Burn it down to make the ashes
Here we go again. Today is Mardi Gras AKA Fat Tuesday, Shrove Tuesday, or ash Wednesday Eve. The name Shrove Tuesday comes from the word to shrive or purify oneself. The original concept was: use up all the eggs, milk, and fat you have, since they are forbidden during lent. Yeah, a lot has changed since then. But, the concept of pigging out and indulging before giving up things is alive and well (even if the giving up things doesn’t always take). But, what does this have to do with ashes? Well, the ashes come from somewhere. Why not Burn it down to make the ashes?
Ash Wednesday is the beginning of the Lent season: 40 days until Easter. The ashes are made from the dried palms from the previous year’s palm Sunday. A priest smears ashes in the shape of the cross on your forehead to signify penitence and mourning for all the bad deeds from the past. So, people have turned Mardi Gras into a celebration of debauchery in anticipation of the “cleansing” of lent. It’s a contrived reason for getting your sin on. So, instead of burning palms, shouldn’t the thing burned be something undesirable? Burn off those sins and calories?
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How did we get here?
A forgotten fact: Mardi Gras did not originate in New Orleans. Purportedly it was a French Canadian explorer who brought the celebration to America in 1699, in an encampment 60 miles from New Orleans. The first organized annual celebrations were in Mobile Alabama. And, then the history of celebration in New Orleans was on and off until the mid 1800’s. And, even then, there were restrictions and anti-mask mandates. The celebration we know developed over the decades via secret societies celebrating the pleasures of the flesh and debauchery. They incorporated rituals and symbolism from Pagan and Roman Catholic traditions.
Mardi Gras is actually part of a larger festival: Carnival. This name derives from the Latin carnelevarium, Meaning to shun meat (Latin: Carno=meat. levare=put away). Before the Roman Catholic Church developed, worshipers of the Sun God celebrated King Saturnalia in December and Lupercalia in February. Lupercalia was a fertility festival celebrating Februtis (goddess of Purification, where the name February comes from). Mardi Gras incorporates these two into their celebration with King Rex in place of Saturnalia, and the indulgence in sin followed by the Lenten purification.
The name King Rex refers to Russian Grand Duke Alexis Romanoff, who visited New Orleans in 1872, during the parade. The King cake and crowning of the King of Carnival and Mardi Gras remain to this day.
Burn it down to make the ashes from a flambeaux
While the parades, floats, and costumes are hallmarks of Mardi Gras, the Flambeaux is just as, if not more, important as a symbol of purification. A Flambeau is a Flame carried on a pole. I n the early days of the New Orleans Mardi gras they were necessary to light the night time parade. But, now they are part of the show. And, they will come in handy at the end of the parade for the burning of King Rex.
Carnival and Mardi Gras both crown a king. The parade showcases the king casting blessings on the good people of the city. But, the king himself must atone for his own sins as well as those of his people. In France they call him, Mr Carnival:
Monsieur Carnaval… is responsible for all the wrongdoing people do throughout the year. At Carnival time in France, Monsieur Carnaval is judged for his behavior throughout the preceding year. Usually he’s found guilty and an effigy of him is burned at the Carnival.
Then, there’s something about eating garlic soup. And some sing the song Adiu paure Carnaval.
The important thing is that the following year, a new King Rex rises (like a Phoenix) from the ashes of the old one.
Burn it down to make the ashes Smolder with flavor
I remember growing up with the mantra: to waste is a sin. So, if we burn something to create the fire to cook with, there is no waste. whether it’s King Rex, Palms, or a cherry tree used to make the Ash Wednesday ashes, let’s harness it for some smoked food for that Fat Tuesday Dinner. Most people think of Jambalaya when you say Mardi Gras. But, there is so much more to the day than a simple dish from New Orleans. New Orleans is home to myriad food choices. While the rice dishes and stews get the most press, Southern smoked food is just as good. And, we can even add in some flavors from outside of New Orleans since Mardi gras didn’t originate there.
Andouille Sausage is a great smoked and fiery hot place to start. Then there are your meats and seafood. But, don’t shy away from vegetables. How about Eggplant, squash, peppers, and tomatoes? You can smoke just about anything. And, the result is pure comfort food.
Not every has a smoker, though. No need to worry. You can create smoke in your own oven, on a stove top, or in a grille. Just soak some wood chips or tea leaves in a little water. Put them in a flat pan. Place a rack over the chips. The, put your food on the rack. Cover the food. Start at a high enough heat to get some smoke going. Then, taper heat back, and, cook low and slow.
Today’s Menu:
Tea Smoked Creole Ratatouille Served with Cajun Spiced Pork Loin and Marjoram Scented Creamy Goat Cheese Grits
You could forego the Pork loin for a vegetarian meal. And, you can always substitute vegan versions of cream, cheese, and butter in the grits for a vegan meal.
The ratatouille recipe uses a presentation like the one in the Pixar movie of the same name. But, you can cube the vegetables for a more traditional rustic presentation. We add some creole seasonings and Okra to make it New Orleans. And, we smoke the vegetables lightly to go give a surprising flavor. We are using tea here. But, you could use wood chips as well. And, if you have a smoker, feel free to use that. I like the delicate smoke of the tea. especially when working with less hardy ingredients like vegetables and seafood. We don’t have to Burn it down to make the ashes
The pork loin is simple: Rub, sear, finish in the oven. But, we add a spicy Chili vinaigrette to give extra moisture, texture, and flavor. You can substitute any other meat, seafood, or a nice Chayote squash or Artichoke would make a great vegan alternative. You could even use a meat substitute (although, we prefer to avoid processed foods, but we can make some exceptions).
The grits are a simple dish. We just add marjoram and goat cheese as a bit of a surprise twist. The marjoram really plays nicely with the ratatouille. They don’t cook any faster than traditional grits. But, once you taste these, you’ll swear they are magic grits.
For more on mardi Gras and other recipes, check out our archives.
Tea Smoked Creole Ratatouille
Ingredients
- 8 Oz Eggplant
- 8 oz Zucchini
- 8 oz Summer Squash
- 4 Medium Plum Tomatoes
- 2 oz Okra
- 1 cup Sweet onion diced
- 1 Cup Red Bell Pepper Diced
- 2 small hot chili peppers
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh Oregano (or 1/2 tsp dry)
- 2 Cup Crushed Tomato
- 1/4 Cup Red Wine
- 1 tsp Cajun Seasoning
- 1/4 Cup Chiffonade (Julienne) Fresh Basil
- olive oil for cooking
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- 1/4 Cup Tea Leaves
Instructions
- Make a Sauce: Heat some olive oil in a heavy pot. Saute the onion and garlic until translucent. Add in 1/2 the peppers, chili, And Cajun Seasoning. Stir well. Then add the Wine. Cook down until the wine becomes a coating. Then add the okra and crushed tomato. Cook over low heat for about 45 minutes to an hour. Add a little water if it gets too thick. Fold in the rest of the peppers and season the sauce.
- preheat oven to 400
- Place tea leaves in a baking dish with a rack (A roasting pan like one used for roasting a turkey will work). Put this in the oven until the tea begins to smoke.
- Slice the eggplant, Tomato, Zucchini, and Summer Squash into rounds. Spray the rack in the roasting pan with pan spray. Spread out the vegetables on the rack. Then cover the pan (use a cover if you have one or aluminum foil). Cook for 5 to 10 minutes until the smoke flavor permeates the vegetables. But, keep them relatively firm.
- Toss the basil in olive oil with salt and pepper
- Spray a Deep sided round casserole dish with pan spray. Put most of the sauce in the dish (I like to save a little to serve on the side if anybody wants extra). Arrange the vegetables atop the sauce in concentric circles, alternating colors. Brush with the basil and oil. Bake in the oven for about 5 to 10 minutes.
- Serve hot with Cheesy Grits or Rice. You can use this as a side dish or the main course.
Notes
Cajun Spiced Pork Loin
Equipment
- Cast Iron Skillet
Ingredients
- 2 Lb Boneless Pork loin (tenderloin or sirloin)
- 1/4 Cup Cajun Seasoning (homemade is best. But, a quality blend works too)
- 1/4 Cup Onion
- 1 Tbsp Fresh diced Chili
- 1/2 tsp Fresh Garlic
- 1/2 Cup Cider or red wine Vinegar
- 1/2 Cup Olive Oil, plus extra for cooking
- 1 tsp Dijon Vinegar
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- 1 Bunch Scallion
Instructions
- Rub the pork loin with cajun Seasoning evenly. Put in the fridge for at least an hour or 2 for the flavor to penetrate. You can even leave overnight.
- Make a Chili Vinaigrette: Put onion, chili, garlic, Vinegar, dijon, salt, and pepper in a blender. Turn on the blender and puree. drizzle in the oil until an emulsified dressing forms.
- Preheat oven to 400. And, Spray a baking pan with pan spray.
- Heat a heavy cast iron skillet over high heat for about 5 minutes. It should be smoking hot. Place the pork loin in the pan. Sear each side until they are lightly blackened. Transfer the meat to the sprayed baking pan and finish cooking in the oven. Cook time will vary depending on the thickness of the meat. If you have pork tenderloin, it should take 5 to 10 minutes to finish. A full sized pork loin could take 20 minutes. You want to cook to an internal temperature of 145 degrees.
- Allow the meat to rest 5 to 10 minutes after cooking before you slice it. If it doesn't rest enough, all the juices will run out and the meat will be dry and tough. Slice thin. Serve it with the chili dressing drizzled on top.
Marjoram Scented Creamy Goat Cheese Grits
Ingredients
- 4 Cups heavy Cream May substitute light cream or milk for a lighter dish.
- 1 Cup Grits (Or fine corn meal or polenta)
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh Garlic
- 1/2 cup Crumbled Coat Cheese
- 1 Cup Shredded Cheddar Cheese
- 1/4 Cup Unsalted Butter
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- 2 Tbsp Chopped Fresh Marjoram
- 1/4 Cup Chopped Fresh Scallion
Instructions
- Bring Cream and garlic to a simmer in a heavy pot. Stir in the grits until smooth. Turn heat down to medium low. Stir frequently and continue cooking for about 20 minutes until thick, but still pliable. Fold in the remaining ingredients and stir until the cheese and butter are well melted. Serve hot.