans saw this is a good time to fly the coupe and move to America. In 1952, the McCarran and Walter Act struck the anti Asian immigrant bill of 1924. So, between war brides, orphaned war children, and students, scholars, politicians, and businessmen, another 30,000 or more Koreans rushed to call America their home.

Unfortunately, the anti Asian sentiment embodied in the original ban combined with wartime stereotypes resulted in an unpleasant welcome to many of these grateful immigrants. However, none had it worse than the war brides and their children. They were shunned by Americans. But, worse, they were shunned by the Korean communities for their betrayal of intermarriage. If anyone remembers the song “half breed”, sung by Cher, about native Americans, the sentiment applies here.

But, this stigma did not apply to all Korean immigrants. Many of the students, politicians, and businessmen played the American game of assimilation, foregoing their own culture. This garnered them the moniker: “Model Minority.” Of course, they found themselves derided by their own community and other minority communities, especially, in the culture war climate of the 1960’s. Is it going to be soul food or Seoul food tonight? I don’t know, ask “Uncle Tom.”

Catch a third wave

In 1965, the Immigration and Naturalization Act opened the doors for needed skilled professional laborers to come to the United States. Koreans represented the 3rd largest group of migrants from that point until the 1990’s. This last group of Koreans represent the largest proportion of Korean American families to this day. Unlike the previous generations who fled wars and political turmoil, these Koreans came here by choice. They saw America as the land of opportunity, not just an escape from oppression.

Korean culture dates back to 2,000 BC. And, they can claim just as much, if not more, oppression as other immigrant groups in the USA. Our country was founded by people escaping a monarchy that was nowhere near as tyrannical as the various powers who controlled Korea throughout the centuries. And, unlike the Pilgrims who were greeted with open arms by the inhabitants of this country (who would later regret embracing the two faced invaders); the Koreans were met with skepticism, derision, fear, and, in some cases, hatred.

Besides KPOP, cars, entertainment, information, Modern Culture, and international travel and communication, what do Koreans bring to the table?

Korean Americans have their fingerprints all over modern Culture. If you have seen or read any Marvel and other contemporary comics, chances are you have seen the work of people like Frank Cho, Andy park, and Peter Shin. You can thank James Park for your fitbit. If you shop Forever 21, Red Mango, or Baja Fresh, you support Korean owned businesses. The San Fransisco 49’s Co owner is Korean American. Sandra Oh, Margaret Cho, Fred Armisen, Stephen Yuen, Grace park, and dozens more light up our TV and movie screens on a regular basis. They are journalists, politicians, academics, musicians, and high ranking military officers. Some are prominent, others are behind the scenes. But, they are all excellent at what they do.

Some are restaurateurs, like Danny Bowien of Mission restaurant in San Francisco; or, David Chang, of Momofuku in New York. Both restaurants garner high marks from critics and fans alike. And, no wonder. Korean food is diverse and flavorful. Over the centuries, their occupiers influenced their cuisine. So, you find Chinese and Japanese flavors and methods. But, the country itself is a culinary dream waiting to happen. Being a peninsula, it is surrounded by water, so seafood is prominent. But, there is so much more. Their terrain varies from mountains to valleys to plains. And, their weather goes from hot summers to long autumns, to the deep freeze of winter. So, they have plenty of diverse crops, far beyond the rice paddies of their neighbors. So, when we ask How About Some Seoul Food Tonight?, it’s hard to narrow that down.

So, what is for dinner tonight?

Because the climate is so varied and some areas of Korea are hard to get to, the art of preserving food became a necessity. Today, it is less of a problem, but the flavors developed through preservation techniques have endured. It is not uncommon to find clay pots of food buried in backyards to this day. Dried squid, fermented Pollock, and Kim Chi are a few examples of the unique flavors and textures Koreans bring to the table. So, chances are, you will see something fermented, pickled, salted, dried, or otherwise preserved on the menu.

The answer to your question: How About Some Seoul Food Tonight? is a loaded question. But, we will try to narrow it down. Many Koreans eat a primarily vegetarian or pescatarian diet. A typical meal is a feast of colors, textures, and flavors. A favorite presentation is Gujeolpan (Platter of Nine Delicacies): a lazy Susan with 8 individual ingredients in the center of the table with thin crepe like pancakes. It’s a little like a cleaner, fresher, more colorful version of Mushi.

How About Some Seoul Food Tonight? The menu:

One of the most popular Korean dishes is Bibimbap. This literally translates to mixed rice (bibim = mixed, bap = rice). The presentation is similar to Gujeolpan, by arranging the ingredients by color on top of the rice. Seasoning (and sometimes meat) finish the dish. A fried egg sits atop the dish. When you eat it, you break the egg and mix everything together. I suppose you could compare it to rice bowls that are popular in recent years, only better. It is a relatively easy, but impressive looking dish. It just requires a few ingredients (that you may not have in stock). You can change up the ingredients to your taste. You want meat, add it in. Fish? Sure, why not? Strictly vegetarian? Of course, but, you may have to lose the egg. But, this is America. We don’t have to be purists. Remember, the dish is “mixed rice”…

And, of course, you have to have Kimchi on the table. This is a spicy fermented vegetable condiment as ubiquitous in Korea as ketchup is in America. Traditionally, it is cabbage based. But, you can use a variety of vegetables: radish, cucumber, mustard leaf, Turnip, and more. You can buy it in Asian markets or some specialty stores. Or you can make your own. Don’t worry. You don’t have to bury it in a clay pot in the yard. You can ferment it in your own kitchen.

Celebrate Korea tonight

While there are hundreds of dishes to choose from, we are going to present these 2 to start. So, whip up a nice Korean meal, turn on the Samsung, and enjoy an episode of Killing Eve, earlier Walking Dead, Portlandia, X Men, or watch a 49’ers game. Then thank the Korean Americans who made your night possible.

Geonbae!

Korean BiBimBap

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 30 minutes mins

Cook Time 30 minutes mins

Course Main Course

Cuisine Korean

Servings 4 People

Ingredients

  

• 2 Cups Short Grain Rice
• 4 cups Water or vegetable broth
• 1/2 tsp Salt
• 4 Large Eggs
• 1 Tbsp Toasted Sesame Seeds
• Sesame oil for cooking
• For the Protein:
• 1/2 Lb Protein (Beef, chicken, Tofu, or seafood)
• 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Garlic
• 1/4 Cup Grated Fresh Green Apple
• 1 Tbsp Soy Sauce
• 1 Tbsp Honey
• 2 Tbsp Sesame Oil
• For the Vegetables:
• 1 Cup Julienne Fresh Carrots
• 1 Cup Julienne Fresh Zucchini
• 1 Cup Julienne Fresh Shiitake Mushrooms
• 4 Cup Fresh Spinach
• 3 Cups Bean Sprouts
• 1 Cup Julienne Red Pepper
• Vegetable oil for cooking
• 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Garlic
• Salt to taste
• 2 tsp Soy Sauce
• 2 tsp Mirin or rice wine vinegar
• 1/4 tsp Sugar
• Toasted Sesame oil to taste
• For Sauce
• 1/4 Cup Gochujang Chili paste
• 1 Ounce Mirin
• 1 Ounce Rice Wine Vinegar
• 1/2 Tbsp Soy Sauce or Tamari
• 1 Tbsp Sugar
• 1 tsp Chopped Fresh garlic
• 1 Tbsp Sesame Oil

Instructions

 

• Marinate the protein: Slice meats, fish, or tofu in thin pieces or cubes. Mix all the other ingredients. Toss the protein in the marinade and set aside for at least an hour.
• Make the Sauce: Whisk all ingredients in a bowl. Set Aside.
• Cut and cook all the vegetables. Traditionally, all the vegetables are cut in Julienne strips. We recommend this for presentation, consistency, and ease of cooking. Cook each vegetable separately in a little oil over high heat. Just cook until al dente. Mix garlic, soy, mirin, sesame oil, salt and sugar to make a light marinade. Drizzle this over or toss each vegetable separately in this mix. Keep them separate for presentation.
• Cook the Rice: Boil the water or stock with a pinch of salt. Add the rice and stir. Simmer until cooked, but not falling apart.
• Cook the protein: Saute at high heat until cooked through.
• Fry the Eggs in a little Sesame oil. Cook them sunny side up, so the yolk is still runny. Be careful not to break the yolk. That is saved for when you are eating.
• Put the rice in bowls. Arrange the vegetables and protein on top, alternating colors. Place the egg on top in the middle. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve the sauce on the side and/or drizzled on top. Enjoy!

Notes

Traditionally, this is made with a lean beef cut into strips. But, you can substitute whatever protein you prefer: Chicken, Duck, Tofu, Shrimp, Fish, Beans, whatever. The marinade for the protein is light enough to transfer to other varieties of protein.

Most versions use a short grain rice. But you don’t want sushi or glutenous rice. They tend to be too sticky. You want each grain of rice to be distinct, not breaking down into each other.

You can change up the vegetables too. Yo can add more or substitute things like asparagus, snap peas, patty pan squash, green beans, other colored peppers. Use whatever is available. Try Kale in place of or in addition to spinach.

Gochujang paste is a Korean Chili paste available in Asian Markets and some specialty stores. you can make your own with miso, chilis, sesame, honey, soy, and garlic. But, if you are going on a special trip for those ingredients, why not save the steps and just get a pre-made paste? 6 of one, half dozen of the other.

Keyword American, Bibimbap, Bowl, Egg, Gochujang, Korean, Meat, mixed, Rice, Tofu, vegetables, vegetarian versions

Napa Cabbage KimChi

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 30 minutes mins

Cook Time 3 days d 8 hours hrs

Fermenting time 10 days d

Course condiments, Side Dish

Cuisine Korean

Ingredients

  

• 2 Lb Napa Cabbage
• 1/4 Cup Sea Salt
• 2 Cup Julienne Daikon Radish
• 1 Cup Scallion Cut into 1 inch lengths
• 8 each whole garlic cloves
• 1/4 Cup Fine Julienne Ginger strips
• 1/4 Cup Cubed Onion or Shallot
• 1/4 Cup Korean Red Pepper flakes or 3 oz Gochujang Paste
• 1 Oz Fish Sauce, or Miso, or Soy Sauce
• 1 Tbsp Sugar or honey
• 1 Tbsp Glutenous Rice Flour

Instructions

 

• Cut your vegetables. Start with the cabbage. Reserve a whole leaf or two for covering the kimchi. But, cut the rest in 1 to 2 inch squares. Keep all the vegetables separate.
• Salt the cabbage. Rub all the cut cabbage with kosher salt. Cover with enough water to submerge, but not swim. Stir to dissolve the salt. Cover this with a plate to keep submerged. Let it sit at room temperature for a minimum of 6 hours or overnight.
• Drain off the cabbage. Save the brine. Rinse the cabbage and press out as much liquid as you can.
• Mix together the Chili flakes or paste, rice flour, miso or fish sauce, and sugar or honey to make a paste. Toss all the ingredients together and make sure the paste coats everything.
• Place the cabbage in a large jar or container and cover with the brine. make sure there is a couple of inches above the kimchi for fermentation gasses to occur. Put the whole cabbage leafs or some sort of weight on top of the cabbage to keep it submerged. If it is exposed to air, it can develop mold and bacteria. I read somewhere that a ziplock bag filled with water makes a good weight. You want the lid tight enough to keep things out. But, loose enough to allow gasses to escape.
• Place the jar or container in a pan or some vessel that can catch any liquid that may escape during fermentation. Keep the kimchi in a cool dark place, like a basement, closet, or lower shelf in a cabinet. The optimal temperature is 55 to 65 degrees. Let it do it's magic for about 3 days.
• Check the cabbage after three days to see if it is fermenting. If you tap it, you should see bubbles. If no bubbles, give it another day or two. If it is bubbling, Tighten the cap and put it in the fridge. Let it slowly ferment in the fridge for 10 to 12 days. While you can try some along the way, leaving it for the full time period results in the best flavor development and consistency.

Keyword Cabbage, Condiment, Fish Sauce, Kimchi, Korean, Napa, side dish, spicy, Staple, vegetarian