Just keep peeling that onion
Well, we made it. It’s national Onion day. How did we ever make it this far without bursting into a celebration of the Allium family? Someone in PR really bungled the roll out of this holiday. For some reason it doesn’t get the kind of press that a Christmas, or even Flag day does. I suppose you could argue that it’s kind of a stinky holiday. But, that’s produce-ist. In fact, onions and the allium family are the basis of a large swath of foods across all nationalities. Spaghetti and meatballs: Onions. Scallion Pancakes, demi-glace, Salsa, and of course, the bloomin’ onion all rely on this oft maligned staple. You’ll discover more and more places it shows up: Just keep peeling that onion.
When you cook beans, rice, lentils, or a large variety of side dishes, chances are, onions are in the recipe. They are the basis for most soups. But, people just think of them as the ingredient that makes them cry. Or, they complain about the smell of onions and garlic. In the food industry and kitchens of foodies, though, we call them aromatics. Yes, there is a smell. But, whether it’s good or bad is a matter of perspective. I remember going to my Friend Jerry’s house when we were in school. His parents were “off the Boat” Italians. You could smell the garlic and onion of the marinara sauce that was always on the stove when you walked in the door. And, then there were his father’s home made sausages… Just a masterpiece.
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Just keep peeling that onion, you’ll find it everywhere
Onions are part of haute Cuisine and peasant cooking alike. They are staples in the highest priced restaurants, and the lowliest greasy spoon. And, they come in all kinds of shapes, sizes, and flavor profiles. Most people just think red, white, or green are the only types of onion. And, of course there is onion powder. But, there are so many more varieties that show up all over the place. Estimates say there are between 600 and 1,000 varieties of onion. In local markets we usually see about a dozen or two. Think: Leeks, scallions, chives, Spanish onions, Vidalia, Bermuda, etc.
Ramps are a prized variety that only comes out in the springtime, and finds its way onto high end menus in the most exclusive restaurants. Cipollini onions have a longer growing season, and they get the gourmet treatment too. These, and pearl onions can be a focal point of a dish, as opposed to your everyday onions who usually play a supporting role. Let’s not forget that stocks/broths are the basis of most soups and sauces. And, most of them have onion as an ingredient. So, Just keep peeling that onion, you’ll find it everywhere.
And, most last a long time
Have you ever heard of a root cellar? This is a place where people used to store root vegetables and staples like onions before refrigeration. They are the legendary: cool dry place. Nowadays, people just use their “pantry” or a cabinet. Onions are a pretty durable vegetable that last without refrigeration. But, do better in the colder environment of the fridge. They, typically last about a month or so in the pantry. But, they can go about 3 months in the climate controlled vegetable drawer in said fridge. So, there’s no reason not to have at least one on hand at all times. Get a bag of them, and forget about it. You keep the fridge stocked with beer. Why not onions?
Even after cutting, you can keep them in a bag or sealed container for about a week. The key is to keep them in a dryer area, like the produce drawer. If left in the main cabinet of the fridge, they are exposed to moisture which can cause rot and mold. Of course, Green onions like scallions and chives are more delicate. So, they tend to wilt quicker. But, again, if you wrap them in paper towels and keep them in the produce drawer, you can extend their life.
Onions as the star of the plate
According to Abe Simpson, wearing an onion on your belt was the style at the time. While this may or may not be true, we know that onions are too often relegated to supporting roles and laughed at. But, aside from onion soup and Onion Rings, they rarely show up as the center of the plate. And, it’s even more rare to find them in desserts despite having a sweet profile. Think about it. How many times have you seen “caramelized” onions on something like a pizza or our Onion Creme Brulee from last year? The natural sweetness of onions comes out when cooking. Maybe that’s why people love them so much, while they constantly malign them.
Granted, they have an aftertaste, smell, and linger on your breath. But, they do have some health benefits. They are low cal. Onions have little to no fat, and no cholesterol. There is potassium, fiber, protein, Vitamins C and B, and carbohydrates. Plus, they have anti-oxidant properties, and are purported to have a lot of health benefits, like lowering blood sugar, strengthening bones, and staving off cancer. I have heard people suggest eating a whole raw onion every day to keep cancer away. Good luck selling that one. Also, that guy doesn’t have many close friends (again, the smell).
So, Let’s make that Happen. Just keep peeling that onion.
Since they are good for you and very versatile, let’s make a dish where onion is the star. And, let’s not forget the variety we have to work with, especially when you include the whole allium family. Lay them out together and see how you can make multiple different components of a dish all with onions. Think: Chive oil, leek compote, onion confit, Shallot jam, and more. Just like we peel through the layers of an individual onion, we can layer the types of onion for a unique plate.
But, whatever you do, keep onions away from your dogs and cats. They may be tasty. But, they have compounds that cause various types of anemia in our pets. These can be fatal. Yes, that means onions can, literally, kill your pet. So, National onion day is strictly for humans. You may be aware that Lilies are dangerous to pets. Well, Allium and onions are a subcategory of the lily family. See what happens when you Just keep peeling that onion.
With that in mind, prep and keep your onions out of your pet’s reach. And, here are your recipes for a unique culinary experience brought to you by the Allium Family.
Today’s dish is:
4 Onion and Lemon tart With Shallot Cognac Jam and Chive oil drizzle
Serve it by itself or with a couple nice sides like a simple risotto or other starch and some fresh vegetables. Some rainbow chard would make for a colorful dish. You can substitute Gluten free flour if needed. But, know the consistency will be different. The same applies to using vegan substitutes. Eggs, cheese, and Cream naturally thicken. So, vegan substitutes won’t do that naturally. You could add a little cornstarch to try and emulate the consistency. It won’t be the same. But, it should stand up. You would also have to substitute the butter with a plant based version. These should work okay. It won’t be as rich as butter. But, the flakiness should be there.
4 Onion and Lemon tart
Equipment
- Tart pan or pie tin, pan
Ingredients
- 2 Cup Shaved Vidalia Onion
- 2 Cup Shaved Shallots
- 2 Cup Diced Leeks, the white part
- 1 Cup Chopped Fresh Scallions
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 6 Large Eggs
- 1 Cup Heavy Cream
- 1 Cup Gruyere Cheese, shredded
- The zest and juice of 2 Lemons
- 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Thyme
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- olive oil for cooking
- Enough Pie dough to make a crust in a tart pan or pie tin (recipe to follow)
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 350
- heat an even coating of olive oil in a large saute pan over medium high heat. Add in the Shallot, onion, leeks, and garlic. Saute until lightly browned, then drop the temperature and continue cooking until soft and juicy, it will be almost like a jam. Fold in the Scallions and set aside.
- Whisk eggs until Well blended. Add the Cream, cheese, lemon zest, thyme, and lemon juice. Season with Salt and pepper
- Roll out your pie dough and form a layer about 1/8 inch thick in a tart or pie pan. Place the pan on a sheet pan. Line the dough with a sprayed piece of aluminum foil. And fill this with rice or beans to keep the foil in place. Bake for about 10 to 15 minutes until the dough is slightly browned. This is called blind baking. You want the crust partially cooked before adding the other ingredients. Otherwise, it won't crisp up properly.
- Once the pastry shell is par-baked, spread the onions and cheese evenly inside it. Fill with the "custard mix (egg and cream). You want the filling to reach the top of the Pie shell, but not overflow it.
- Bake for about 30 minutes. Check if it's done. The Top should be brown, but not burnt, and the filling should be firm, not wiggly. If it needs more time, leave it in for 10 to 20 minutes. If it's getting too brown, cover with foil and finish.
- Remove from the oven and cool completely before cutting. If it doesn't set properly, it will be a mess to cut.
Notes
Chive Oil
Ingredients
- 2 Cup Olive Oil
- 1 Large Bunch Fresh Chives
- 5 or 6 medium garlic Cloves
- Salt and Pepper to taste
Instructions
- Roughly Chop the Garlic and chives into pieces no longer than an inch. Keep them separate. Heat 2 to 4 Tbsp oil in a saute pan. Lightly saute the garlic over medium high heat until softened. Add the chives and remove from the heat. You just want to brighten the color of the chives.
- Transfer this to a blender and add the rest of the oil and a little salt and pepper. Puree on the highest setting until the oil is a vivid green.
- Strain the oil through a coffee filter or cheese cloth. If you don't mind the chunks in the oil, you can skip straining. But, it looks cleaner without the pieces in it. Plus, you can use the strained out solids as a marinade for your protein like chicken, fish, or vegetables. Since the oil now has vegetables in it, you should keep it refrigerated until use.
Notes
Flaky tart dough
Ingredients
- 1.5 Cup AP Flour, plus extra for rolling
- 1 Stick (1/4#) Butter, cold
- 1/4 Cup Ice Water
- 1/2 tsp Salt
Instructions
- Cut the butter into pea sized pieces.
- Mix the salt and Flour. Then fold in the butter, coat it evenly. Then break up the butter a bit to moisten the dough and get it sticking. Add the water and knead until it resembles a dough.
- Lightly Flour a clean surface like a cutting board or sanitized counter. Place the dough ball on the surface and dust with more flour. Roll out until about 1/2 inch thick. Then , Fold it in 1/2. Re-form a ball and repeat twice. This layers the butter to make for a flaky crust. Cover the dough and let it rest at least 15 minutes.
- You can refrigerate for future use or roll it out now. To roll it out, make a round ball. Push the ball down until flat on top. Then, start with the rolling pin in the middle. Roll out from the center in one direction. Then return to the center and roll out in the other direction. Repeat until you get the desired thickness, usually about 1/8 inch. This method keeps the dough round to fit a round pan.
- To finish, you can either use it raw or par-baked. To par bake, spray a piece of foil bigger than the dough in the tin. Fit the foil into the dough and fill with beans, rice or some other item to apply weight to keep the shape. bake for about 10 to 15 minutes at 350. It will brown slightly and be cooked through. Give more time if necessary.
Shallot Cognac Jam
Ingredients
- 4 Cup Thin Sliced Shallot
- 2 Cup Thin Sliced Sweet Onion
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Thyme
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Chives
- 1/2 tsp Chopped Fresh Garlic
- 1 Tbsp Agave Syrup or Honey
- 1/2 Cup Cognac or Brandy
- olive oil for cooking
- Salt and Pepper to taste
Instructions
- Heat olive oil in a pan over medium high heat until it is almost to the smoking point. Add the shallots, onions, and garlic. Stir and cook until it starts to brown. Then, turn down the heat and continue cooking until it becomes soft.
- Turn the heat back up to high. Then add the cognac. Burn off the alcohol and reduce until the liquid is just a coating. Then stir in the agave and cook until the whole thing begins to thicken.
- Turn off the heat and add the chives and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Then transfer to a container and refrigerate. It will have a jam like consistency when cooled. Use this on a variety of dishes, Pizzas, sandwiches, or as a condiment on appetizers or entrees.