Mezcal by any other name

When you say tequila, everybody knows what you’re talking about. But, mention Mezcal and confusion sets in. Isn’t that the booze with the worm in it? Doesn’t it taste horrible? Well, we have news for you. It’s the same thing. Tequila conforms to strict guidelines of where it comes from and the type of Agave used. Anything that doesn’t adhere to the tequila guidelines is Mezcal. And, it doesn’t have psychedelic properties. You’re thinking of Mescaline, a hallucinogenic compound found naturally in certain forms of cactus (although, some say that eating the worm in mezcal will lead to hallucinations). So, for all you tequila fans who hesitate to try mezcal because it’s either too exotic, possibly dangerous, or a cheap knock off, just remember tequila is Mezcal; and, Mezcal by any other name is still mezcal. So, let’s get set to celebrate National Mezcal day, which is today.

I remember the first time I tried mezcal, it had a worm in the bottle. And, it tasted like gasoline. Basically, it wasn’t a pleasant experience. But, being young and out to prove something about how tough you are or some other stupid benchmark, it was “cool”. In reality, it was cheap, rotgut crap. Over the years, experience and education broadened my horizons to appreciate what real mezcal and tequila can and should be. Ironically, despite my early experience with that cheap mezcal, It’s not just a cheap knock off in all cases. In fact, you can pay hundreds of dollars for a good mezcal, just like you would for tequila. Remember, tequila is a denominazione, like champagne or Bordeaux. It’s more about the location than the product. Although, most Mezcal starts with roasted agave, creating a smoky flavor. But, it doesn’t have to be.

Mezcal by any other name still starts with sweet agave

Despite Spanish settlers claiming they invented mezcal and tequila, the name Mezcal actually comes from The Nahuati (uto Aztecan) language spoken by indigenous peoples of Mexico. It refers to liquor produced from roasted agave (also known as maguey). Although, the liquor the natives made is pulque, a milky somewhat sour, yeasty drink that dates back millennia. While it still exists, After European settlers came, it first became more available, then lost favor in the last 100 years thanks to beverages like beer that are easier to make and more refreshing.

While Pulque had a following, it was the European settlers who helped develop what we now call mezcal and tequila. Today, it’s the most recognized drink from Mexico. While Tequila is the most popular, and mezcal the catch all term to describe tequila like substances, there are also other variations. There is Raicilla, a sweeter variation that actually comes from Jalisco (the home of Tequila). And, there is bacanora, a lighter, less smoky version of Mezcal. Plus, there is another mezcal’ish beverage called Sotol, from the chihuahua region that uses a different type of cactus all together. It’s very rare to find mezcal or variations made outside Mexico. But, in South Africa, they do make a product labeled Agava, so as not to confuse it with Mezcal or tequila. Australia and India also have Agave based spirits.

But, Americans have found it cost prohibitive to make it here so far. Although, sometimes, Producers import bulk tequila and bottle it in the USA. But, when they do that, it can’t say 100% agave on the label.

It’s all about variety

When you compare tequilas, you taste what the producer does with the same plant. So, the variations occur in the type of roasting, barrel aging, and a host of factors, mostly controlled by the distiller. But, Mezcal has a broader palate since it doesn’t have to be strictly blue agave. There are over 200 varieties of Agave like The Century plant, Americana, Octopus, foxtail, Queen Victoria, and more. So, it makes sense that each of these has a different flavor. Thus, you have the potential for a far greater variance in final products. Think of it like berries: Tequila would be blueberry. But, What about strawberries, raspberries, logan berries, etc? But, someone decided that blue agave was the highest quality. Perhaps it is. Does that mean other types of agave can’t have interesting qualities? No. And, Mezcal can use blue, and even be made the same way as tequila.

So, what’s not to like about mezcal? Of course, having access to different varieties of agave make it harder to know what you are getting. That’s the downside of choice. But, remember, ancient Aztec and Mayans used whatever agave they had. And, it was central to their way of life. The agave served as a religious symbol in ancient Mexican lore. They cooked the Heart (Pina) and fermented it in tribute to the Gods. There is a myth that says a lightning bolt struck an agave plant, cooking the pina and releasing juices. This liquid became known as the elixir of the gods. And, many people still refer to it as such to this day (mostly after drinking too much). Therefore, whether it’s mezcal, tequila, Pulque, or another variation, when you drink it, you are participating in a ritual that predates Columbus.

A bad reputation

There is a lot of confusion over mezcal. remember when I told you about my first encounter with it? Yeah, that’s why. And, as we just discussed, the fact that it doesn’t have to conform to the strict standards of tequila, it’s a rebel, a maverick. People think of it as this manly and/or hip thing to drink. And, it’s become a cult favorite in hip hop circles as of late. There are awful songs and videos where it features prominently in a way that’s supposed to be alluring, but, really makes people look kind of silly. With song titles like mezcal, mint gum, and cocaine, it definitely gets a bad rap. But, mezcal by any other name is still mezcal.

While there are some truly bad mezcals out there, it’s truly unfair to pigeon hole the entire genre. Remember, it isn’t just one thing. That can be a good or bad thing. Don’t just go out and buy whatever has the name mezcal on the label. It will take some research. Read labels and reviews. Beside using a variety of agaves, mezcal is, also, usually, roasted (creating a smoky flavor), while tequila, generally uses steamed agave. That smokiness can impart off-putting flavors like petrol, rubber, and model glue. Do I detect a bouquet of Duco? But, when done well, the combination of wild agave, roasting, and artisan distilling may result in such wonderful flavors as jalapeno, pineapple, citrus, pepper, mint, and licorice. So, before buying a bottle, find out if it’s one of the latter, and not a bottle of lighter fluid.

mezcal by any other name makes for unique cocktails

While the manly man drinks mezcal straight , and relishes that gasoline flavor, people not living in denial of actual enjoyment may prefer a higher quality mezcal in a specialty cocktail. Of course, you can always do the classic Mezcalrita (mezcal instead of tequila with orange liqueur, lime, and simple syrup). But, don’t stop there. How about a bloody smoky Maria? That is a Bloody Mary with mezcal instead of vodka. The smoky flavor of the mezcal really opens this savory cocktail into a new dimension.

Here are a couple other ideas to try as well:

• Naked and Shameless: 1 oz Mezcal, 1 oz Chartreusse, 1 oz Aperol, 3/4 oz Lime Juice, 1 oz Papaya juice, 1 oz Simple Syrup, Mint and lime garnish
• Mezcal Paloma: 2 Oz Mezcal, 4 oz Grapefruit soda, 1/2 oz fresh squeezed Lime juice, Salt and sugar for the rim of the glass, and citrus garnish
• Polar Bear: 2 oz Mezcal, 1 oz Vermouth, 1/2 oz Creme de menthe, a dash of bitters. Mix this like a martini, and serve strained with mint leaves as a garnish.
• Ready, Fire, Aim: 2 oz Mezcal, 1 oz Pineapple Juice, 3/4 oz Lime Juice, 1 oz Honey, 1 Slice Pineapple, 1 slice jalapeno or other chili, Pink peppercorn to garnish. Muddle the honey, pineapple, and chili. Add ice, Add the mezcal and juices. Shake in a shaker and strain into a glass. Grind a little pink peppercorn to garnish.

So, what do you say? It’s time to get your mezcal on! Drink up Bi…es!