Merlot is decidedly French
Hello Friends. It’s drinking time again (Still?). In our long line of beer, wine and spirit celebrations, today celebrates the third most planted grape variety in the wine world. It’s International Merlot day. Despite Miles’s refusal to drink it in the movie “Sideways”, it is one of the great wines of the world. Merlot is decidedly French, being the predominant variety in Bordeaux. You may have heard of Bordeaux. While many Bordeaux wines are affordable, the name itself invokes visions of opulence and some of the most expensive wines in the world. While Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec also contribute to Bordeaux wines, Merlot is the most grown grape in the region. The blending of these varieties results in pure Oenophilic euphoria.
Merlot doesn’t get the accolades it deserves, largely due to it’s balance. This isn’t entirely true, though. There was a period in the 1990’s where it saw an insurgence on wine menus. But, for the most part, it doesn’t enjoy sustained support because it isn’t a big, bold red. Cabernet Sauvignon holds that title. Wine varieties fall on a scale from light to heavy. Pinot Noir comes in on the light side, Cab on the heavy side, and Merlot straddles the medium to heavy line. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon both come from the same Parent: Cabernet Franc. So, they share some characteristics. Depending on where they grow (warmer or cooler climate), sometimes they can be indistinguishable from each other. This is good news for Merlot drinkers, since Merlot tends to be less expensive.
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The Birds say Merlot is decidedly French
No, not the Byrds (although, they did make some fabulous music). And, they did enjoy wine from time to time. We are referring to the namesake birds of Merlot. Merlot, while grown all over the world now, claims roots in the Bordeaux Region of France, where it’s name comes from. There is a species of blackbirds in the area named Merle. They have bluish black coats that remind vintners of the bluish black grapes of the Merlot vine. The addition of “ot” in the word indicates a diminutive variation (In etymological terms). Thus: Merlot. And, indeed, grapes are generally smaller than birds. Hopefully, for the vintners, the birds don’t get all the grapes before they can be pressed into wine. Most vintners employ a variety of wildlife deterrents from reflective ribbon to bird nets to loud sound “cannons”to protect the vines.
The full spectrum
One of the problems with the popularity of Merlot stems from its variability. Beyond the usual terroire variances, the weather itself plays a difference. Much of the Merlot in Bordeaux (and some other areas) grows in colder areas. This creates a dryer, more tannic wine. In warmer regions the fruitiness and sweetness flourish. As a result, you can get vastly different wines. They can be translucent with just a tinge of color, to a deep ruby red. While one evokes a plum and cassis fruitiness, others may sport a predominance of vanilla, spice, and Earthy tones.
Some of the most expensive wines in the world incorporate Merlot, such as Chateau Petrus from Pomerol France. At the same time, Merlot factors into some of the most affordable wines too. When American vintners first started making Merlot, the results were mixed. And, when you compare them to some of the great Bordeaux’s they were an embarrassment. Since then, though, they found a niche. And, the variation is marked. Grapes grown in valleys tend to be sweeter and more fruit forward, while mountain grown ones, and ones from Washington state trend more toward the traditional French styles.
And, don’t forget, even if you don’t explicitly pick a Merlot to drink today, there’s a good chance it’s in most of your red wine blends. Remember, Cabernet Sauvignon is the number one red varietal. But, most of the time the vintners blend it with other varieties to balance it. Merlot, and the parent grape: Cabernet franc are most common. So, even if you pick a generic red wine, there’s a good chance Merlot is involved.
Swirl, sip, enjoy!
When reading reviews of Merlot, you may come across some interesting flavor descriptions. Here is a quote from a Food and wine review of a Napa Merlot:
“Ripe red berry fruit and cherries find counterpoints in dusty tannins and carob, and minerality pulses through each sip.”
While descriptions like this make sense to some wine drinkers, it sounds like a lot of generic fluff to ordinary people. Still, it does give you an idea of what to expect. Everyone can relate with red berry and cherry flavors. But, tannin, carob, and “minerality” tend to be a bit more abstract. While carob is an Earthy chocolate tone, Tannins and minerality pretty much describe the mouthfeel of a red wine. So, now you know you’re drinking wine and not juice.
Another thing that often comes up in wine reviews is talk of swirling and/or decanting a wine. This is what it sounds like. To decant, you pour the wine into a larger vessel. It does a similar thing to what swirling does: Allow air to incorporate with the wine. Remember, the wine has been in a bottle for years. When exposed to air, hidden flavors pop out. This is why you should always wait before drinking, especially with well aged wines. A freshly poured glass from a just opened bottle will taste vastly different from one that has time to “breathe”. For more on tasting wine, see our post from National drink wine day.
Merlot is decidedly French, but wildly varying
If you read the reviews in that “Food and wine” article, each wine tasted sounds like something completely different. While Duckhorn boasts Hoisin, Cassis, and Violets, Chappellet “is bursting with aromas of toasty cacao nibs, espresso beans, grilled vanilla, cassis, and plums.” meanwhile, Meeker makes a wine heavy on “goji berries, pomegranate juice, and rooibos tea“. They all sound like completely different wines. But, it’s all Merlot. So, Miles (From the Movie Sideways) was wrong to stereotype Merlot. This is pure predjudice, since you can’t judge a wine by name alone. This, also, makes it harder to choose wines. Do I want Cassis and Grilled vanilla or Goji Berries and Rooibos tea? This is why reading reviews and/or talking to your local wine professional are important in picking the right wine.
Be sure to inquire about Sweet VS dry, Fruit forward VS tannic, and whether it’s more berry or plum like. Or simply say, “I want a Merlot indicative of the art form”. Be careful with this, though, you could end up with a $2,000 bottle. The best strategy is to tell them the occasion, Your experience level, and price range. While you can spend upwards of $20 for a good Merlot, you may find some good bargains under $10, and some truly special wines for extra money. Duckhorn’s Three palms comes in around $125. Chappellett is around $85. But, Benziger has a fine Merlot for around $13, as well as Murphy Good and Kendall Jackson, among others. There is no need to break the bank.
A nice Pair
While downing multiple bottles of Merlot has it’s appeal, It’s probably best to pair it with some food that plays well with the complex notes of the wine. So, what are those trademark flavors? Plum, berries, vanilla, spice, herbs, and Earthy tones. Being a moderately heavy wine, we should pick something with relatively bold flavors. Cheese is always a good option with any wine. And, given Merlot’s characteristics, Some bolder cheeses are in order. A Tallegio or Roquefort will do nicely. As the old saying goes: if it smells like feet, it’s good to eat. If you go with a more mild cheese, make sure it’s aged. Mild cheeses don’t stand up as well to heavier wines. You want the flavor of the cheese to break through. You don’t want the wine to overpower the food.
For a more substantial pairing, we suggest meaty dishes, whether it’s actual meat or vegetarian options, pick something that has a strong flavor, Like eggplant or Mushroom. Pasta and red sauce work well. But, being a French varietal, perhaps something more on the classical side, like a cassoulet, or Lamb with a cassis demi glace. The cassis mirrors and accents the berry notes of the Merlot. If Seafood is tour thing, lighter fish like Sole or Haddock may not be the best option. Try something a little bolder like Monkfish, Lobster, or swordfish. Try some of our recipes, or play around with it. maybe even serve it with dessert: Berry pies and chocolate tortes work fine, even though I wouldn’t consider it a dessert wine. Think of it like adult grape juice.
Sante!
French Cassoulet with Duck Confit
Ingredients
- For the Duck Confit
- 4 each duck legs Medium to large
- 8 each garlic cloves (crushed)
- 4 Tbsp Kosher salt
- 1/2 cup sliced shallots
- 4 cups Duck Fat (you can do a mix of duck fat and oil if duck fat is hard to find)
- 8 each Thyme sprigs
- 8 each parsley sprigs
- 1 Medium carrot chopped
- 1 Tbsp Black Peppercorns
- 2 each Bay leaves
- For the Cassoulet:
- 2 cups Large White beans (cannelini is preferred)
- 1 cup diced white onion
- 1 cup diced celery
- 1 cup diced carrot
- 1 TBSP Chopped fresh garlic
- 8 each thyme sprigs
- 8 each rosemary sprigs
- 1 each Bay leaf
- 1 cup Red wine
- 1/2 cup diced pancetta
- 1 cup diced french style sausage
- 1 cup Diced Pancetta
- 8 cups Beef or veal stock
- 1 Bunch Broccolini Aspiration
- olive oil
- Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
- Cure the duck legs: Rub the duck with salt, garlic, and herbs. Refrigerate overnight, up to 2 days.
- Soak the beans over night in water.
- make the confit: Brush off the salt. Reserve for later seasoning. Heat a heavy pan over high heat. Sear the duck until it is a solid brown. There should be a good amount of duck fat rendered out. Add in the vegetables and stir around. Add in the rest of the ingredients and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat, cover with foil, and, put in a preheated 300 degree oven. Let it cook for at least 2 hours. The meat should be ready to fall off the bones at that point. You could also do this in a hot pot or slow cooker (see manufacturers instructions). Allow the duck to cool in the oil naturally. This will maintain the moistness.
- Make the cassoulet: Heat the stock in a pot to a simmer. Render the bacon in another pot. Then add in the Sausage and pancetta. Stir around. add in the vegetables and garlic. cook until translucent. Add in the beans and herbs and stir until the beans are well coated with the flavors in the pot.
- Add in the wine and reduce until it is almost gone. Then add in the stock. Bring the mixture to a simmer. Then let it cook for several hours until the beans are soft and the stock becomes a Saucy Coating. Season and test that the flavors are good. When it is done, the beans should still maintain their shape, but have some give. You don't want to overcook them. If you need to add more liquid to get them cooked through, add water or stock. Again, this can be done in a slow cooker following manufacturer's instructions. This way, you can set it in the morning and have it ready to go at night.
- Heat a little olive oil in a saute pan. Saute the broccolini over high heat. Add a little water, salt, and pepper. It should be a vibrant green. This should take about a minute.
- The duck can be served on or off the bone. If you decide to take it off the bone, the meat should just fall off if it is cooked enough. Just, be careful of the thin bones. You might miss them. Serving the leg whole makes a nice presentation too. So, either way.
- For service: Remove the bay leaves and herb stems. Scoop the cassoulet into a bowl or crock. Top with the donfit duck and broccolini. Serve with a hearty red wine. Enjoy!
Truffled Grilled Eggplant Plank with Wild Mushroom Ragout Served with Caramelized Leek studded Cauliflower Puree and garlic Spinach Timbale
Ingredients
- For the Eggplant
- 1 Large Eggplant
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh Rosemary
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh Thyme
- 1/2 cup Balsamic Vinegar
- Olive Oil
- salt and pepper to taste
- Truffle oil to Drizzle
- For Mushroom Ragout
- 2 Cups Assorted Wild Mushrooms, Cut in large chunks or slices
- 1/2 Cup Sliced Fresh Shallot
- 1/2 tsp Chopped Fresh Garlic
- 1/2 cup Sherry Wine
- 1/2 Cup vegetable stock (optional)
- 1 Cup Grape tomatoes cut in 1/2
- 2 Tbsp Fresh Basil, sliced
- Truffle oil to taste
- For Cauliflower Puree
- 2 Cup Fresh Cauliflower
- 2 Cup Yukon Gold Potato
- 1/2 Cup Fine Diced Leeks
- Salted Water to boil
- 1/4 Cup Coconut Oil
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- For Garlic Spinach Timbale:
- 1/2 Lb Fresh Spinach
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 1/4 Cup Diced Sweet Onion
- 1/4 cup Diced Red Pepper
- olive oil for cooking
- Salt and Pepper to taste
Instructions
- Prepare the eggplant: Chop your garlic and herbs, toss with oil and vinegar, and season. Peel and slice the eggplant into 1/2 inch Thick Planks or rounds. marinate the eggplant for about an hour
- Make the Ragout: Heat olive oil in a pan over medium high heat. Saute the garlic and shallot until translucent. Add the mushrooms and cook until soft. Add the sherry and cook down until half the liquid is gone. Then add the tomatoes. Cook until they become soft, but don't fall apart. If the sauce looks a little dry, add a little vegetable stock. Season with salt and pepper, Add the basil and truffle oil at service time.
- Make the Cauliflower Puree: Boil the potatoes in salted water until slightly soft, drain well, toss in olive oil, and spread out on a sheet pan. Toss the cauliflower in olive oil, salt, and pepper. Place both in a preheated 400 degree oven. Cook until soft. In the meantime, heat some olive oil in a saute pan. Saute the leeks over medium heat until translucent. When the Cauliflower and potatoes are done, puree in a food processor, Add in half of the coconut oil. Check the consistency. If it is not too thin, add more coconut oil. Season the puree and fold in the leeks at the end. Keep warm until service or reheat when ready.
- make the spinach Timbale: Heat olive oil in a pan over medium high heat. Saute the onion and garlic until translucent. Add the peppers and spinach and cook them down stirring until the spinach becomes wilted and pliable. Season the mix, Then strain off extra liquid. Stuff the spinach and pack tightly into ramekins. Hold in a warming oven.
- Grill the eggplant over a preheated grille or grille pan. Cook until nice lines appear and the "steak" softens all the way through.
- Assemble the plate. Carefully spoon the Puree into the middle of the plate, maybe slightly off center. Prop the eggplant against or on top of the puree. Turn the spinach Timbale out onto the plate next to the eggplant. Top the eggplant with the ragout. Then, drizzle a little truffle oil on top of the eggplant and ragout. Serve hot.
Herb Seared Monkfish with White Wine, Leek, and Bacon Beurre Blanc accompanied by Cauliflower and Golden Potato Puree, and Lemon Scented Brussel Sprouts
Ingredients
- 2 Lb Monkfish Filet
- 1 cup Chopped fresh herbs, Parsley, dill, chive, Basil, Thyme
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 1/4 cup Olive oil
- 1/4 cup Jullienne fresh leeks
- 1 Cup White Wine
- 1/4 cup diced raw bacon Use Slab bacon if available or thick cut
- 1/4 cup Chicken Broth or fish stock
- 1/4 Lb Sweet Unsalted butter cut into slices
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- 1 whole lemon, Just the juice
- For the Cauliflower Potato Puree
- 4 Cups Raw cauliflower cut into smaller florets so the moisture can cook out.
- 2 Cups Raw peeled potato, preferably golden
- 4 Tbsp Sweet unsalted butter
- Sea salt and Ground white pepper to taste, plus oil to coat cauliflower
- For Brussel Sprouts
- 1 Lb Brussel Spouts, trim bottoms and split in 1/2
- Oil to saute
- 2 Tbsp Sugar
- 1/4 cup Lemon juice
- A little water if needed
- salt and pepper to taste
- Garnish the plate with lemons and herbs
Instructions
- Trim the tough skin and membrane from the monkfish and cut into 4 equal portions. If you can get your fishmonger to do this for you, even better.
- Combine, the garlic, herbs, and a little salt and pepper in a mixing bowl. Toss the fish in the herb mixture to coat evenly.
- Heat a large saute pan over medium high heat. Put in a good amount of olive oil. Place the fish in the pan when hot. Sear one side until lightly browned, then turn over and sear the other for about a minute.
- Transfer the fish to a flat pan sprayed with pan spray, place in 350 degree oven to finish, about 10 minutes. You can check the temperature with a meat thermometer. It should be 145 to 155 degrees.
- Start the sauce before putting the fish in the oven and make it while the fish is roasting. You can use the same pan as the fish if there aren't too many stray herbs that will burn in the pan. Or you can wipe it out and start fresh.
- Heat a saute pan and add in the bacon pieces, render until it becomes brown and the fat is liquid. Drain off some of the fat if it looks like too much. Add in the leeks and stir occasionally. Cook until they become translucent. Then add the wine and cook it down by 1/2 volume. Add in the stock and reduce that by 1/2. Before you serve, whisk in the butter a little at a time so it blends in, but doesn't separate. It will create a creamy sauce. You don't want it to melt and separate.
- Continue whisking and add in the lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Make the sauce as close to service as possible. If you try to reheat it could "break" and separate into liquid and melted butter. This is why the butter is added last (with the seasoning and lemon juice).
- For the Puree: Boil potatoes in lightly salted water.
- When they are fully boiled, soft to the touch, but not falling apart, strain them.
- Toss the cauliflower in a little oil, salt, and pepper and roast in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes. They should be soft to the touch.
- Put the cauliflower into a food processor while still hot. Puree until smooth, scraping down the sides occasionally. Add in the potatoes and follow the same procedure. Be careful how long you puree for. The potatoes can become gummy.
- With the machine running, add in the butter, continue pureeing. Add in salt and pepper to finish and transfer to a bowl (or pan if it needs to be reheated) and test to make sure the seasoning is good and it's not too thin.
- For the brussel sprouts, heat oil in a pan over medium high heat. Add in the brussels and allow them to get some color on one side, Then toss or stir to get color on both sides. Stir often to keep from over cooking. They should still be firm. Add sugar and stir. Allow the sugar to melt. Then add the lemon juice and cook down. If the brussels are still undercooked you may add a little water. The liquid should be mostly gone except for a light glaze. Add salt and pepper. Stir that in.
- To Plate: Spoon the Cauliflower puree unto the plate and drag it a bit to make a trough to put the fish on. Alternatively, you could mound the puree to give the dish height. Place the fish atop the puree. Arrange the Brussels around the puree. Spoon the sauce over the fish and then garnish with lemons and herbs or microgreens. Enjoy with a lighter ale, like Harp or Smithwicks or a nice white wine.