It’s in the can, man!

For all you beer lovers out there, today is National Beer Can Appreciation Day. I know, most of us appreciate what’s in the can more than the can itself. After all, you can’t judge a book by the cover. The holiday was created to celebrate this novel approach to packaging beer. It all started in 1935 when the Krueger beer company sold the first beer in a can. The cans were lighter than traditional bottles. And, they wouldn’t break like glass. But, they still weighed 1/4 pound, were made of tin, and required a crunch top opener, often referred to as a church key. To people just getting over prohibition, beer in a can was a welcome evolution. When they went to the bathtub and found it empty, they must have said, “Where’s the beer?” The surprising response would have been, “It’s in the can, man!”

We can thank the evolution of metal works for this development. Beer was traditionally stored in barrels or bottles up to this point. Bottles made it convenient to have a reasonable portion of beer anywhere one wanted. But, as mentioned above, glass breaks. Also, the color of the bottle makes a big difference. dark glass is best; because, green and clear bottles allow too much UV light in. This causes beer to spoil. Kegs and barrels eliminated these issues. But, they only worked for large amounts of beer. Up until the early 20th century, kegs and barrels were made of wood or ceramic materials. When metal kegs were introduced, it wasn’t long before the miniaturization process invented the beer can. Now, you could have the best of both worlds, portability, and preservation of that precious Ale.

It’s in the can, man! The evolution of the beer can

Why did it take so long? In 1795, Napoleon offered a prize for the invention of a storage vessel to preserve food his troops. As, with many other innovations in history, it was military needs that resulted in canned food as we know it. In 1810, the first patent was issued. And, by the 1820’s, canned food production came to America. There were a few advancements around the middle of the 19th century. Then, the can didn’t see any big improvements until beer in the 1930’s.

The first beer cans were made of tin, which is heavy and corrodes easily. And, you needed a special opener to get into them. Within a few years, manufacturers began to use different materials. Steel, and stainless steel replaced tin for a lighter, more reliable metal. Eventually, we landed on aluminum in the 1960’s. The thin, lightweight material allowed more product in a smaller container. This made it easier, and less expensive to ship more product. Plus, it was recyclable.

Along the way, there were developments in can opening technology. The Schlitz company (and others) made a can with a cone shaped top and twist off cap. This didn’t take off (Although, today there are more modern versions available from many of the bigger brewers). In the 1960’s, the flip top can came on the scene. You pulled the tab and threw it away. But, this was an environmental hazard. So, in the 70’s, they invented the cap we know today. The tab stays attached to the can. At this point, Beer in cans overtook the bottled beer market, and it never looked back.

But, it’s more than the can for collectors.

Each year, the aluminum industry makes about 3 to 4 million tons of aluminum cans and packaging. About 2/3 of that ends up in landfills. So, cans aren’t special at all. What is special is the artistry behind them. If you can find one of those old 1935 twist cap Schlitz cans, you’ve got yourself a gem. Or, if you have a can of Billy beer (made by President Jimmy Carter’s brother in the 1970’s), there’s a piece of history. What makes them unique is the rarity or innovation of the can.

Unique innovations:

I remember my brother coming home from Colorado in the mid 1970’s. He brought some Coor’s beer with him (not the same animal as the Coor’s light most people drink today). This was when pull tabs were on all the cans. They had a two punch opening system, you pressed in 2 pieces on the top of the can. One was to allow air to escape. The other was to drink through. Eventually, they figured out how to make just one hole. But, if you have one of those cans, that’s something unique.

Another can innovation came from our friends in Ireland. Guinness stout on tap is one of the most iconic drinks in a pub. But, when they put it in a can, it loses the charm and signature head that you get in a pub. So, in 1969, they began developing what they called a widget that would boost the pressure in the can to simulate the tap experience. In 1989, they finally started marketing this innovation. Unfortunately, while the cans performed okay when cold, if they weren’t super cold, the beer would nearly explode out of the can. It was like shaking up a can of beer and then watching it spray all over the place. They eventually worked the kinks out. So, if you have one of those first cans, that is a collectable (and a weapon). “what’s this little piece of plastic? It’s in the can man?”

Rare Brews:

If you can get your hands on some of the first cans of beer, you could be looking at a $10,000 piece of trash. For instance, A Flat top can of New Yorker beer from the late 1930’s or early 1940’s can fetch between $5k and $10k. Rheingold Pale double bock from 1937 can go between $8k to $20k. And, a screwcap Tallyhoe or appache ale can can demand as much as $25k to $30k depending on condition.

Unfortunately, to find cans from before the 1970’s is almost impossible. A lot of beer cans from the 70’s and 80’s were specifically designed with collectors in mind. So, although unique, they aren’t exceptionally valuable, strictly because of the supply and demand issue. Most were mass produced. So, they aren’t of interest to serious collectors. But, as with most things, there is a market for pretty much any old beer can you may come across. You can research values on line. But, if you are a serious beer drinker with a mancave, you may want to keep them for yourself.

In the eye of the beholder… And, it’s in the can man…

For most of us, and the collector amongst us, the beauty and value of a beer can is in the eye or hand of the beholder. I have a can of Budweiser from the early 1990’s. It should have gone into the recycling bin. And, whatever is inside of it is definitely not potable. But, I found it in my golf bag shortly after a good friend passed. The last time I saw him was that golf outing. RIP Arthur.

For some people, having a beer from somewhere they went, or a particular time in their life can have a lasting impact. Maybe, it was your trip to Roswell, when you had a Roswell Alien Beer. Or, if you are a beer connoisseur, maybe it was the best micro brew you tried. Maybe it was a beer you had while touring the rainforest.

Then, of course, there are culturally significant beers that drive collectors. Like, a 1969/1870 Boston Bruins Stanley cup Carling Black label beer.

Or, it could be related to a TV show or movie, or any other event.

Superior storage: it’s in the can, man

In past decades, canned beer was pedestrian. Micro and artisan brewers stood by the bottle as a superior vehicle for fine crafted ales. But, someone did the science, and many brewers listened. People believed that the aluminum of cans would taint the flavor of the beer. But, today’s cans have a coating that prevents leaching. And, the argument of glass over cans hits a big wall when you point out that kegged beer is in metal. Most people agree that beer from a tap is usually superior to bottled.

Then there is the preservation of the beer. Bottles allow light in. And, that’s the enemy of beer. Cans eliminate that problem. And, of course, cans are harder to break. Plus, they weigh less, and take up less space (being stack-able). So, from manufacturing, shipping, potential loss of product, and storage perspectives, the can is far superior. So, the winner of this debate: it’s in the can, man.

Of course, for us home brewers, canning your beer is a bit more of an issue. While it is easier to fill the cans, I don’t know too many people who would spend the money or have the space to put a canning machine in their home. Although, now that I say that, I am going to do some research.

A whole new Art Form

The history of beer intertwines with artistry. The act of making beer is an artistry in and of itself. But, cans and bottles offer a palette for visual artists as well. I remember when Ralph Steadman did a series of beer labels for the Flying dog brewery. I’m not sure if this was the first internationally renowned artist to use his talents for this genre, but, he wouldn’t be the last. In recent years, with the explosion of Artisan breweries, there has been an equally impressive explosion of beer can artistry. With over 2,500 microbreweries, another 7,000 brewpubs and taprooms, and dozens of mass production breweries in the USA, catching the eye of consumers is paramount.

So, the artwork on the can has to stand out. Some use folk art. Others use a simple logo style. Still others use photographs. But, there are dozens who use art that is worthy of galleries, exhibits, or graphic novels. There are contests and publications dedicated to the best beer label design. And, artists continue to push the envelope. This isn’t to say that the artistry on older cans wasn’t top notch. Some older cans are real standouts. But, most were designed by advertising firms. The name of the beer company was always prominent. With some of the newer cans, you have to really search for the brand. The art comes first. Of course, this doesn’t help sell the beer for the beer’s sake. But, it does catch they eye. Who cares what’s in the can, man?

What else can we do with beer cans?

And, if art on your can isn’t enough, you can always make things out of cans. In Northampton, MA, there is a beer can museum featuring collectible cans and art made from cans. And, there is an equally impressive semi-private museum in a basement in Taunton, MA. There is even a man in Texas who made a beer can house. So, enjoy the artistry of beer cans, while you enjoy our other beer holidays. And, maybe you can brew your own with this home brew recipe. Or this one:

28 Days Later October Ale

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 45 minutes mins

Cook Time 1 hour hr 30 minutes mins

Fermenting and bottling time 28 days d

Course beer

Cuisine American, Artisan, German, Octoberfest

Servings 5 Gallons

Ingredients

  

• 6 Gallons Water (3 gallons for cooking, then more to finish)
• 8 Lb Medium malt extract
• 1 quart Munich Malt
• 1 pint Carapils Malt
• 1 Pint Chocolate Malt
• 3 each cinnamon sticks
• 2 Oz Hallertau Hops
• 1 oz Cascades hops
• 1/2 oz Chinook Hops
• 1/2 oz Hallertau hops (finishing)
• 1 each defloculation tablet (or 1 oz Irish moss)
• 11.5 grams Lager yeast
• 3/4 cup corn sugar or other type of priming sugar

Instructions

 

• Sanitize all your equipment and containers at all steps of the process.
• Bring 3 gallons of water to a boil.
• Place the Malts in a cheesecloth sack and put in the water. Add in the cinnamon sticks. Taper it back to a simmer. Allow to simmer for 45 minutes. Then remove the bag, making sure to strain the liquid back into the pot.
• Whisk in the Malt extract and bring back to a simmer.
• Add in the Hallertau hops. Simmer for 45 minutes.
• Add the cascades hops and Irish moss or flocculation tablet. Simmer for another 10 minutes.
• Add in the remaining hops. Continue simmer for 5 more minutes.
• Strain the brew into a 5 gallon bucket using a sparging bag to remove as much sediment as possible. Take out the bag and add cold water to the wort. Transfer to a "carboy or fermenting tub. Allow to cool to room temperature. Then pitch the yeast.
• Put a stopper with a blow off tube in the carboy. Put the fermenter in a dark cool place like a closet. Allow the brew to ferment for 2 to 3 days with the tube so that the krausen (foamy discharge) can escape, and drain off into a container with water in it. Check the discharge a couple times a day.
• When the discharge level tapers off, replace the tube with an air lock. Allow to ferment an additional 11 days for a total of 14 days.
• After the initial fermentation, transfer the beer to a "raking" or bottling bucket. Strain it out during the transfer to remove excess sediment. Use a syphon for this process. You don't want to mix in the sediment in the bottom. Heat the priming sugar in about a cup of water. Whisk into the beer. Transfer the beer to bottles and/or kegs. Cap them and then allow the secondary fermentation to take place. Place the bottles or kegs in a dark cool place where they won't be disturbed for 2 weeks.
• The bottled beer should sit for 2 more weeks. Then, you can rfrigerate and enjoy.

Notes

At each step along the way, make sure you sanitize all your equipment. Not just cleaning. They need to be sanitized with a beer safe/food safe sanitizing solution and/or heat sanitizing. This can be done in a dishwasher if it has a sanitize setting. The temperature required needs to be over 190 degrees. If that type of temperature is not achievable, use a chemical sanitizer such as star San, Beer Clean, or one step. You need to sanitize every piece of equipment. I usually boil the bottle caps to sanitize them.

Keyword Ale, artisan, beer, Halloween, Home Brew, Octoberfest