Erin Go… Drink a Pint!
Slainte! It’s that time again. The Middle of March. Not quite the equinox. But, the Irish are always a bit early (except when they’re late). It’s time to celebrate the most famous Italian Irishman: St Patrick. And, how do we celebrate? By drinking. The Irish have a reputation for being the heaviest drinkers in the world. But, surprisingly, They are actually only number 6. Czechia is number one. Germany is fourth. In fact, most of the top 10 list are Eastern block nations. With the current situation between Russia and Ukraine, that is not surprising. You never know when Vlad may want to invade. So, if the Irish want to regain that throne, they’d best start catching up. So, Erin Go… Drink a Pint! It’s St Patty’s day!
While the Irish make the top 10 list of drinkers. Their culinary reputation isn’t winning a lot of acclaim. To most people, Irish food means corned beef and cabbage, bangers and mash, and potatoes, lots of potatoes. But, as we pointed out last year, there is a lot more on the emerald Isle than meets the eye. They are a seafood mecca. In fact, they have some of the toughest fishermen on the planet. Did you see them stand up to Putin when he decided to practice “war games” in their fishing areas? So, to celebrate the Emerald Isle, let’s do a little more than put some green food coloring in beer. Let’s celebrate the diversity of one of the most storied countries.
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The Emerald Isle is more than Erin Go… Drink a Pint!
Sure, you will find stereotypical macho beer and whiskey drinking, loudmouthed stereotypes of Irish soccer hooligans. But, most of those are right here in the US, especially in Bahstan… Coming back to reality: let’s face it, being a stereotype takes a lot of work. And, we all know the Irish are lazy bums (JK). Just because you have roots in, or come from, the Emerald Isle doesn’t mean you act or think in one way. As in every modern culture, the Irish range from uneducated dolts to Rhodes scholars, just like here. And, so does their palate. While pubs are unavoidable as social gathering places, there are more refined establishments. Not everything is rustic.
There are multiple Michelin star awarded restaurants in Ireland (and, Irish chefs of note around the world). what sets Irish cuisine apart from the rest of the world is the humility. Chef Oliver Dunne is a perfect example of that. He asked that his Michelin star be revoked, because he didn’t want his diners to think his establishments were too fru fru. He didn’t want people to feel they had to dress up in tux and tails. His restaurants are expensive. But, he wants you to relax and enjoy life. And, that is the general feel you get from Irish food and friends alike. You can be fancy; just don’t be stuffy. You can have your foie gras and Champagne. But, don’t pretend it’s better than fish and chips. Both can be the best thing you’ve ever had. It just depends on the context.
Where did this Corned beef thing come from?
For our menu today, we want to bring the common dish to a more elegant presentation. True Irish cuisine celebrates local and fresh. In America, we often forget that, since the 3 things that come to mind when someone says “Irish” are corned beef, cabbage, and potatoes. And, Corned beef isn’t even a thing in Ireland.
The history of Irish corned beef is long and complex. Cows were almost sacred in Ireland. They were mainly used for labor and dairy products. You had to be wealthy to own a cow. Then, the British invaded. Their cuisine was heavily beef based. So, along with potatoes, they brought a taste for cattle. But, beef was expensive (and Ireland was a nation of poorer people), so most Irish cattle ended up on English plates. It needed to be preserved. And, the Irish had access to higher quality salt at a lower price (due to their taxation structure). So, the meat was salted. The salt was the size of corn kernels. Thus, the name “corned” beef.
But, the story gets a little weird here. In the 1840’s the great Potato Blight led to the death of over a million Irish, and a mass migration to America. Once in America, they bought most of their meat from kosher butchers, who corned their beef in the manner we are used to today. So, the corned beef we associate with St patty’s day is actually Jewish Corned beef, not Irish.
The displaced Irish spent a lot on the beef. So, they filled their plates with the cheapest vegetables they could find: the beloved potato and the much maligned cabbage. So, far from representing Ireland, CB and C represents a trying time for a group of immigrants.
The lowly, yet esteemed Spud
Potatoes have been an integral part of Ireland since Sir Walter Raleigh introduced them in 1589. Before that, the Irish diet weighed heavily on grains like oats, wheat, and Barley. And, all of those are still in play today. We can thank Columbus and explorers of the Americas for the proliferation of the potato, though. They originated in the Andes mountains of South America over 8000 years ago. After European exploration, they found their way to the “old world” and have been a staple of European cuisine ever since. And, why not? They are filling and comforting. Beyond the heavy carb load, they pack a lot of minerals, vitamins, anti-oxidants, and fiber. Besides contributing to weight gain, they are actually good for your heart, cholesterol, and blood sugar. Of course, when you fry them in cholesterol heavy oil or smother them in Sour cream and butter…
So, even though they get a bad rap, Potatoes, in moderation, can be a flavorful, healthy part of a meal. We now have thousands of varieties to choose from (although, you will only find a couple hundred in the mass market).
Then there are sweet potatoes. People tend to claim sweet potatoes are healthier. But, that is actually misleading. They are both root vegetables from different plant families (potatoes are nightshade vegetables, sweet potatoes are from the morning glory family). Beside that they have similar nutrient levels. Sweet potatoes, though, have fewer calories and more vitamin A and beta carotene. Yet, regular potatoes have more potassium and magnesium. So, either is a good choice. Why not mix both for a more colorful, delicious, and nutritious meal?
Erin Go… Drink a Pint, seaside.
So, we now know the corned beef and cabbage thing is not really Irish. But, what are we going to do about it? You can’t get away from it in the USA. Well, we are going to change that today. The traditional celebration is more cultural than based on the religious tenets of the man known as St Patrick. And, it’s more about Irish Americans than the inhabitants of the Green Isle. Not that there’s anything wrong with that. Let’s strive to capture more of Ireland’s diversity from religion to pub brawls. After all, she is also known as the “Land of Saints and Scholars”.
From James Joyce to St Patrick himself, the country has some great brain power. And, we all know that fish is brain food (as Marge Simpson says: probably from all the dolphins that end up in the tuna). And, there is a lot more variety in the world of seafood than in the world of meat. So, it makes sense that we celebrate the Island with Seafood (See last year’s menu here). Ireland is famous for everything from oysters to salmon. Unfortunately, they export much of it. There is a push to get Irish people to eat more fish. Pork and chicken are the most popular proteins. But, switching to fish is a healthier alternative with delicious results. And, it will honor the bravery of those fishermen who stood up to Putin.
A little upscale comfort food
Common lore says St Patrick was held as a slave in Ireland in the 5th century (But, there is new research suggesting he may have actually been trading slaves). Regardless, when he left the island, he had a religious awakening that drove him to spend 15 years training and becoming ordained as a Christian Missionary. At the time, there were few Christians in Ireland. He returned to nurture the existing ones and recruit new Christians from the pagan Celts. He had a reverence and respect for the people of Ireland, though. So, the Christianity he taught incorporated their Celtic traditions. To the Romans and Brits, the Irish were uncivilized. Patrick helped infuse the Christian normative civilization into this “barbaric” land. But, he didn’t try to change the nature of the people. And, that authenticity is still a hallmark of the Irish, who will say it as it is.
Today, we would like to honor Patrick and the Irish people by creating a menu that is true to its Irish roots, but infused with a more refined sensibility. When Elites poo poo Irish food, they see peasant food. Well, peasants have some of the best food. It just isn’t all dressed up. So, today, like Patrick uniting Celts with the “civilized Christian world”, or like a Christian putting on his Sunday best for Church, we are going to take the bounty of Ireland, and dress it up a bit. It’s still comfort food. But, it’s presented nicely. And, for all you “gourmets” out there, don’t think you’re above peasant food. Look at Cassoulet or Osso Bucco. Both are peasant comfort foods that you can only get in the finest restaurants these days.
Today’s Menu
So, what we are doing today is showcasing the bounty of Ireland. We start with fish, add grains, Fresh Herbs, vegetables, and the life saving potato. We just refine the preparation a bit, and make it pretty. So, here is our suggestion:
- Herbed haddock Filet baked in Phyllo with A curried Red Lentil Sauce
- Baby Cabbage Colcannon
- Roasted Romescu, Carrots, Brussel Sprouts
Of course, there are many other ways to go. But, this incorporates old and new in a nice package. Think of the fish as a fish and chips. Only, instead of batter fried, it is crusted with phyllo and baked. This makes a lighter and healthier option. The Sauce is pureed red lentils with curry. It sounds exotic. But, Curry has been popular in Ireland for quite some time now.
Colcannon is an Irish standby: Mashed potatoes with cabbage. We put our own spin on it. But, stick to the traditional preparation method.
For the vegetables, we represent the Irish flag: Romescu is a cross breed of cauliflower and Broccoli, so it has a greenish tint on a white base. The carrots are the orange. And, the Brussel Sprouts provide the green.
Herbed haddock Filet baked in Phyllo with A curried Red Lentil Sauce
Ingredients
- 4 Each 5 to 6 oz Haddock Fillets
- 1/2 Cup Chopped Fresh herbs: Parsley, Thyme, Dill, Chive
- 1/2 Cup Julienne Fresh Shallots
- 4 to 8 each sheets of Phyllo Dough
- Oil for cooking and brushing the Phyllo
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- For the Sauce:
- 1/4 Cup Diced Fresh Onion
- 1 tsp Chopped Fresh Ginger
- 1/2 tsp Chopped Fresh Garlic
- 1/2 Cup Red Lentils
- 1/4 Cup Fresh Diced Tomato
- 1 tsp Curry Powder
- 1 1/2 Cup Water or vegetable Stock
- Salt and Pepper to taste
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 350
- Saute Shallots in a little olive oil until translucent.
- Dip the fish fillets in herb mix. Sprinkle with Salt and Pepper. Heat a little olive oil in a Saute pan over high heat. Sear the Fish on one side to get a nice crust.
- Spread a phyllo sheet on a clean surface. If they are too big, cut in 1/2 to do 2 pieces of fish. Brush one sheet with oil. lay another sheet on top and brush again. Place a little of the shallot in the middle of the sheets. Put the fish on top of that. Then, fold the sides in to partially overlap the fish. Then, roll the Phyllo to encase the fish. Repeat with the rest of the fish and place on a sprayed sheet pan. Refrigerate until ready to cook.
- Make the Sauce: Saute the garlic, ginger, and onion in olive oil. Add the curry and lentil. Stir well to coat the lentils. Then add the tomatoes and stock or water. Cook until the lentils begin to break down. Transfer to a blender, Puree until smooth. Add salt and pepper. Add extra liquid if too thick. Check seasoning and adjust to taste.
- Bake the Fish at 350 until golden brown: about 15 to 20 minutes. Reheat the sauce. Spread the sauce on a plate and put the fish on top.
Baby Cabbage Colcannon
Ingredients
- 2 Lb Peeled and cubed Yukon Gold Potato (may substitute other varieties of potato)
- 1/2 Cup Cream
- 1 Stick Unsalted Butter
- Oil for Cooking
- Salt and Pepper to taste
- 2 Cups Thin Sliced Sweet Onions
- 2 Cups Shaved Brussel Sprouts
Instructions
- Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender.
- Heat a little oil in a saute pan over medium high heat. Cook the onions, stirring occasionally until very tender and caramelized. Then, add in the brussels.
- Drain the potatoes. mash by hand or in a mixer with whip attachment. When smooth, add in the butter and cream. Mix until smooth. Add in the onion and cabbage. Season and serve hot. Reheat if necessary.
Roasted Irish Flag Vegetables
Ingredients
- 1/2 Lb Brussel Sprouts
- 1/2 Lb Carrots
- 1/2 Lb Romescu
- olive oil for cooking
- Salt and Pepper to taste
Instructions
- preheat oven to 400
- Prep the vegetables: Trim the brussels and cut in 1/2. Peel the carrots, Split lengthwise, and cut at a steep angle to make long pointed sticks. Cut the romescu into florets about an inch to an inch and a half.
- Toss each of the vegetables separately in oil, salt, and pepper. Spread out evenly on sprayed sheet pans.
- bake for about 10 minutes until slightly browned on the edges. They should be al dente with their colors still somewhat intact. Serve immediately.
For you traditional Boston Irish types:
Of course, if you still want the corned beef and cabbage. We can do that too. But, I like to take a slightly different approach. Instead of boiling it, try roasting. You can serve the colcannon and veggies with it. I find that the flavor is much better than boiled. And, we treat it like a barbecue, adding a skim coat of Dijon and barbecue spice. This makes for a unique flavor sensation and a more pleasurable experience.
Dijon Roasted Corned Beef
Ingredients
- 3 Lb Corned Beef, raw
- 2 to 3 Tbsp Dijon Mustard
- 1/3 Cup Barbecue Spice mix: Brown Sugar, mustard powder, onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, a dash of cayenne, and black pepper
- 2 Cups Onions, carrots and celery (trimmings)
- 12 oz dark ale or stout
- 1 to 2 cups Water
Instructions
- Rough chop the vegetables. Set aside.
- Spray a sheet pan with pan spray. Drain the corned beef of extra liquid. Spread a thin layer of Dijon mustard on the top of the corned beef. Top this with the barbecue spice. Let it marinate for about an hour so the flavors sink in.
- preheat the oven to 450.
- Put the beef in the oven at 450 for 15 minutes. Then, cut the temperature back to 275. Roast for an hour uncovered to get some color on it. Then, Spray a sheet of aluminum with pan spray and cover the meat. Cook for another hour and a half to 2 hours. Then, remove the foil. Place the vegetables in the pan alongside and/or under the beef, and, cook another half hour. Add The beer. Cook for about another 20 minutes until the beer starts to soak up the flavor on the pan and dissipate..
- The beef should be done at this point. Check to make sure it is tender. It should almost pull apart. Take it out of the pan; and, allow it to rest about 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer the liquid and vegetables to a pot. Add water to the roasting pan and scrape the bottom to release all that flavor (this is known as de-glazing the pan). You may need to repeat this step to get all the flavor up. Transfer this to the pot. Bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce the liquid by about 1/4 to intensify the flavor. Check the flavor. If too salty, add more water or beef broth.
- Slice the beef, against the grain into thin slices. Serve hot with the Jus poured over the top.