What’s Zin it for me?
Well, we made it, the Holidays are upon us. And, here’s one that may get lost in the shuffle. It’s national Zinfandel Day. Some people frown on this wine. That has a lot to do with a trend started in the 1980’s when White Zinfandel was all the rage. Brands like Sutter Home, Beringer, and Gallo mass produced a rose wine that earned the description jammy, sweet, and light. These wines still flourish to this day. They tend to be wines for people who don’t really drink wine, having few characteristics of what drives oenophiles to the art form. Wine snobs would say, What’s Zin it for me? That is until they try red Zinfandel. Tannin rich wines like Cabernet and Syrah tend to understate the fruit flavor. But, Zinfandel fills that gap.
Zinfandel is the third Most Planted grape in California (After Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay). While the bulk of the market is White Zinfandel, there are plenty of reds out there. Most of it hails from California, especially in Sonoma and Napa Valley. But, Growers across the Sierra Nevada Mountain range produce some fine examples today. Ironically, there are few East coast examples of the wine. The grape first entered the Country in New York, and spread via Boston. While it has roots in European varieties, Zinfandel is a uniquely American Grape, and something we should be proud of. With all the talk of Buy American, and American exceptionalism, why isn’t this grape touted as an American Success story?
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Grape Pioneers said, What’s Zin it for Me?
maybe that’s because the feeble attempt at a pun is not that great. But, that doesn’t mean the grape isn’t. It actually dates back to around 6000 BC in the Caucasus region of Eastern Europe, most notably Croatia. Zinfandel and its related grapes spread through Europe from there. In Italy, it goes by the name Primitivo. By the early 1800’s it came to America via Austria. George Gibbs, a horticulturist from Long Island introduced the grape to Samuel Perkins of Boston. He nurtured some vines, and began selling “Zenfendal” as a table grape. Most of the Boston variety grew in hot houses, since the temperate climate wasn’t conducive to the development of the grape. He also had a variety named Black St Peter’s, with British roots that turned out to be zinfandel as well.
By the 1850’s, during the Gold Rush, both grapes found their way to California. Around 1857, The Oak Knoll Vineyard, north of Napa produced the first commercially bottled zinfandel. The original vines earned the Moniker “old vines”, which produce the most prized Zinfandels. Unfortunately, many of the vines were rooted up during the prohibition era. Not by the government, but by the producers, who began selling them to people for home wine making.
After the depression, Zinfandel sunk into obscurity, until, it got some well deserved press in 1972. Suddenly, it became “California’s own red grape”. And, it went from being a blending grape to the star of the bottle. With White grapes in short supply, and high demand, California vintners tasked with an alternative experimented with blush wines. Sutter Home developed what they labeled “White Zinfandel”. The original versions were sickly sweet and cloying. But, more modern versions drink better.
Those in the know, realize the potential
While white zinfandel re-invigorated interest in the grape, it also destroyed its reputation. Since it wasn’t labeled blush or rose, uneducated consumers thought it was just a tinted white wine. But, some great vintners rediscovered the potential of the great reds to be had. Having a high sugar content, Zinfandel can boast alcohol contents over 15% (unlike white zinfandel, which is low in alcohol). Most other varieties max out around14. This is why it ended up in some fortified wines before returning to its rightful place as a single grape variety like Cabernet or Chardonnay.
Zinfandel has slipped in and out of favor over the years. For a while, it made a run at California Cabernets and Merlots for high sales. But, popularity has waned in recent years. Which is indeed a shame, as it is a very flavorful wine. But, marketers and trends have favored Pinot noir, and the more traditional Old world grape varieties. But, as far as I’m concerned, they can have their mass popularity. Zinfandel is a hidden treasure. When people flocked to California in the 19th century with claims of gold in the hills, they didn’t realize there was red gold with a funny name. You can hear echoes through the canyons of “What’s zin it for me…
What’s zin it for flavor?
Cabernet Sauvignon is a Heavier red. Pinot Noir is light. Merlot often takes a place in between with a medium body trending toward heavy. Zinfandel is in the same category as Merlot: Medium to heavy. But, it packs so much more flavor IMHO. Merlot tends to be a substitute or adjunct to Cabernet. In fact French winemakers have a history of substituting it for the fabled Cabernet. In a way, Merlot is a poser, evoking the ire of some wine snobs like Miles in “Sideways”. Unfortunately, he liked Pinot Noir, which is also a French mainstay. Today, despite the huge political divide, we should be proud to drink an American wine with so much to offer.
You ask: What’s zin it for me? How about this: a Dry red wine packed with fruit? High tannin and low acidity? And, talk about flavor: this baby is jammy with a wealth of juicy fruit flavors. Think blackberry, raspberry, strawberry, Cinnamon, tobacco, and some surprising flavors like apricot jam, and a palate stimulating black and green pepper effect. Remember, some vintners actually used it to make port, so it has potential as a great dessert wine. At the same time, the body, tannin, and dry finish make it a perfect wine for any course in the culinary world. High sugar tends to drive some people from this wine. But, in the hands of a gifted winemaker, it’s truly a magnificent wine.
What are you waiting for?
While it’s true that half of Americans don’t know what they want, and tend to pick things based on questionable information, we still have things to be proud of. Zinfandel is one of those. So, don’t just sit there. If you have a bottle of Zinfandel in your home, open it right now. If not, run out and get a bottle. Enjoy it with a meal, some fine artisan cheese, or on its own. We have a few recipes that go well with it. So, get a bottle now. And, see what a lot of people have been missing or overlooking. Then, you will know What’s zin it for me.
Cheers!
Truffled Goat Cheese and Ramps Flan with Morel and Asparagus Salad
Ingredients
- olive oil for cooking
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- For Flan
- 1 Cup Fresh Ramps, Cleaned and trimmed, plus a few extra for garnish
- 1/2 tsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 12 Each Large Egg yolks
- 3 cups Heavy Cream
- 1 Cup Crumbled Goat Cheese
- 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Thyme
- Truffle oil and truffle shavings to taste
- For Salad:
- 4 Oz baby greens, arugula or whatever is freshest
- 8 Oz Fresh Morel Mushrooms
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh garlic Scapes
- 1 Bunch Asparagus
- 1/2 Cup Sliced Fresh Spring Onions
- 1 Cup White Wine
- 1 Medium Lemon: Zest and Juice only
- 1/2 Cup Olive Oil
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Marjoram
- Grape tomatoes for garnish
- Extra fresh herbs for garnish
Instructions
- Soak the morels in cool water for about 20 minutes to remove any dirt. Remove from the water, and soak a second time. They tend to get a lot of grit inside the gills.
- Preheat oven to 375
- Heat a little olive oil in a saute pan over medium high heat. Saute ramps and garlic, stirring as needed. Cook until translucent. Allow to cool.
- Whisk eggs until beaten smooth. Continue whisking in the cream, salt, pepper, and Thyme. Add in about a tablespoon of truffle shavings and a splash of truffle oil. Fold in the goat cheese.
- Spray individual ramekins or foil cups with pan spray. Fill each evenly with the flan mixture. Place on a sheet pan and bake in the oven about 30 minutes. You want them firm, but not too puffed up. If the center is still a bit runny, cook a little longer. 10 minutes should do.
- Heat a little olive oil in a pan. Saute the garlic scapes and spring onions until soft. Add in the mushrooms and cook until soft. Then add the wine and cook until it evaporates. You want it to create a glaze on the mushrooms and onions. Add in the asparagus, stir, and remove from heat. The residual heat will cook the asparagus. You want it al dente.
- Grill extra ramps for garnish if desired.
- Whisk the lemon juice, zest, oil, salt, pepper, and marjoram together. Toss the greens, asparagus, mushrooms etc in. Mix well.
- Invert the flans onto individual plates. Garnish with the salad, tomatoes, and grilled ramps.
Rosemary Goat Cheese Gougeres
Ingredients
- 1 Cup Milk
- 4 Oz Unsalted Butter
- 1 Cup AP flour
- 4 large Eggs
- 1 Cup Gruyere cheese shredded
- 1/2 Cup Crumbled Goat Cheese
- 1/2 tsp Fresh Ground Nutmeg
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Rosemary
- Kosher salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 400
- Bring milk and butter to a boil in a heavy pot. Then stir in the flour with a wooden spoon. Stir frequently until the dough pulls away from the pan. Continue to cook for another minute , stirring continuously to prevent burning.
- Remove dough to a mixing bowl. Whip in the eggs, one at a time. Make sure each one is fully incorporated before adding the next one. This is easiest if done in a mixer. But, it can be done by hand if you want a bit of a workout. Add seasonings and rosemary. Then fold the two cheeses in by hand. Make sure the goat cheese doesn't break down too much. You want creamy pockets in the puff. Have a little extra gruyere to sprinkle on top.
- Line sheet pans with parchment paper or a non stick liner. Put the dough in a pastry bag. You can use a star tip or plain tip. Pipe mounds of the dough about the size of a quarter onto the lined sheet pans. Leave enough space between each to expand. Sprinkle a little extra cheese on top for visual effect.
- bake for about 20 minutes. If they still look a little pale, give a couple more minutes. They should have an even brownish hue. And, when you tap them, they should be crisp on the outside with a hollow sound inside.
- Serve hot. They can be made ahead of time and reheated at 350 degrees for a few minutes if necessary. Serve by themselves or with a nice fondue or tomato sauce.
Notes
Thyme scented Beef Stew with Candied Turnips and Brussel Sprouts
Ingredients
- 2 Lb Cubed beef (Use a bottom round or shoulder cut, not a high quality cut like sirloin)
- 1/2 cup AP flour
- 1/4 Lb Unsalted Butter
- 1 Cup red wine
- 1/2 cup Sweet Onion in 1 inch squares
- 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh garlic
- 1/4 Cup Chopped Fresh Thyme
- 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Sage
- 1 cup Potatoes, peeled and cut in 1 inch cubes
- 1 cup Sweet Potatoes, peeled and cut in 1 inch cubes
- 1/2 Cup brussel sprouts, ends snipped and cut in 1/2
- 1/2 Cup Carrots Cubed
- 1/2 cup Celery Cubed
- 2 Quarts Beef or veal stock
- For Candied Turnips:
- 1 Lb Turnips, Peeled and cut into 1 inch Cubes
- 1/2 stick Unsalted Butter
- 1/2 cup Brown Sugar
- 1/2 Cup Orange Juice
- Salt and Pepper to taste
Instructions
- Season the flour with salt and pepper. Toss the beef cubes in the flour and coat evenly.
- Melt the butter in a heavy pot or dutch oven over high heat. When fully melted add the beef. Cook evenly let the floured sides brown.
- Add the onion and garlic and stir. Cook until translucent, stir frequently to prevent the flour and butter form burning. If there is any leftover flour add it in and stir. This creates a roux that will thicken the sauce. Add in the celery and carrots. Stir and cook another minute or two.
- Deglaze the Pan with red wine. Stir to mix. The flour and butter mixture will thicken the wine as it reduces. Cook off the alcohol for a minute or two. Then add in the Stock and herbs. Turn down the heat and allow to simmer for about an hour. At this point, test the meat to see if it is tender yet. It should still be relatively firm, but, yield to a fork.
- Add in the Potatoes and sweet potatoes. Stir them in. Add more liquid if necessary. Bring the mix back to a simmer. Allow to cook until the potatoes become tender.
- Candy the turnips. Melt butter over high heat and stir in the sugar. Bring this mix to a boil to create a caramel. Add in the turnips. Brown them evenly over medium heat, stirring as necessary to prevent burning. Add in the orange juice and bring to a boil. Stir occasionally and cook for a couple minutes until the turnips begin to soften. Add in the brussel Sprouts and season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat.
- When the stew is cooked, the sauce is relatively thick, the meat and vegetables are tender, season with salt and pepper. Then fold in the turnips and brussels. Serve with a hearty breads or popovers.
Bleu Cheese Mousse tart with Port Poached Pear
Ingredients
- For tart shell:
- 1 Cup Flour
- 1/2 Cup Chilled Butter
- 1 large Egg yolk
- 1 Tbsp Sugar
- 2 Tbsp Cold Water
- 1/2 tsp Salt
- For Blue Cheese Mousse
- 1/2 Lb Soft Blue Cheese
- 1/2 Lb Cream Cheese
- 1/4 Cup Honey
- 1 Tbsp Sour Cream
- For Poached Pear:
- 2 to 3 Medium Fresh Pears
- 1 Bottle Port Wine
- 1 Cup Sugar
- 2 Each Cinnamon Sticks
- 1 Each Fresh Orange
- 2 Tbsp Sliced Fresh Ginger
- 1 Each Vanilla Bean, split
Instructions
- Make the tart shells: Chop the butter into pea sized pieces. Mix the dry ingredients in a bowl. Then mix the butter in with the flour mix until it begins to form a dough. Add in the water and egg yolk. Continue kneading until a solid dough forms. Allow to rest for at least 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Then, roll out and place the dough into miniature rounds. Place in tart baking pans. You can do minis or a large. For our purposes, we prefer mini. Poke the bottoms of the shells with a fork. Bake the shells for about 20 minutes until golden brown. You may want to blind bake by lining the shells with foil and weighing that down with dry beans or rice. When baked, remove from oven and allow to completely cool.
- Poach the pears: Peel and core the pears. Cut them in half for the poaching. Place all ingredients except pears into a pot and bring to a boil. Allow the sugar to completely melt. Then, place the pears in the liquid and bring to a simmer. Allow the fruit to soften, yet maintain a bit of a crunch. Check after about 15 minutes. They should be done. Give a little more time if necessary. Remove the cooked pears from the liquid. Then, continue cooking the liquid down until it becomes a thick syrup. You will drizzle this on the final tart.
- make the Mousse: Puree the bleu cheese until smooth, with few chunks. This can be done in a food processor or mixing bowl. Whip the cream cheese in a stand mixer and fold in the remaining ingredients. It should be fluffy. Be careful not to overwhip or it will become too loose.
- Assemble: Cut the pears into appropriate size for the tarts. Pipe the mousse into the shells using a pastry bar with or without a tip. Top with the poached pears and drizzle or brush on the port syrup. Serve immediately or refrigerate for later use.