A Farewell to Summer

Doesn’t that sound almost magical? Anytime we bid farewell to summer or anything else to that matter, it evokes days long when people actually wrote letters. In a world long gone, people would send correspondence simply to let people know what they were up to. You know, that crap that people put on social media 100 times a day. But, it was very different then. Language and punctuation were usually correct. And, people didn’t send pictures or descriptions of the chalupa they had for lunch. Think of the letters sent between service members and their loved ones during the civil war. That kind of eloquence may be gone. But, we can still enjoy the eloquent, timeless, beauty of our world as the seasons change. And, that’s what we celebrate today: a farewell to summer and welcome to autumn on this, the autumnal equinox.

Equinox is a descriptor of the Earth’s tilt in relation to the sun. At solstice, either the north or south pole represent the closest point to the sun. They occur in December and June respectively. Equinoxes are when the equator faces the sun. While solstices represent longer periods of light vs dark in their respective hemispheres, Equinoxes give us relatively equal periods of day and night. The September equinox (today) is the beginning of autumn in the northern hemisphere; but, the start of spring south of the equator. It’s a good time to take stock of things as the weather and days are relatively moderate around the globe. Depending where you are, you don’t have the sweltering heat of summer, nor the brumal days of winter. A lack of extremes is a good thing to celebrate.

Autumn’s dawn bids A Farewell to Summer

Here in the North, this day brings accusations of negativity, as the days are half empty. Yet, reality vindicates our perception. Instead of blossoms popping, and, life bustling, leaves let go, blanketing the barren ground in shades of brown, orange, and red. These are not the tones of optimism. They represent what we experience in our own lives. Like the plant life all around us, our own bodies begin to slow, change, and withdraw. Some of us shed hair like the trees shed leaves. At the very least, shades of former youth take on muted colors. Unlike nature, though, our youth doesn’t re-appear in a few months. The cycle of seasons is a vignette we repeat year after year to remind us of where we are headed.

Like a student of history, embracing this moment is a learning experience. Recognizing repeating patterns opens the mind to possibilities, and understanding. Every year, around this time, we witness similar events. Temperatures ebb and flow from cold beer to warm cider. We pack up light colors and fabrics for heavier layers and darker pigments. But, we’re still active. Brisk walks invigorate when it’s in the upper 50’s and lower 60’s F (12 to 18 C). WE no longer need summer coolers. The air, itself, does this for us. The halcyon days of summer give way to the realities of work, school, and preparation for the coming coldness. No more playing in the sand and surf. Life is here. It’s our turn to experience the mundane and do what needs to be done.

Same world, different look

The seasons bring dramatic or subtle changes depending on where you are. For those of us in temperate zones, change is dramatic. It’s a phenomenon to embrace. Every couple months, we get a makeover. Today is a nice combination of colors and textures here in the Northeast USA. Lawns still have most of their green. Threes are fully developed. But, patches of varying colors appear, like salt and pepper hair, shades of yellow, brown, orange, and varying degrees of red pop into the green canopy. Once vibrant flowers drop off or fade to muted tones. Where vibrant colors once boasted like juvenile peacocks, more realistic umbers expose the world, like a model without her makeup and airbrushing. Autumn reveals the natural beauty underneath.

Some complain about these changes. But, to look at the same old same old everyday of the year becomes monotonous. As much as we desire consistency, we also relish change. Check your wardrobe. Your work-clothes are probably all very similar. But, personal attire varies in cut, shape, flare, and functionality. Even if all your clothes are shades of black, they still have different features, like colors, hems, and lines. You pay attention to what you wear. But, do you observe the world around you. Right now is a perfect time to do so. Things are changing rapidly.Pay attention before you’re covered in piles of leaves. See the change. Embrace the change. Be the change.

A farewell to summer brings new flavors

Aside from the dreaded PSL, which doesn’t actually have any pumpkin in it, fall offers a variety of foods. There is a reason why we have events like “fall flavors festivals”. And, our calendar and holidays revolve around the autumn harvest. As temperatures drop, farmers need to pick whatever is still growing. Come winter, the only local produce you will get is grown indoors. But, before modern heating, people had to pick whatever they could and preserve it for the long winter. We’re spoiled by international trade, allowing us to get pretty much any food items we want year round. Although, the current political climate is making that harder.

Supporting local business is always a good idea. Look for local products when you shop, or, better yet, go to a local farmer’s market, so the money you spend goes directly to the farmer or artisan. In many cases, products at a farmer’s market may be more expensive than in big box stores. That’s because the merchants have to pay a fee to set up a stand, in addition to labor, transportation, and other costs. But, just like the fruits of summer and spring items like fiddleheads, getting fresh fall flavors is a limited time treat. In autumn, we get the best apples, pears, cranberries, pomegranates, Hardy squashes, root vegetables, potatoes, kale Brussel sprouts, and more. It’s not the delicate berries and salad makings of the summer. These are sturdy products to get you through the months of colder temperatures.

But, I don’t like Brussel Sprouts

Boo hoo! That’s because you never had them cooked properly. Cruciferous vegetables like Cabbage, Brussels, Broccoli, and cauliflower are in season in temperate areas. A lot of people don’t care for these vegetables (except, maybe, broccoli) because they have a bitter edge, and may be harder to digest. But, when properly cooked, and with a gradual acclimation, they are quite delicious. Are you going to call millions of Irish and Irish sympathizers crazy when they sit down to a corned beef and cabbage meal? That could be dangerous, especially on St Paddy’s day. And, if you add a little sweetener like honey or some seasonally appropriate maple syrup, you’re onto something wonderful.

Admittedly, Fall flavors are a bit heavy. But, that’s a good thing in the temperate zone. Cooking and consuming hardy meals is like reliving the migration of Europeans to “the new world”. The pilgrims of New England learned of local agriculture and hunting and gathering from the natives to this land. Future generations turned out to be selfish A-holes who wiped out entire populations. But, that’s a tale for another day (like Columbus day). Genocide aside, the incoming Europeans learned the importance of subsistence farming and an appreciation for the land and environment they now occupied. And, hardy autumn vegetables that could be preserved through the winter were staples of their survival in a harsh, unforgiving landscape.

Moral of the story: Eat your brussel sprouts!

A farewell to summer brings a colorful diet

Some people don’t think of muted fall colors as attractive. Sure, there aren’t as many rainbow colors. But, there are shades rainbows don’t show. Besides, life is not all Sunshine, lollipops, and rainbows. If you don’t recognize the beauty in fall colors, chances are, you don’t know there’s a b in dumb. IN fall vegetables, we find a wide variety of different color tones. Instead of vibrant reds, greens, and yellows, the tones tend to be muted. But, extremely varied. kale is a dark green. Sweet potatoes and pumpkins highlight various shades of orange. Spaghetti squash is an eye catching yellow. Potatoes bring a variety of browns, whites, beige, gold, reds, and purples.

So, let’s not be so quick to criticize. And, be sure to take into account the health benefits of a variety of fall veggies. Orange veggies provide betacarotene, vitamin A and C, boosting immunity as we head into Cold and flu season. Deep colored veggies like beets have anti-inflammatory properties. many squashes and root vegetables support heart health and provide potassium and sodium regulation to lower blood pressure. And, most have high fiber that helps improve digestion, and even promote weight loss (of course, not when we overeat and slather things with butter). Even maple syrup is good for you. So, don’t think of a farewell to summer as a bad thing. It could actually do you some good.

Celebrate the change

How many times have you heard the saying: change is good? Yet, people complain when summer is in the rearview. This is why warmer places like Florida and Southern California attract so many people. They want the same old same old. Granted, Summer does not suck. But, walking outside to another perfect day over and over again becomes monotonous. Why do you think the vacation industry is so robust. People need change. The beauty of living in a temperate zone is the constant change. We go from sub zero temperatures to over 100 degrees. You can take pictures of the same spot throughout the year and have a vastly different image. And, fall brings dramatic transitions with the natural explosion of color from foliage to the ever-changing dinner table.

The phrase: “Be the change you wish to see in the world” is often credited to Mahatma Ghandi (even though he said it differently). It captures what we experience in Fall in New England (and similar climes). It helps us visualize possibilities: see the change… be the change ( or as Chevy Chase said in Caddyshack: see the ball. Be the ball). Our autumnal experience is a microcosm of the constant change in an ever-expanding universe. It’s one step on our way to enlightenment. If we embrace the change, we better prepare ourselves for a greater understanding of what it is to be one with everything (and I’m not talking about hot dogs here). So, today, share of ourselves with nature and appreciate the bounty and variety autumn brings us as we bid farewell to summer.

It’s not all sunshine lollipops, and rainbows. Yes, it’s so much more.

So, here are some recipes to help celebrate the autumnal equinox:

Pistacchio crusted Sea Bass Over Cauliflower Puree with Golden beet Ginger Sauce

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 20 minutes mins

Cook Time 35 minutes mins

Course Main Course

Cuisine American

Servings 4 People

Ingredients

  

• 4 each 6 oz. Sea Bass portions (preferably center cut)
• 1 Tbsp dijon mustard
• 1 cup Chopped Pistacchios
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh marjoram
• Salt and Pepper to taste
• Avocado oil for cooking
• For Cauliflower Puree:
• 2 cups Fresh cauliflower florets
• 2 cups Peeled yukon gold or white creamer potatoes
• 1/4 cup unsalted butter
• Salt and Pepper to taste (use white pepper if available)
• For Sauce:
• Avocado oil for cooking
• 1 Cup Peeled and chopped fresh golden beets
• 2 Tbsp Chopped fresh shallot
• 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Ginger
• 1 small Lemongrass stem cut in 3 inch lengths
• 2 each cardamom pods
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1 cup orange juice
• Juice of 1 small lime
• 8 cups water
• Salt and Pepper to taste
• Asparagus, Edamame, or Fava Beans for service
• Micro Greens and Lime for garnish

Instructions

 

• Make the sauce: Heat Avocado oil in a heavy gauge pot. Saute the shallots, ginger, lemongrass, and cardamom. Add in the beets and stir. Allow the flavors to blend over medium heat for a couple minutes. Then add the sugar and stir until it is melted in. Add the rest of the ingredients (except salt and pepper) and bring to a boil. Taper temperature back to a simmer and allow the beets to cook at least 20 minutes. They should be soft and falling apart. Add more liquid and continue cooking if they aren't soft enough.
• When the liquid is cooked down to barely covering the beets. And, the beets are soft enough to puree, remove the cardamom and lemongrass. Puree the Beets until a silky smooth sauce is created. Add a little orange juice if it is too thick. Season and set aside the sauce.
• make the Cauliflower puree. Boil the potatoes in salted water. At the same time, toss the cauliflower in a little oil, salt, and white pepper. Roast at 350 degrees until it becomes soft (about 10 to 15 minutes). Try not to get too much color. But, make sure it is relatively dry. Strain the potatoes well. Puree the cauliflower in a food processor until smooth. Push the potatoes through a strainer or food mill and add to the food processor. add in butter, salt, and pepper. Puree everything together until smooth. Don't let the potatoes spend too much time in the processor or they will become gummy. Set aside and keep warm for service.
• Prepare the fish: Fold the chopped nuts and herbs together. This can be done in a food processor or by hand. Be careful using a food processor, as the mixture can become too moist and clumpy. You want it to be dry enough to stick to your fish. Using the back of a teaspoon spread a very thin skim coat of dijon mustard on the fish. It should be just enough to hold the coating, not to make its own crust. Dip the fish fillets into the nut mix just to coat the top side evenly.
• Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium high heat. When it is just below the smoking point, add in the fish. Cook about 3 to 5 minutes per side. You want the Nut crust to be slightly browned. But, allow the green colors to shine through. It may take more time to cook the fish depending on the thickness of the fillets. If you want, you can sear the fish ahead of time. Leave it raw in the middle, and, finish it in a 350 degree oven. You want an internal temperature of 155 degrees. Again, cooking time depends on the thickness of the fish.
• Cook the vegetables. Heat oil in a saute pan over high heat. Add in the green vegetable of your choice. Season with salt and pepper, toss until just cooked through (about 30 seconds to 1 minute).
• Plate the dish: Make a bed of the cauliflower puree in the middle of the plate. Top with the fish. Either drizzle the sauce over the top or pool it around the puree. Or you can do a little of both. Garnish the plate with the vegetables, some microgreens, and citrus is desired.

Notes

We use Sea bass here. But, you can substitute other fish. halibut, grouper, or tile fish are all good substitutes of similar quality. You can also go more delicate with sole or turbot.

When making the potato cauliflower puree, be careful with the potato. It will get pasty in the food processor. You also want the cauliflower to be relatively dry. But, not so dry that it doesn’t puree smoothly. There needs to be enough moisture that it breaks down smoothly. One method to achieve this is to actually boil or steam it first, then pop it in the oven to dry it out. This will prevent it from becoming stringy in the pureeing process.

The sauce can be served as a soup as well. Adjust the consistency to your taste.

When it comes to the vegetables, see what is seasonal. I like a pop of green to really bring the plate to life. Asparagus, Broccolini, Fava beans, edamame, sugar snap peas, English peas all work well. The cooking process needs to be quick though. You want to preserve the color. So, cook al dente. Just get them in and out of the heat quick.

Keyword Cauliflower Puree, Ginger Sauce, Golden Beet, Pistacchio, Sea Bass

Sweet Potato Latkes topped with Pan seared Duck Breast and Apple relish

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 20 minutes mins

Cook Time 20 minutes mins

Course Appetizer

Cuisine American, French, Jewish, New England

Servings 24 Mini Latkes

Ingredients

  

• 1 Lb Peeled Sweet Potato
• 1/2 Lb Peeled Yukon Gold Potato
• 2 Large Eggs
• 1/4 Cup AP Flour
• 1/4 Cup Sour Cream
• 1/4 Cup Chopped Fresh Scallion or Chives
• 1 Tbsp Maple Syrup, plus more for the duck breast
• Salt and Pepper to taste
• 1 Large Boneless Duck Breast
• 1 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Thyme
• For the Relish:
• 1/2 cup Small Diced Sweet Onion
• 1 Cup Small Diced Fresh Apple
• Oil For Cooking
• 1 Tbsp Sugar in the raw
• 1 Oz Brandy or whiskey
• 1 Tbsp Apple Cider Vinegar
• 1 Oz Dried Cranberries

Instructions

 

• Score the Fat on the duck breast by making slits 1/2 inch apart in one direction, Then, similar cuts in the opposite direction (East to west, and north to south. This will result in a diamond pattern in the skin. Rub the breast with salt, pepper, maple, and Thyme. Set aside.
• Make the Relish: Heat oil in a saute pan over medium high heat. Add the onions. Saute until translucent. Add in the apples and allow them to caramelize a bit. Add the sugar and allow it to melt. Then add the brandy and burn off the alcohol. Add the vinegar and cranberries. Cook down the liquid until it becomes more of a glaze. Set aside.
• Whisk the eggs, then add the sour cream, flour, and seasonings for the latkes. Shred sweet and gold potatoes into the bowl with the Sour cream, etc. Add in the scallions and mix everything together.
• Heat 2 pans over medium high heat. Sear the duck breast in one. Cook it until the fat is rendered down and the skin takes on a golden brown hue. Flip to the other side and continue cooking until it reaches a nice medium rare (about 125 degrees. Or, you can finish it in an oven if you don't want to watch the pan that closely. It should take about 10 minutes to cook through depending on the thickness of the breast. Remove from the heat and let it rest about 5 to 10 minutes.
• In the other pan, Heat a layer of oil or butter. Scoop or spoon in the latke mixture in quarter to half dollar sized rounds. Cook until golden brown on each side. Press down to make sure they are cooking through. It should take about 2 to 3 minutes per side. When done, keep them warm in a holding oven. Or, you can reheat them when it is time to serve.
• Cut the breast down the middle lengthwise. Then make thin slices. Put a slice on top of each latke. Then top with Apple relish and serve.

Keyword Apple Relish, Hors d’ouevres, latkes, Pan seared Duck Breast, sweet potato

Rumbled Thumps

cheffd

A slight twist on a traditional scottish Potato, turnip, and Kale cake

Print Recipe

Prep Time 20 minutes mins

Cook Time 45 minutes mins

Course Side Dish

Cuisine Scottish

Servings 4 people

Ingredients

  

• 1.5 lb russet potatoes, boiled and mashed
• 1 lb turnip, peeled and mashed
• 1/2 cup unsalted butter
• 1/2 lb julienne kale or cabbage (or both)
• 1/4 cup Diced Scallion
• 1/2 cup cheddar cheese, shredded
• Kosher or sea salt and ground black pepper

Instructions

 

• Preheat oven to 350 degrees
• Boil the potatoes and turnips in separate pans of salted water. Drain, mash, and fold together
• Melt the butter. Fold 1/2 of the butter into the potato mix. Use the other half to saute the kale or cabbage until tender.
• After sauteing the kale or cabbage, fold it, 1/2 the cheese, and scallions into the potato mixture.
• Spray a casserole or baking dish with pan spray. Spread the potato mix in an even layer. Then top with cheese. Cover with foil
• Bake the covered dish for 30 minutes, then remove the top and bake another 5 minutes to brown the top.
• Serve the Rumbled Thumps hot.

Notes

Rumbled thumps are the Scottish interpretation of an Irish colcannon. Both are mashed potatoes with cabbage or kale, but the Scottish twist is to bake it with cheese to create a crust. It demonstrates typical Celtic one-upsmanship. Ya’ think your better than me? AAAccchh!

Keyword cheddar, kale, potato, scottish, side dish, Thumbled rumps, turnip

White Chocolate Apple and Beetroot Ice Cream

cheffd

Print Recipe

Prep Time 35 minutes mins

Cook Time 35 minutes mins

Freezing time 2 hours hrs

Course Dessert

Cuisine American, French, Italian

Equipment

• Ice cream machine

Ingredients

  

• 8 oz Whole fresh beetroot
• 1 Cup Peeled and Cored apple, cut into 1/4 inch dice
• 2 Tbsp Orange zest
• 1 Cup Orange juice
• 1 Cup Chopped White chocolate
• 4 Cups heavy Cream
• 4 Large Egg Yolks
• 1 Cup Sugar
• 1/4 tsp Kosher or sea salt
• 1 to 3 cups Water to boil the beats
• Olive oil to saute the apples

Instructions

 

• Cut the beets into 1 to 2 inch chunks. Put in a pot with orange juice and water. Boil until soft. and most of the liquid has evaporated. If they aren't soft enough, add more water and continue cooking. But, in the end, you want just a coating of liquid.
• Puree the beets until smooth. Refrigerate until needed.
• Heat a little oil in a saute pan over medium high heat. Saute the apples until lightly browned and softened, but not mushy. Refrigerate until needed.
• Heat cream, white chocolate and sugar in a heavy pot over medium heat until it comes to a simmer. Whisk to melt the chocolate and sugar. Put the eggs in a bowl. Whisk in a couple tablespoons of the hot cream to temper the eggs. Then slowly add in the rest, whisking continuously. Return to the pot over low heat and continue stirring until it slightly thickens. Be careful not to "scramble" the eggs. Transfer it back to a mixing bowl and set that bowl into an ice bath. Whisk it until it cools completely.
• Whisk in the beets and orange zest. Then fold in the Apples.
• Transfer the ingredients to your prepared ice cream machine. Then follow manufacturer's instructions. You will see it thicken in the bowl. Depending on the machine, you may be able to serve right from the machine, or it may require additional time in the freezer.

Keyword apple, Beetroot, Custard, Frozen, Ice Cream, Sweet, White Chocolate